This Umami-Rich Pasta is Alive with Sourdough Starter

Courtesy of Green Olive Media
By Abbe Baker Posted July 10, 2015

When life hands you sourdough starter, make pasta. That’s what chefs Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan (F&W’s 2014 People’s BNC)  of [ONE] Restaurant in Chapel Hill thought, anyway.

When life hands you sourdough starter, make pasta. That’s what chefs Kim Floresca and Daniel Ryan (F&W’s 2014 People’s BNC)  of [ONE] Restaurant in Chapel Hill thought, anyway. The chefs have long cultivated sourdough for the restaurant’s bread program, but inspiration struck a year ago to incorporate it into pasta. “It makes perfect sense," says Floresca. "Both are essentially comprised of the same thing." After some experimentation, they came up with a recipe that resulted in the perfect level of tang

The two chefs turned their invention into a creamy, umami-rich pasta dish with an unusual level of complexity. Here's the breakdown:

1. Coda di turchialini pasta: Nestled inside are large curds of cottage cheese and locally-foraged, braised lily bulb shoots (which taste like mild scallions). As for the shape: Floresca and Ryan were crimping the pasta so it would hold sauce, and they noticed the result's similarity to a turkey's fanned-out feathers. Hence, turkey tail pasta or coda di turchialini.

2. Sweetbread nuggets: After brining, the chefs cook sweetbreads sous vide. They then cut them into nuggets, toss them in sweet potato starch and double-fry for an extra-crispy exterior. "It makes them crunchy but soft and supple in the center," says Floresca. The nuggets get tossed in lemon juice and veal demi-glace before serving.

3. Morel cream sauce: It's actually a pan sauce, made by deglazing sautéed morels with cream. "It's a quick, earthy sauce for this delicate dish," says Floresca.

4. Garnish of tiny red bud and arugula flowers: "They arugula flowers have great freshness," says Floresca.

Related: MoPho's Incredible Spicy-Sweet Clams are South by Southeast Asia
The Big Ideas Packed Into The Catbird Seat's Little Lemon Cake
The Magical Bread Course at Trentina in Cleveland

The Dish
Receive delicious recipes and smart wine advice 4x per week in this e-newsletter.
The Wine List Weekly pairing plus best bottles to buy.
F&W Daily One sensational dish served fresh every day.

Sponsored Stories

powered by ZergNet