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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Andrew Zimmern's Kitchen Adventures

A Perfect French Onion Tart

Pissaladière

Andrew Zimmern shares his recipe for pissaladière.

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Blogger Spotlight

This Sweets-Obsessed Blogger Writes Amazing Dairy-Free Recipes

After one too many daydreams about pastries blogger Kristin Rosenau quit graduate school to focus more on flour and sugar.

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Expert Guide

5 Tips for Baking with Coconut Flour

5 Tips for Baking with Coconut Flour

Coconut flour is mild enough to use in fluffy white cake, and a lifesaver when it comes to thickening cookies that spread too thin.

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Desserts

Meet Umber Ahmad, Tom Colicchio's Pastry Protégé

Meet Umber Ahmad, Tom Colicchio's Pastry Protégé

This brilliant amateur baker is about to go pro—with help from one of America's top talent spotters, chef Tom Colicchio.

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Make This Now

7 Gooey, Buttery Breakfast Pastries to Make This Weekend

Start the weekend with something sweet. Here, seven delicious treats that won't disappoint.

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Chef Intel

Dominique Ansel: The Leading Light of Pastry

Dominique Ansel: The Leading Light of Pastry

Alex Halberstadt investigates the magical allure of Cronuts™ and their now-famous inventor.

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F&W Exclusive

Meadowood's New Pastry Chef

Pastry chef Matthew Tinder. Photo © Sara Davis.

We love to hear great news from the pastry world. Today, we did. The Restaurant at Meadowood in Napa is bringing in Matthew Tinder, who worked at another great Bay Area restaurant, Coi, as its first pastry chef in almost three years.

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Unsifted

A Pastry Chef's Ode to Paris

Belinda Leong

Photo © Leela Cyd

Belinda Leong of San Francisco’s new B. Patisserie shares simple recipes that re-create her life in France.

Pastry chef Belinda Leong is known for her pedigree (Gary Danko, Manresa, Noma, Pierre Hermé) and for her kouign amann—a buttery, caramelized pastry from France’s Brittany region that resembles a puck-shaped croissant. Now that she’s opened B. Patisserie in San Francisco, customers have a new place to get their kouign amann fix. But Leong also uses her formidable technique to reinvent homespun desserts, such as a salt-flecked crémeux that’s like an intense chocolate pudding. Recipes like these are French in style, but American in spirit. “I want to re-create the life I had in Paris, when I worked at Pierre Hermé, and bring it back here,” Leong says.

Recipes

Cherry Clafoutis
“In France, there’s almond flour in everything—except clafoutis,” Leong says about the fruit dessert baked in batter. Bucking tradition, she includes the flour in her clafoutis to add custardy texture.

Bittersweet-Chocolate Crémeux
Crémeux (French for “creamy”) is a dense, soft, classic pudding that’s the new darling of many American pastry chefs. Leong gives her super-chocolaty version a salty edge.

Vanilla Ice Cream with Brown Butter Crumble
Brown butter, made by warming unsalted butter in a skillet until it is deeply golden, adds a wonderful nutty flavor to a chunky, streusel-like crumble. Sprinkle it on vanilla ice cream with chocolate and caramel sauces for outrageously good sundaes.

Lemon and Fresh Sorrel Sherbet
Leong started to incorporate wild greens and herbs into her desserts in 2009, during a foraging internship at the renowned Noma restaurant in Copenhagen. When sorrel’s in season, she uses the tart, lemony green to flavor her tangy sherbet, but mint, thyme and basil are also terrific.

Related:
Best New Pastry Chefs 2013
Beautiful Art-Inspired Desserts
French Dessert Recipes
San Francisco Travel

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Already looking forward to next year (June 19-21, 2015)? Relive your favorite moments from the culinary world's most sensational weekend in the Rocky Mountains.