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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Chefs

A New Sustainable Butcher in L.A.

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© Jennifer May
Amelia Posada and Erika Nakamura

In the November issue, our new Trendspotting column touched on the zeitgeist of the macho vegetarian, and writer Julie Powell told us about her experience interning with Josh Applestone, the formerly vegetarian, vegetable-pushing butcher at Fleisher's Grass-Fed & Organic Meats in Kingston, New York. Now, Amelia Posada and Erika Nakamura, two Fleisher's alums (both also former vegetarians) are headed to L.A. to open Lindy  & Grundy. Posada (a former floral designer) and Nakamura (a former chef at Blue Hill at Stone Barns ) will sell locally grown, humanely raised meat and make their own sausages, bacon and charcuterie. There will even offer curbside delivery to customers in a rush. Their shop won't open until late fall, but for now, you can follow their cross-country adventure and the lead-up to the opening on Twitter. Follow Nakamura at @TheButcherette and Posada at @thefemmebutcher.

Restaurants

Why Mario Batali and Jimmy Fallon are Proving David Letterman Wrong

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© Ken Goodman
Jimmy Fallon helps Mario Batali cook and raise money to fight hunger.

As you might have heard, David Letterman recently took shots at food-related television shows. (Letterman was looking at shows like Man vs Food. And honestly, it’s hard to fault an attack on a show that glorifies overeating with the huge problem of hunger in the world.) That’s why this is an excellent time to give a shout-out to all the food professionals and organizations raising so much money to feed hungry people. Here are two of them.

Mario Batali/Mario Batali Foundation – Since launching his charity in 2008, Mario Batali has worked tirelessly to ensure that kids are well fed, and also well cared for. At his latest MBF fundraiser at Del Posto, Batali brought in a few friends—Jimmy Fallon, Anthony Bourdain and Michael Stipe to name three—and raised $200,000 in one night.

Rachael Ray/New York Wine & Food Festival
– When Letterman apologized for his rant, it was to Ray. Good thing, because Ray hosts one of NYWFF’s biggest events, the Burger Bash. And proceeds from the Burger Bash (and all of NYWFF) go to the outstanding Food Bank of New York. Yay, too, for Food & Wine, which sponsors the NYWFF. Estimates are that the festival raised over a million bucks. Sweet.

Travel

London’s Pop-Up Street Food

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© Ratha Tep
Street Kitchen's Mark Jankel and Jun Tanaka

Pop-up dining is having its moment in London: There are new pop-up restaurants and supper clubs, and now there's Street Kitchen, a 14-day pop-up on wheels that debuted last week at Covent Garden for the London Restaurant Festival. Out of their shiny Airstream trailer, Mark Jankel of The Food Initiative and Jun Tanaka of Pearl give British dishes like braised beef with roasted carrots and celeriac mash an extreme locavore spin, using strictly UK ingredients that come directly from farmers and producers (that means no black pepper or olive oil). That local ethos even extends to the cooking: The sublime salmon, from Scourie, Scotland's Loch Duart aquafarm (the only place the French Laundry goes to for its salmon), is delicately smoked with whiskey-barrel chips from a Scottish distillery. Street Kitchen moves to Old Spitalfields Market today, where it will operate through Monday. Potentially in the works for the near future is that pop-up sibling, the roving food truck.

Wine Shops

Dom Pérignon's Tribute to Andy Warhol

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Andy Warhol was a big fan of Dom Pérignon. So much so that he and his friends made a plan to drink it to ring in the new millennium in 2000. In his diary entry from March 8, 1981, he writes: “...the ‘2,000’ people — it’s a club of twenty guys who got together and they're going to buy 2,000 bottles of Dom Pérignon which they will put in a sealed room until the year 2000 and then open it up and drink it and so the running joke is who will be around and who won’t...” The stashed bottles have never been found, nor have the other 19 members of the group been identified. It almost makes you want to go on a scavenger hunt!

Now, in a tribute to the pop-art legend, Dom Pérignon has teamed up with Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design in London for a limited-edition collection of three Andy Warhol–inspired bottles, vintage 2002. The labels, in red, yellow or blue, recall Warhol’s bold use of color and graphics.

The bottles are available today at a suggested retail price of $150, in NYC at Crush Wine & Spirits and Sherry-Lehmann.

Chefs

A Night with Ferran for A Day at El Bulli Screening

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© kate krader
Ferran Adrià with F&W star contributor Anya von Bremzen.

Ferran Adrià was only in New York briefly—I estimate 48 hours—but he still screened the amazing documentary A Day at El Bulli. The profile of the world’s most famous restaurant is directed by Ferran’s brother, Albert Adrià (more on Albert in a second). Here, a few more cool details.

The Film: As the name suggests, A Day at El Bulli includes morning coffee with Adrià, a surprisingly laid-back staff meal, the arrival of the first customers at 7:30 pm (remember, this is Spain), the departure of the last customer at who-knows-what time, and plenty of mind-blowing food all the way through.

The Screening Location
: The just-opening Bar Basque in the Eventi hotel in midtown NYC, which will feature a rotating list of visiting chefs from the Basque region. Another smart feature of the restaurant: a giant projector with the capacity to show films on the wall of an adjacent building.

What Ferran Said At the Reception (in Spanish, via a translator): “This is the first time I’ve seen the film since I announced the closing of El Bulli. Now I know, the spirit must continue. But it’s necessary to have a transformation.” Ferran will announce his exact plans for the new El Bulli at the next Madrid Fusión conference on January 26, 2011. Meanwhile, he’s heavily involved with Albert in a new version of their terrific tapas Barcelona tapas bar, Inopia.

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