Another day, another tasting. The fun never stops around these parts. In any case, here are a couple of new wines from Pascal Jolivet, the Loire producer, that I found particularly impressive (i.e. I loved them both). Both are made with natural yeasts, no sulfur dioxide before fermentation, organic fruit, no filtration, and a year of aging on the lees.
The first, the 2006 Pascal Jolivet Sancerre Blanc Sauvage ($45), from chalky soils, had a crisp minerality and flavors of grapefruit and grapefruit rind, with an earthy density lying underneath everything that gave it a kind of increasing presence in the mouth as I tasted it.