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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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F&W Book Club

How to Make Vegetable Lasagna for Every Season

Lasagna

The Hudson Valley farmer and caterer Liz Neumark, of Katchkie Farms and Great Performances, also runs The Sylvia Center, a nonprofit in upstate New York that educates kids about real food. Her new cookbook, Sylvia’s Table, features easy-to-follow recipes from food world friends like F&W’s Dana Cowin, who shared her daughter’s recipe for chicken soup. Here, Neumark teases one of her most flexible recipes: Vegetable Lasagna. Read more »

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Blogger Spotlight

Easy Meals from a Recipe Goddess

Over nearly 18 years in the F&W Test Kitchen, former senior editor Grace Parisi created more than 1400 recipes including reader favorites like grilled eggplant parmesan and her perfect herb-and-lemon roasted chicken. Grace's dishes have been widely adored because they're delicious, but also because they often incorporate just the right twist to make a simple recipe really great (like baking a whole stack of pancakes at once as one fluffy cake). It's no surprise that she's now doing the same thing on her blog, Tales of a Recipe Goddess, which she's writing while working on a new memoir-style cookbook. Her recent take on shakshuka is not to be missed.

 

Related: All of Grace Parisi's Recipes
Grace's Weeknight Dinner Party Menu
Grace's Easy Holiday Brunch

 

 

F&W Exclusive

A Time-Traveling Food Festival Comes to Brooklyn

What’s French for DeLorean? This weekend’s Le Grand Fooding (hosted by Paris-based indie mag Le Fooding) explores the theme of time travel through food. The event, called Time Mach’Inn, is sold-out but we have an exclusive recipe from participating chefs Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo, of Brooklyn’s Frankies Spuntino, Prime Meats and the Res, where everything will go down on Friday and Saturday.

The menu for each night makes stops in three distinct cooking eras: fusion (1991-1999), bistronomy (1998-2007) and the farm-to-table movement (2008-present). The Franks will take on the last category with a sweet-savory dessert, dubbed Tomato and Honey. Here, the recipe, which features a tomato granite over decadent ricotta semifreddo. It’s further garnished with a simple tomato marmalade, which by itself would be great on cheese and crusty bread.

Tomato and Honey
Makes 8-10 servings

Tomato Granite
2 pounds tomatoes
1 ounce Champagne vinegar
4 ounces sugar
1 cup cold water
½ bunch of basil

Deseed and juice the tomatoes. Make a gastrique from the vinegar and sugar. Puree the rest of the ingredients, transfer to a cheesecloth-lined strainer or piece of hung cheesecloth and add the gastrique, drain for 12 hours. Put the liquid and half of the pulp into a pan and place in the freezer; stir every 20 minutes until frozen.

Tomato Marmalade
10 tomatoes, cut in half and seeded
2 quarts simple syrup

Place cut tomatoes skin side up in a shallow sauce pot then pour the syrup over; it should come up ¾ of the way up the tomatoes. Cook in a preheated 350° oven for one hour or until the tomatoes cook through. Remove the skins while still hot (they should remove easily). Strain the tomatoes and coarsely chop. Pour a little syrup into the tomatoes to loosen the mixture.

Ricotta Semifreddo
½ cup sugar

¼ cup milk

¼ cup honey
2 teaspoons orange zest

1½ teaspoons vanilla extract


⅛ teaspoon salt

3 ounces cream cheese

16 ounces ricotta

8 ounces heavy cream
3 tablespoons chilled Sicilian honey
, for garnish
Small basil leaves, for garnish

Line a shallow half-sized pan with plastic wrap. In a blender combine the sugar, milk, ¼ cup of honey, orange zest, vanilla, salt, cream cheese and ricotta. Pour into a bowl.

Whip cream to stiff peaks. Fold in ¼ cup of whipped cream into ricotta mix. Fold in remaining whipped cream. Pour into mold, and freeze up to eight hours before serving.

To serve, once the semifreddo is frozen, whip the mixture and place it in a piping bag. Pipe some of the mixture into the bottom of a 5-ounce paper soufflé cup. Scoop out some of the granite and place on top. Garnish with tomato marmalade and drizzle with some Sicilian honey. Finish with the small basil leaves.

Recipe courtesy of Frank Falcinelli and Frank Castronovo.


Related: More Le Fooding Coverage
Stunning Dessert Recipes
Gorgeous Tomato Recipes

F&W Book Club

Bountiful's Rebellious Kale and Chicken Egg Rolls

Here, F&W Digital Food Award winners Diane Cu and Todd Porter of White on Rice Couple, preview their first cookbook, Bountiful, which drops on October 15. Read more >

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Most Wanted Recipes

Daniel Boulud's Scallop Rosettes with Avocado

Scallop Rosettes with Avocado and Creamed Tandoori Chayote

Photo © Con Poulos

To celebrate the 25th anniversary of F&W’s Best New Chef awards, one of our biggest stars shares one of his most requested recipes.

Daniel Boulud was named a Best New Chef 1988 at Manhattan’s Le Cirque. 
He now has more than a dozen restaurants around the world, including his flagship, Daniel, in Manhattan.

As a young chef in France, Daniel Boulud worked for luminaries like Georges Blanc and Roger Vergé, who demanded superb ingredients. But 
it wasn’t until he arrived in the US that Boulud discovered truly amazing scallops. “I was blown away by the delicate, sweet flavor of the ones from Maine,” says the chef, who is celebrating the 20th anniversary of his New York City flagship, Daniel, this year. He features them in excellent dishes like “black tie” scallops, layered with truffles and baked in puff pastry. Even more popular is this recipe. Boulud quickly cooks scallop slices, then serves them with a rich, tangy avocado-tomatillo sauce and Indian-spiced hearts of palm (we substitute chayote, which is easier to find, and cherry peppers for the Fresnos that Boulud pickles).

Related: More Daniel Boulud Recipes
Daniel Boulud's Chef Network
Fish & Seafood Recipes

Most Wanted Recipes

April Bloomfield's Creamy Caesar Salad with Torn Croutons

April Bloomfield's Creamy Caesar Salad with Torn Croutons

Photo © Con Poulos

To celebrate the 25th anniversary of F&W’s Best New Chef awards, one of our biggest stars shares one of her most requested recipes.

April Bloomfield, a Best New Chef 2007 at the Spotted Pig, is now also the chef and a co-owner of the John Dory and the Breslin, all in Manhattan. Later this year, she will open Tosca in San Francisco.

At the Spotted Pig, April Bloomfield’s NYC gastropub, the Caesar salad is so popular that a couple actually left the restaurant when they discovered she’d briefly taken it off the menu. She’s been perfecting the recipe— which involves an especially tangy and garlicky dressing, large torn croutons and plenty of grated Parmesan—since she was an 18-year-old line cook at Kensington Place in London. “It’s the first salad I didn’t find boring,” she says. “It has such great texture and a ‘more-ish’ quality; you want to keep eating it.” The dish has evolved over time: “It used to have crushed white pepper; I did away with that.” Now she insists that all the ingredients, and even the bowl, be chilled. “It’s also important to eat this salad with your fingers, if possible,” she adds, “because it’s fun and naughty.” SEE RECIPE »

Related: Caesar Salad Recipes
April Bloomfield's First Trip to France
Amazing Salad Dressing Recipes

Grace in the Kitchen

Fast Southern Italian: The 45-Minute Nonna

Grace Parisi in the Kitchen

Photo © John Kernick

F&W’s Grace Parisi reinvents her Calabrian grandmother’s favorite recipes so they’re lighter and speedier.

Creating recipes that hit all the high points of southern Italian cooking is a no-brainer for me—one set of my grandparents came to this country from Palermo, the other from Messina and a town in Calabria. My maternal grandfather was a baker, pizzaiolo and restaurateur, and my paternal grandmother (my namesake) was an amazing home cook who taught me that not every southern Italian dish comes with a red sauce. My recipes here are a tribute to her. Southern Italians love their raisins, pine nuts and capers, all of which I mix into meatballs simmered in a sweet-and-sour braising sauce: agrodolce. Our beloved raisins and capers appear again with stewed peppers in a luscious side dish, peperonata, that I serve with grilled baby lamb chops. Aside from the chops, which may have been a bit fancy for my grandma, I think everything here would have been quite at home on her table.

Recipes

Grilled Eggplant Parmesan This grilled-vegetable version of eggplant Parmesan, like the one Grace Parisi's Calabrian grandmother used to make, is much lighter than the fried kind.

Grilled Lamb Chops with Peperonata A hearty mix of stewed peppers, onions, raisins and anchovies makes this peperonata more of a side dish than a condiment.

Agrodolce Meatballs Even in southern Italy, not every meatball is drenched in tomato sauce. These are cooked in a sweet-and-tart mixture of balsamic vinegar and chicken broth.

Oil-Poached Tuna with Fennel and Orange In this clever one-pot dish, Grace Parisi poaches fennel, shallots and orange zest in extra-virgin olive oil. She then cooks a tuna steak in that oil, making the fish incredibly moist and flavorful.

Related: More Fast Recipes from Grace
Fast Italian Recipes
Italian-American Classics

Supermarket Sleuth

If You Like Lamb Shanks, Try Lamb Shoulder Chops

© Tina Rupp

In this succulent recipe, lamb shoulder is braised in Syrah with kalamata
olives and dried sour cherries that have been soaked in red wine. The unusual
combination makes the sauce deliciously sweet and savory. © Tina Rupp

F&W food editors apply their incredible cooking knowledge to explaining what to do with a variety of interesting ingredients.

Lamb shanks find themselves all over restaurant menus this time of year. Cooked low and slow, the luscious meat pulls effortlessly from the bone. When I’m craving something meaty and warming, I’ve recently turned to lamb shoulder chops, because they’re often even less expensive than shanks. Good butcher shops almost always have lamb shoulder and I’ve started to see it around supermarkets as well. The entire thing can be cooked whole—like in this Syrah-Braised Lamb Shoulder—but 1-inch thick chops will braise in a fraction of the time and they can even be grilled if you don’t mind a little bit of chew. When you can, buy the chops with the round bones in the center. They’re occasionally more expensive but they come with a little bonus: luscious marrow to flavor your sauce or spread on toast.

Related: More Delicious Lamb Recipes
Fast Lamb Chop Recipes
Wine Pairings for Lamb

Most Wanted Recipe

Marc Vetri's Spinach Gnocchi with Shaved Ricotta Salata

Marc Vetri's Spinach Gnocchi with Shaved Ricotta Salata

Photo © Johnny Miller

To celebrate the 25th anniversary of F&W’s Best New Chef awards, one of our biggest stars shares one of his most requested recipes.

Marc Vetri was named an F&W Best New Chef 1999 at Vetri Ristorante in Philadelphia. His restaurant empire now includes Amis Trattoria, Osteria and Alla Spina.

Carrot gnocchi. Squash gnocchi. Beet gnocchi. Eating in restaurants around Italy in the mid 1990s, Marc Vetri discovered these vegetable-based versions of one of his favorite pastas. They inspired him to create a recipe for spinach gnocchi using eggs, bread crumbs, Grana Padano cheese and a little flour; they’re more intensely flavorful than the traditional ricotta kind. Vetri finishes the dish with brown butter and ricotta salata shavings. The gnocchi have been on Vetri Ristorante’s menu since the place opened in 1998, and the only thing that’s changed is the size. “We first made one that looked like a big spinach meatball,” says Vetri. “But guests thought the other pastas were small in comparison. Since then, we’ve served the gnocchi in all sizes, from three large ones to 12 very small ones.” SEE RECIPE »

Related: Pasta Now
12 Spring Pasta Recipes

Grace in the Kitchen

Wine Braised Chicken with Parsnips

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© Lucy Schaeffer

In this easy one-pot braise, you get the best possible combination:
crisp-skinned chicken and a luscious wine sauce.
© Lucy Schaeffer

Food & Wine's senior recipe developer, Grace Parisi, is a Test Kitchen superstar. In this series, she shares some of her favorite recipes to make right now.

One of the great perks of working at Food & Wine is that my kitchen is conveniently located about 15 feet from the wine tasting room. When Ray Isle and Megan Krigbaum, our wine gurus, have finished tasting a few wines, they often give us the nearly full bottles to cook with (uh, yeah, cook).

In true quid pro quo fashion, they eat what we produce and we drink what they discard (which is fine by me). Everybody’s happy! This quickly braised chicken dish calls for a bold, fruity white wine with a nice balance of sweetness and acidity, which is why a California Chardonnay, not too oaky, works extremely well. The acidity mellows the buttery richness of the chicken while toning down some of the sweetness of the parsnips. The recipe serves 4—in my case, my husband and I and our two kids, which works out nicely since it calls for an entire cup of wine, leaving just enough for my husband and I to enjoy with the meal. SEE RECIPE »

Related: More Braising Recipes
Chicken Thigh Recipes
Amazing Chicken Breast Dishes

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