Two Good Things To Ingest

By Ray Isle Posted November 06, 2007

Thing #1:

2001 Pierre Sparr Riesling Grand Cru Schoenenburg ($35, give or take) This is still available out there in the world, according to wine-searcher.com, and that's a fine thing, because it's terrific Grand Cru Alsace Riesling that's drinking just gorgeously right now. Light petrol aromas mingle with floral and lime skin scents, then open into a Riesling with tremendous depth of flavor—lime and tangerine zest notes, peppery spice, graceful texture, and a long finish. Quite old vines; minimum of 40 years on limestone, chalk and clay soils near Riquewihr.

Thing #2:

Marco Canora's Tuna Carbonara at Insieme, in Manhattan: a fragrant tangle of perfectly cooked spaghettini, tuna bottarga shavings, micro-dice of salty, intense tuna bacon, and a little fresh parsley. I'm always impressed with the pastas at Insieme—somehow Canora manages to instill tremendous flavor into what seem (and often really are) very simple dishes. This particular pasta is that kind of clever turn on a classic that makes you think, you know, why didn't someone come up with this before? I'm not sure if it's always on the menu, but nab it if it is.

And you know how these things go: Thing #1 + Thing #2? A sum much greater than the parts, as far as my tastebuds were concerned. Or else a Dr. Seuss story. Your call on that one.

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