There's an interesting article in this past Sunday's NY Times Style Magazine, T, by food writer/scientist Harold McGee and chef Daniel Patterson of San Francisco's Coi. Essentially the thrust of the story is that terroir—the idea that wines express a specific place—is bunk.
It's a bit of an odd piece. The initial problem is a slippery reduction of terms that happens between the first paragraph and the second; terroir, as the piece initially sets it out, is "the relationship between a wine and the specific place it comes from." By the next paragraph, though, they've reduced that to the idea of "the concept that one can taste rocks and soil in a wine."