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I was already excited for the Food & Wine Classic in Aspen (it starts tomorrow!). Then, last night, I got to meet one of the highlights of this year's festival: legendary Italian winemaker Roberto Conterno. He stopped in NYC en route to Aspen with his two sons, Gabriello and Nicolo. The Italians had lunch at Gray's Papaya (left); then Robert Bohr, the brilliant wine director, gave a dinner for them at Cru. Bohr poured more than a dozen ridiculously good wines, including 1975 and 1990 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque, 1970 and 1985 Musigny George Roumier, and 1958 Gaja Barolo and 1958 Gaja Barbaresco. (In case you’re wondering, the Barbaresco was better than the Barolo.) There were no Conterno wines: “That would have been boring for Roberto,” says Bohr. Heading up the table was Warner Music Group CEO Lyor Cohen, who only left the dinner because he had to check in on Jay-Z’s D.O.A. video shoot.