Eighties Revival Special Part 3: Gordon Gekko, the Wall Street financial villain who symbolized the decadence of the Eighties, is back: Director Oliver Stone has just started filming Wall Street 2. Relive Gekko’s excess with luxe hors d’oeuvres like pancetta-wrapped mussels, goat cheese-stuffed mushrooms, and deeply savory prosciutto-fontina pinwheels (pictured).
Eighties Revival Special Part 2: The Eighties might have brought about some questionable food trends (like confusing fusion), but some dishes have stood the test of time. Here, new renditions of popular Eighties dishes like pan-roasted salmon panzanella (bread salad) (pictured), sun-dried-tomato and pesto risotto, and roasted redfish flavored with garlic, parsley and lemon—a simplified, modernized take on the then-ubiquitous blackened redfish.
Celebrate the remake of 1980’s iconic arts-school film Fame, opening tomorrow, with dishes by iconic Eighties chefs like Wolfgang Puck’s grilled steaks with sweet-spicy hoisin-ginger sauce (pictured); Johanne Killeen and George Germon’s tangy pasta with shredded zucchini, yogurt and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese; and Jeremiah Tower’s vegetable ragout with fresh herbs. Stay tuned for more dishes that celebrate the Eighties later today and tomorrow.
More Dishes by Legendary Chefs
- 10 dishes by F&W’s Hall of Fame Best New Chefs like Suzanne Goin’s mustard-crusted lamb, Shea Gallante’s meat loaf with red wine glaze, and Nancy Silverton’s dulce de leche ice cream pie
Retained-heat cooking has been around for ages, but I just discovered the idea by accident. Last Sunday, my son had a soccer game that took us out of the house from 3:45 until 6 p.m.—prime cooking hours. I had a Parmesan rind on hand, so I decided to make this hearty minestrone from F&W's Marcia Kiesel. By 3 p.m., though, I realized it wouldn't finish cooking before I had to leave for the game. Then I thought of actor and environmental activist Ed Begley, Jr., who encourages low-energy cooking and has just published the book Ed Begley, Jr.'s Guide to Sustainable Living. Why couldn't I just turn off the stove and let everything cook on retained heat? I added everything but the green beans to the minestrone and brought it to a boil, then turned off the gas and left the pot covered on the stove. I biked home at halftime to add the green beans (and brought the soup to a boil again), then returned to the game. When the whole family came home, the minestrone was ready to serve.
In the prime upper-right-hand quadrant of New York
magazine's always awesome Approval Matrix
this week: A super-adorable do-it-yourself lunch bag from Design*Sponge
. Full details of the project, including a template and easy-to-follow instructions, can be found here
. Here, F&W provides 10 great ideas on how to fill it
, including Indian pulled-chicken sandwiches
, meat loaf club sandwiches
and nutty apple pie bars
In our October issue
, we preview new baking books out this fall that celebrate easy American desserts
. Here, we offer 10 new ideas for the all-American apple pie
, like a double-crust version
, flaky apple crostatas
(pictured), and crispy apple dumplings
made with frozen puff-pastry sheets. More Excellent Desserts: 10 superb American desserts
, like minty baked Alaska
and red velvet cake
with caramel-coated pecans
Frank Bruni, the former New York Times restaurant critic, has clear memories of his favorite dessert as a six-year-old. He describes it in his memoir, Born Round: “As the chocolate melted in a saucepan in the galley kitchen, it perfumed the entire first floor of our Cape Cod in northern White Plains. Mom made chocolate sauce every Sunday night, as a special weekend treat, and Mark and Harry and I got to eat our bowls of ice cream (three scoops each) in front of the TV while watching Mutual of Omaha's Wild Kingdom. Sundays were for sundaes and lion kills in the Serengeti." When he was young, Bruni always ate this impossibly chocolaty sauce with vanilla ice cream; as he got older, he’d take advantage of the multiple flavors in the freezer. “I’d put it over chocolate: something about chocolate over chocolate showed extra emphatic decadence,” he said in an interview. “I was always pushing the decadence boundary.” Bruni shares the recipe exclusively with Food & Wine here.
Frank Bruni, in the back, with more Bruni family members
“You had to have a lot of meat going on in there.” That's how Frank Bruni
, the former New York Times
restaurant critic, writes about the sauce he grew up with in his new memoir, Born Round
. “It was 1957; my parents had just been married and were living in San Diego, where my father, then a junior officer in the Navy, was stationed. The first time he shipped out for several months, my mother decided she wanted to surprise him when he got home by making pasta with Grandma's style of gravy. So she wrote Grandma and asked her for the recipe." What the Brunis and many southern Italians call gravy, most people would describe as tomato sauce, with myriad cuts of beef and pork—including cheesy, herbed meatballs, sweet sausages and seared pork loin—all of which are simmered in the sauce until they’re wonderfully tender. Bruni shares the recipe exclusively with Food & Wine
Frank Bruni and his grandmother at graduation
In Born Round
(it's one of Amazon's recommended books for August
!) former New York Times
restaurant critic Frank Bruni gorgeously describes his grandmother’s signature dish, a casserole made with many alternating layers of penne and thinly sliced fried eggplant—pasta meets eggplant Parmesan. As he writes, “The eggplant was the tough part, the messy part, especially if you were making it for dozens of people, and Grandma was always making that much.” It wasn’t his favorite dish growing up—only later in life did he come to love the silky, crisp-fried eggplant rounds mixed with pasta and tossed with tomato sauce and salty pecorino cheese. But that wasn’t a problem: “At a Bruni family gathering, you could edit out a dish and there were still plenty of choices.” Plus it was a favorite of his father’s, so Bruni knew it would stick around. As he recently told Food & Wine
, “The meat dish could change, but once there was an established pasta dish, that was sacrosanct.” Bruni shares the recipe exclusively with F&W