Roman's in Brooklyn



Since I’m on a Brooklyn kick this week, let’s talk about Roman’s, the new Fort Greene restaurant from the unstoppable owners of Marlow & Sons. I liked the space when it was the bar Bonita (the New York Times Dining Out editor and drinks expert Pete Wells introduced me to it); I like it even more now. I knew I would as soon as I saw the menu. Handwritten on large-squared graph paper, each of the 10 or so dishes have one-word descriptions: crostini; tagliatelle; skate; salad (the potato croquette is the two-worded exception). The waiter revised the menu before my eyes, crossing off "steak" (they ran out) and "pumpkin" (it was a bad one). A bunch of things were killer good including the tennis-ball-size cheese croquette and the meaty, Bolognese-topped tagliatelle. Best of all: the prices. That steak is only $10—no wonder it sold out—the same price as the totally decent-size serving of hand-made tagliatelle and a lot less expensive then most of my cocktails these days.


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