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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Recipes

Classic Twist Doughnuts

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Warning: Test Kitchen Tease snapshots may cause cravings, lip-smacking and an unshakeable desire to cook.

Classic Twists Donuts

Each year we test hundreds of cookbooks in the F&W Test Kitchen. This week we mixed, baked and fried our way through the new one from Seattle’s infamous Top Pot: Top Pot Hand-Forged Doughnuts: Secrets and Recipes for the Home Baker, by brothers Mark and Michael Klebeck. The classic twists seen here, with and without glaze, had a deliciously yeasty dough seasoned with a hint of mace and were fried just like your granny used to do it—in a vat of superhot oil. Chronicle Books will release the tome on September 21, but in the meantime, here are some fantastic doughnut recipes (both baked and fried) from the F&W archives.

Farms

Dine Out Irene

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© Dine Out Irene

Hurricane Irene may have been just an inconvenience for a lot of New Yorkers, but for many farmers in upstate New York, New Jersey and Vermont—who supply our local green-markets and restaurants—it has threatened their very livelihood. According to the New York Times, 140,000 acres of farmland in New York state alone were damaged by the storm. GrowNYC, which organizes many of the city's green-markets, estimates that 80 percent of its farmers have been affected.

What can you do to help? On Sunday, September 25, restaurants across New York City will participate in Dine Out Irene, with up to 10 percent of sales going toward helping local farmers. The funds will go to GrowNYC and Just Food, which will then distribute the funds directly to the farmers in need.

So far (and keep checking for updates), the list of restaurants includes: Aldea, A Voce Columbus, Buttermilk Channel, Kefi and Salumeria Rosi. A great meal and helping out our farmers? I'm in!    

Recipes

Introducing the Cup Noodle Museum

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Chicken Dance spotlights a fantastic Food & Wine chicken recipe every day.

classic chicken noodle soup

© Stephanie Foley
classic chicken noodle soup

In 1971, Momofuku Ando invented a food that would change the course of student diets forever: Cup Noodles (a.k.a. Cup O' Noodles until 1993). The second museum dedicated to the Taiwanese-Japanese entrepreneur opens on Saturday, September 17, in Yokohama, Japan, according to the Huffington Post. In addition to showing CG movies about Ando, the Cup Noodle Museum will feature a make-your-own instant-noodle bar. Though we certainly appreciate the product’s just-add-water ease, the results could never compare to homemade chicken noodle soup, such as this classic version by F&W’s Grace Parisi.

Restaurants

Just Food's Let Us Eat Local Benefit

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2010's Let Us Eat Local Event

© Just Food
2010's Let Us Eat Local Event

On September 21, NYC nonprofit Just Food is hosting the fourth annual Let Us Eat Local benefit at the Altman Building on West 18th Street in Manhattan. Accessibility and expense are two of the looming reasons why it's difficult for impoverished communities to get local and sustainable produce, but Just Food helps by launching CSAs, opening new farmers’ markets and developing community gardening programs. The nonprofit even connects soup kitchens and food pantries with small farmers and hosts cooking demonstrations to help spread food education. Like many fall benefits, the cause is worthy, but the $175 ticket also secures tastings from some of the city's best restaurants, including Gramercy Tavern, the Spotted Pig and Jean-Georges Vongerichten's ABC Kitchen. For VIPs, Rouge Tomate sommelier Pascaline Lepeltier will lead a wine-pairing workshop featuring bottles from Long Island and upstate New York vineyards. Tickets are available here.

6 Wine Toys You Don't Need

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You're unlikely to need any wine device not pictured.

© iStock
You're unlikely to need any wine device not pictured.

There's no dearth of wine-related gadgetry, and some of it costs more than really great wine. To enjoy wine, however, all you usually need is a bottle you like, some good glassware and often a corkscrew. That in mind, here are six tempting wine accessories that you, or the wine lover you're shopping for, can probably do without:
 
1. Aerators. These products do the same job as a decanter, or a pitcher, or any container you could transfer your wine into before pouring—but they claim to do it faster, which might not be a good thing. Great wines often evolve in the glass, and aerating them all at once would mean fast-forwarding through that process. (In the case of older bottles, you could skip straight past the point when the wine is actually good.)

2. Bottle Chillers. It's impressive that these machines, which retail for $70 and more, will cool a bottle of wine from room-temp to fridge-temp in six minutes. But a bucket of ice water doesn't take much longer, and most wines shouldn't be served quite that cold anyway.
 
3. De-Aerators. All pumps and gas spritzers try to accomplish one thing: getting air away from your leftover wine—which will, indeed, slow its deterioration. Instead of messing with these devices, just pour the wine into a smaller bottle.
 
4. Elaborate Corkscrews. Most wine pros will tell you that they prefer a simple, standard waiter's corkscrew. A double-hinged model makes it easy to get good leverage.
 
5. Foil Cutters. These cutters trim the foil much too high, where it can interfere with pouring. Instead, use a blade below the bottle's rim. Or, believe it or not, you can remove most capsules by simply pulling them off.
 
6. Wine-Box Cozies. As amusing as it may be to hide certain bottom-shelf supermarket wines under a leopard-print cover, some of today's increasingly tasty boxed wines are arriving in handsome packages, like Wineberry's wooden crate. Try the importer's 2010 Domaine le Garrigon Côtes-du-Rhône.

Related: Gifts for Wine Lovers
Gifts for Cocktail Connoisseurs

 

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