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By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Chef Musings

Marcus Samuelsson’s Top 5 Fantasy Meals

Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania

Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania; Ariadne Van Zandbergen / Alamy

Here, a look inside the current food dreams of the Top Chef Masters winner and Scandinavian Ethiopian super-chef behind Harlem’s Red Rooster.

1. Peruvian Home-Cooking. One place I haven’t been to yet is Peru. It’s on my list of must-see places and when I go there, I have this fantasy that I’ll meet some local who specializes in making the freshest ceviche and he or she would invite me into their home and show me how it’s really done.

2. Charlie Trotter 2.0. One of the greatest restaurants closed last year, and I would love the chance to go eat at Charlie Trotter’s again. I ate there in 1986 and the fact that it wasn’t in New York wowed me. To eat with the same sensibility and taste as I’ve had in France, but the fact that everyone spoke American—I had to be a part of it and I wish I could revisit his place just one more time.

3. Ethiopian Master Class. When I got married, my wife, Maya, had only one concern at our wedding in Ethiopia: Everyone had to have meat. Little did I realize “everyone” meant her whole village. The taste of kitfo is like nothing else. Kitfo is beef tartare, but it’s not chopped up finely like we’re used to having here—we’re talking about two-inch cubes of raw meat, seasoned with spices and clarified butter and served with ayibe, a mild cheese. I would find that man who taught me how to make kitfo and spend the day learning his tricks.

4. High-Tech Food in Harlem. I would love to eat at a place right here in Harlem where they are employing the latest technological innovations to food. This is something scientists are working on for the future, and I know it sounds wild, but I want to eat printed food. Edible ink that prints food into different shapes—so you can make a scallop look like a chicken nugget, or make carrots into the shape of spaghetti. It would change how we look, think and taste food and I think it would help solve some of the issues we are facing in our health crisis.

5. African Street Food Conference. If you have never been to Stone Town in Zanzibar (Tanzania), it’s definitely a one-of-a-kind place. At night, street food vendors pop up and line the quiet beach, one of the best in the world, and I would love to go to a place where all these street vendors could cook their dishes around me. Like in one room. There you will see and smell such a mix of African, Persian and Indian influences, washed down with a freshly squeezed sugarcane beer.

Related: Marcus Samuelsson Recipes

Expert Guide

How to Hire an Awesome Restaurant Staff, by Eddie Huang

© Jasmin Sun
© Jasmin Sun

© Jasmin Sun

For the past three months, infamously outspoken lawyer-turned-comedian-turned-streetwear designer and chef-restaurateur Eddie Huang has been traveling through California and Taiwan as the host of Vice TV’s Fresh Off the Boat web series. Tomorrow, he’ll add “author” to his growing list of careers when his memoir, also titled Fresh Off the Boat, goes on sale nationwide. In it, he offers insight into building a brand through non-traditional hiring requirements. His first Craigslist ad, for example, was titled, "Baohaus Hiring Multi-Tasking Nice People Who Listen to Ghostface." Here, Huang talks to F&W about why hip-hop lovers make great restaurant employees but culinary school grads don't always work out. His hiring tips. »

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Charity

Recap: Dave Chang and Daniel Boulud for Hurricane Sandy

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Dave Chang and Daniel Boulud at their fundraising event to support Hurricane Sandy relief.

Courtesy of Daniel Boulud

The dinners and food-related events to assist Hurricane Sandy victims are still coming fast and furious. Like Eleven Madison Park's benefit to help rebuild the DUMBO restaurant Governor on November 20th. I applaud every single person who has done something in the kitchen or out of it, to help and urge everyone to keep up their great efforts.
 
I don’t know how most of those fund-raising meals came about. But I did hear the backstory of Momofuku and Café Boulud for NYC, the $495-per-person, one-night-only extravaganza which raised thousands of dollars for the Red Cross on November 2nd. And I got this groovy photo. So I wanted to tell the story.
 
The Players: Superchef Daniel Boulud and Momofuku’s Dave Chang. And Ben Leventhal (Eater.com’s co-founder and food-world rainmaker) who had the idea to bring downtown uptown, then got Boulud and Chang together. Along with Café Boulud chef Gavin Kaysen and a bunch of Momofuku staff who wanted to do something, but couldn’t because their downtown restaurants were closed.
 
The Location: The elite Café Boulud (a place where Chang was once a harried line cook).
 
The Complications: Chang was in Toronto during the Hurricane; his return flight was repeatedly cancelled. So the chef jumped in a rental car and drove back to NYC. Stories of speeding tickets and empty gas tanks can’t be confirmed or denied.
 
The Café Boulud & Momofuku Menu:
scallop - chick-pea miso, tamari
matsutake agnolotti - buckwheat, french toast
veal sweetbreads - yuzu kosho, labne, asian pear
foie gras - lychee, pine nut
duck - wild rice, apple, brussels sprouts

To book seats at Eleven Madison Park's dinner in support of Governor restaurant on November 20th, call 212-995-0905.

And for more on Boulud and Chang, and another great photo of the two together, check out the Toronto story in the December issue of F&W (I happened to write it).

Related: Learn about #DineOutNYC
Daniel Boulud Recipes
David Chang Recipes

 

Expert Guide to Mobile Restaurants

NYC's Vendy Superstars Name the Best Food Trucks

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Ceviche at Pestle & Mortar // © Jasmin Sun

Ceviche at Pestle & Mortar // © Jasmin Sun

“Especially in NYC, you don’t always have time to eat at a restaurant—sometimes you just need to grab something and go,” says Will Edwards of Peruvian-inspired Pestle & Mortar, which was among the finalists for best market vendor at the eighth annual Vendy Awards on Saturday.

In an act of meta proportions, F&W asked some of the amazing street food specialists attending the awards event for food truck recommendations of their own. They’re not part of any foodie craze, they’re not Plan B-career types. They’re auténtico, and they’re super delicious. »

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Trendspotting

3 Southeast Asian Restaurants to Try Now

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Chef Grace Nguyen of Asian Box, Palo Alto

© GoodEye Photography

Southeast Asian cuisine is inspiring some of the coolest new restaurants in the U.S. Here are some places to try now. Read more >

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Where to Go Next

Multimedia Meals in Spain

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Multimedia Meals: 41 Degrees

© Javier Milara.

Two Spanish restaurants are partnering with mixed-media artists to bring gallery-worthy experiences into the dining room.

Read more >

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Trendspotting

The Path to Southeast Asia

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The Path to Southeast Asia

© Kate Hazell

In this essay, writer Josh Ozersky tells why US restaurant-goers are trying the real flavors of this region. Read More >

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Restaurants

Brewmasters Unite with Bread Bakers and Musicians

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F&W's July issue takes a look at interesting food collaborations across the country.

Bay Area Food Chain

© Eric Wolfinger, Antonis Achilleos.

Linden Street Brewery + Tartine Bakery (Photo)
This delicious collaboration began with a micro-organism: the sourdough yeast strain used for Tartine Bakery’s bread. That yeast ferments a Linden Street Brewery red ale, which goes into the sausage stew chef Nick Balla makes at Bar Tartine.

Dogfish Head + Hip-Hop
Dogfish Head brewmaster Sam Calagione has made beers inspired by Miles Davis and Pearl Jam. His latest is a beer-cider hybrid, created with Dan the Automator of hip-hop group Deltron 3030 and named after one of their songs: “Positive Contact.” The brew comes as part of a box set, with a vinyl EP and recipes from star chefs. $60; dogfish.com.


Read more from the July issue >

Insider Guide

Danny Bowien's Chinatown

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Danny Bowien in Manhattan's Chinatown; Photo: Jasmin Sun

Danny Bowien in Manhattan's Chinatown; Photo: Jasmin Sun

May has been busy for Mission Chinese Food chef Danny Bowien. He was nominated for a James Beard Foundation Award for rising star chef; previewed dishes like Sichuan peppercorn-coated chicken wings at F&W's offices; and last week, officially opened the NYC outpost of his San Francisco-based restaurant for lunch and dinner.
 
Bowien recently found an apartment near the new restaurant, but he's no newcomer to Chinatown—which he explored while living in the city prior to the launch of his West Coast flagship. He took us on a tour of this fantastic food neighborhood and revealed his favorite places to eat off-duty. "You have to get them to put their handmade pulled noodles on top. That’s the best thing in the whole world.”

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Restaurants

Andrew Zimmern's Grilling Favorite

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Bizarre Foods host and F&W contributing editor Andrew Zimmern discovered mind-blowing Filipino chicken near San Diego.

Andrew Zimmern

© Ethan Hill

National City, CA: Tita’s Kitchenette

“Food from the Philippines has not caught on in the US with the same fervor as other South Asian cuisines. But it’s starting to, thanks to large expat communities in towns like National City, just outside San Diego. It’s home to Tita’s Kitchenette, a point-and-order cafeteria owned by the same family for 20-plus years. At any one time there are two dozen dishes available. You meander down the line, tray in hand. Remember back in grade school? Here, the lunch ladies are Filipino grandmas, and everything they cook is exquisite—the sweet potato-shrimp fritters are as good as any I have ever tasted outside of the Philippines. But the grilled meats are the best. Golf ball-size nubbins of chicken and pork are marinated in a soy-lemon-pineapple bath, then grilled in small batches so that nothing sits for longer than a few minutes. They’re ethereal: treacly and tart, tangy and smoky. Tita’s opens at 6 a.m., and lunch is available early for people who need to grab something on their way to work.” 2720 E. Plaza Blvd. Ste. E; 619-472-5801.

Check Out F&W's Exlusive Series: Andrew Zimmern's Kitchen Adventures

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