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This has been a big week for meat in New York City. The New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni took a look at just how much pork is on the menu at Irving Mill (a lot), and asked chef Ryan Skeen “to give the pig a rest.” That was after two of the city's best restaurants hosted dinners prepared by the dean of nose-to-tail eating, Fergus Henderson of St. John in London. Sunday night was the Spotted Pig’s second annual crazy-fun, crazy-delicious FergusStock. Dishes like the pressed pig’s ears drew diners like Top Chef/restaurateur Tom Colicchio and Momofuku’s David Chang. Henderson and his sous-chef (and Spotted Pig chef) April Bloomfield went through 23 pig heads (that’s 46 servings of the pot-roasted half pig’s head) before they sold out at 10 pm.
I’m not going to do the whole-animal math here (especially because I'm still waiting on pig tail numbers from Momofuku), but that’s a lot of pork. Now that Henderson has left town, I’m going to follow Bruni’s advice and give the pig (and cow, and rabbit and lamb) a rest. Which means for me, just the sheep’s milk ricotta gnudi at the Pig, the pickle jar at Noodle Bar and the kampachi crudo at Irving Mill. Oh wait, that has chorizo on it.