I've decided that I'm in love with a clone. Specifically, the Rued clone of Chardonnay (yes, that's what it's come to). It's a selection that originally came from a vineyard Warren Dutton planted in Sonoma's Green Valley in 1969, and to my mind it produces some of California's most compelling Chardonnays. A case in point is the 2006 Dutton Goldfield Rued Vineyard Chardonnay ($45, find this wine), which combines spiced pear and tangerine-lime notes in a way that gives it both lusciousness and vibrancy, a kind of savory leesiness that adds depth, and a touch of bitter (in an appealing way) spice on the end. It's impressive Chardonnay, worth the price.
(On a side note, when I went to the Dutton Goldfield site to check my recollection of the Rued clone's origins, I noticed that Dan Goldfield also describes the wine with the words "spiced pear" and "tangerine," among others. This happens less often than one might think; in fact, it's a worthwhile wine-education exercise to line up several different wine critics' descriptions of the same wine side-by-side and take a look at how completely different they are, then taste the wine yourself and see who you agree with.)