Peruvian Chicken Revelation

By Ratha Tep Posted June 21, 2007

In their Fall 2006 Preview Guide, New York Magazine called the West Village's Seventh Avenue the new Tenth Avenue (a.k.a Restaurant-Row-of-the-Moment). A few more places have popped up on the stretch since: Ostia, Tasca, Central Kitchen (now "regrouping"), and Birdbath bakery. There's also 6-month old Pardo's, the first stateside branch of an over 20-year-old Lima-based chain that bills itself as the "No. 1 Peruvian Rotisserie Chicken." Since it's getting good buzz on (it even makes a cameo in a debate over who sells the city's best fried chicken), I decided to pop in last night. While my side of stew-cooked canario beans with bacon was pretty bland—I'm a sucker for Bush's Original baked beans—Pardo's rotisserie chicken, marinated with 14 "secret" ingredients before being cooked on a gas-fueled rotisserie, manages to stay superbly moist, with a deliciously salty skin that's wondrously crackly. Plus, my half-chicken order was under ten bucks. That warrants a "No. 1 West Village Rotisserie Chicken" in my book.



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