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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Restaurants

Special Food & Wine Tickets for Le Grand Fooding

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© Le Fooding
A Le Fooding Face Off

It’s back: The dates and the menu for the second annual Le Grand Fooding event are set. The two-night food-and-drink extravaganza will take place September 24 and 25 at PS 1 in Long Island City. Food & Wine has a special link to buy advance tickets: legrandfooding.com. (Don't wait; last year they sold out in less than 72 hours.)

Last year, the ingenious French Le Fooding team brought some of Paris’s grooviest chefs—like Inaki Aizpitarte from Le Chateaubriand—into town to cook alongside New Yorkers like Daniel Boulud and David Chang.

This year, the theme is New York vs. San Francisco, inspired by Chang’s now-infamous put-down of the Bay Area: “Every restaurant in San Francisco is just figs on a plate with nothing on it.” The five participating SF chefs have retorts for Chang. And the four NYC chefs joining Chang have retorts back. Among the smack-talking highlights:

James Syhabout (Commis, SF)
: “To keep it simple, best rhymes with West.”

Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone (Torrisi, NY): “When Sinatra said ‘If I can make it there, I’ll make it anywhere,’ he wasn’t talking about San Fran!”

Daniel Patterson (Coi, SF): “David who?”

Dan Barber (Blue Hill, NY): “Looking forward to learning how to wrap a great burrito.”

Meanwhile, Eater has details on Le Fooding’s excellent action-style movie posters, and the Village Voice has all details on the menu.

Restaurants

Rio de Janeiro's Newest Hotels

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© Courtesy Hotel Fasano
Fasano's rooftop pool

With both World Cup and the Olympics coming up for Rio de Janeiro in the next six years, the city is getting ready to host a slew of travelers. Rio's hotel scene runs from large chains to the old guard Copacabana Palace—as well as two relatively new boutique hotels: the Fasano and the Hotel Santa Teresa. The three-year-old Fasano, Bohemian Ipanema's first luxury hotel, is right on the waterfront. It's designed by Philippe Starck, but with a casual, beachy feel, it's more understated than many of his other projects (each guest is given a pair of Brazil's national flip-flop, Havaianas). The food is no afterthought: Fasano Al Mare, a Mediterranean seafood spot, is the work of Luca Gozzani of Michelin three-starred Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence. The year-old Hotel Santa Teresa is located in another artsy neighborhood, the up-and-coming hillside community of Santa Teresa, which is a maze of galleries, charmingly run-down mansions and art studios. The property was a former coffee plantation and houses another ambitious restaurant, the French-Brazilian Térèze, from Frenchman and Alain Ducasse alum Damien Montecer.

Travel

Eat, Pray, Love Escapes

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© Denzil Sequeira
Elsewhere, Goa

With so much hype leading up to last weekend's opening of Eat Pray Love, the film may have already reached its saturation point. Whether you love the book and its film adaptation or not, I can’t think of three more fabulous destinations than Bali, India and Italy. Below, see my picks on great escapes in each. I can’t guarantee Javier Bardem or James Franco run-ins, but all three will deliver incredible food experiences and instant relaxation.

Bali: F&W’s Gail Simmons recently returned from a stay at the Alila Villas Uluwatu, a new superluxe small resort on the southern tip of the island. The young Dutch chef who heads up its restaurant, Warung, reinvents traditional Indonesian food with modern techniques and local ingredients.

Italy: F&W’s executive wine editor Ray Isle just returned from his own epic eating and drinking adventure in and around Rome. You can read about it in the October issue. For now, avoid the city's Eat Pray Love crowds and escape to Tuscany’s stunning new Il Salviatino resort. The restored palazzo is tucked away in the hills of Fiesole. The chef at its restaurant, La Terazza, worked with local grandmothers to develop dishes like ricotta-and-spinach gnudi and pici with bread crumbs.

India:
Earlier this year, I was in India and found my perfect paradise at a dreamy place called Elsewhere on the beach in northern Goa. The scattering of houses and tents are part of Indian fashion photographer Denzil Sequeira’s family property. The location is so remote that it won’t show up on GPS. Highlights included learning how to prepare a Goan feast with Elsewhere’s cooks, riding an elephant at a nearby spice farm and practicing daily yoga on the beach.

Farms

Rio de Janeiro's Markets

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Ipanema's Fishmonger

© Ross Todd

I was in Brazil earlier this week and fell hard for Rio de Janeiro and its feiras, or markets. I spent plenty of time wandering the aisles of Zona Sul, the local supermarket chain, picking up cachaça and cheese-filled pastries, but the best part was the farmers’ markets in Ipanema. The fishmonger's catch was incredibly fresh-smelling and beautifully displayed, with tiger-striped fish and pale pink eels. The fruit was also spilling over counters, the more exotic the better: papayas, coconuts and my new favorite, custard apples, which look like artichokes but are filled with large black seeds and a white, creamy flesh. We took one home and ate it in the morning with granola and yogurt for the perfect tropical treat. Does anyone know of any way to get them stateside?

News

Julia Roberts, Asparagus and Eat Pray Love

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Eat Pray Love's food stylist Susan Spungen turned Rome upsidedown looking for asparagus.

By now, you’ve seen Julia Roberts having a relationship with her pizza in previews for Eat Pray Love. For the film’s stellar food stylist, and frequent F&W contributor, Susan Spungen, that pizza scene was relatively easy—she didn’t have to make it; the Naples pizzeria L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele did that job. Still, Spungen prepared most of the rest of the film’s onscreen food. Her biggest challenge: asparagus. In the movie, Roberts’s character goes shopping at Rome’s Campo de Fiore food market for asparagus for an indulgent lunch for one. In reality, since they were filming in August, Spungen couldn’t find any asparagus at the market. She went all over Rome before she was able to finally locate some. “I literally got the only four bunches of asparagus in all of Rome. They were scraggly and curvy, but they worked.” Well enough that, after shooting the scene, Roberts said to her, “good asparagus.”

For more on what it’s like to style food for movies, opentable.com has a great interview with Spungen.

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