At this Oregon restaurant takeover, three talented winemakers not only pour their best bottles, they also cook all the food, serve it and bus the tables.
It's a rare day when a gang of winemakers comes into a restaurant, boots the chef out and cooks a five-course meal for 30 people. But maybe, winemaker Maggie Harrison says, that's how a wine dinner ought to be.
Having been to innumerable wine dinners, I can testify that many are less than exciting. The winemaker stands or sits at the head of the table and gives some details about the bottle that's just been poured: It spent 10 months in new oak, came from thus-and-such vineyard, is named after the winemaker's daughter/wife/grandmother/whatever. Next course, next wine. It can be informative, definitely, but not exactly spellbinding.