My F&W
quick save (...)

Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

RSS
Restaurants

Making a Mess Filming The Dilemma

default-image

© Universal Pictures
Vince Vaugn and Sepia Restaurant Star in The Dilemma.

It’s such a good time for food lovers who also love movies. From Julie & Julia to It’s Complicated, the food on-screen has been the kind that makes you crazy hungry. And now there’s The Dilemma, the new Ron Howard movie that notably features Vince Vaugn making a toast in the Chicago restaurant Sepia (as all the blogs have noted, Sepia plays a restaurant called Sepia). Sepia’s executive chef Andrew Zimmerman, who has a cameo as a line cook reprimanded by chef Jennifer Connelly (“I was smart enough to stand next to her so I wouldn’t get cut from the film” he says), did the food styling for Vaugn’s toast scene at the end of a big meal. There was a learning curve, he reports. He started off preparing food that looked nice. “No,” said the movie prop master. “Make food that looks like people have been at it. And don’t make it taste good or the extras will eat it all.” So Zimmerman put aside his years of training in making food look and taste delicious and instead made a mess with half-eaten chocolate cakes, rivers of crème anglaise and raspberry sauce. “And I threw some melted ice cream in there, too,” he says.

Travel

Kogi Is Going to Sundance

default-image

© Nigel Parry
Roy Choi's Kogi truck will serve late night tacos at Sundance.

Boy do I wish I were a Park City, Utah, restaurant critic. Or a celebrity with a new film to promote right now. Last week we heard Michael Voltaggio would be cooking at the Sundance Film Festival. And now, here come my heros on L.A.'s Kogi taco truck, too. The truck will be at the Lift in Park City for two nights serving its exceptional tacos, like short rib, spicy pork, chicken and tofu. While Voltaggio is cooking breakfast and lunch, Kogi will make sure that all the late-night eaters are covered, too.

Menus

First Look: Niko

default-image

© Laura Maniec
Crispy Tokyo Chicken at Niko.

As a rule, I disapprove of restaurant reviews that come before a place has fully opened its doors. So let’s not call this a review of Niko, the Japanese spot in the former, iconic Honmura An space in New York City’s Soho; after all, it isn’t even open yet. Instead, let’s call out what was great about Niko on the very first night of its soft opening.

Crispy Maine sweet shrimp with Sriracha salt. The shrimp were supercrispy, and that little pile of salt (made with dehydrated Sriracha chile sauce) alongside was genius.

Miso-charred octopus. Every octopus should be properly charred with miso glaze.

Crispy Tokyo chicken. Co-owner Cobi Levy says he’s been eating fried chicken for 21 days straight in search of the ideal crust (thanks, Cobi). He serves his with an elegant ginger dipping sauce (as well as a honey-mustard sauce that I pretended wasn't there).

Local hero Josh DeChellis is back preparing Japanese food (the Sriracha salt is his). A sushi chef fresh from Sushi Yasuda behind the sushi bar. Master sommelier Laura Maniec with a bottle of rose Champagne in her hand. Torrisi’s Mario Carbone at a banquette in the back. Nate Appleman, an F&W Best New Chef 2009 and Chipotle’s new burrito maker, at the sushi bar.

Menus

Raclette Night at Anfora

default-image

Raclette Night at Anfora.

© Anfora
Raclette Night at Anfora.

 

I was a little bummed watching the BCS Football Championship last night. For starters, Oregon State lost in the final minutes of the game to Auburn. Even sadder was that the loss marked the end of Monday night football, at least until next season. Luckily, the team at NYC’s Anfora wine bar has found a way to fill my Monday night void. Last night, Anfora hosted its first Raclette Cheese Night. Each Monday, the wine bar will serve raclette in true Swiss style, with heat lamps for melting and plates of bread, boiled potatoes, pickles and charcuterie for dipping. Sommelier Joe Campanale will be pouring unusual white wines, from producers like Jacques Puffeney, to pair with the cheese. I can’t think of a better way to shake off my post-Monday-night-football blues—and get excited for my upcoming snowboarding trip to Switzerland.

Chefs

Tim Love's New Year's Resolution

default-image

Yesterday, Texan chef Tim Love of the Lonesome Dove and Love Shack and sommelier star Joe Campanale of NYC’s L’Artusi, Dell’anima and Anfora braved New York City’s freezing temperatures and windchill at 8 a.m. to run the New York Road Runner’s Fred Lebow Classic 5-mile race in Central Park with me. I was fairly certain that they’d wimp out due to the cold (or the excess of wine at Ten Bells the night before) but both showed and finished strong. Over post-race refueling (stops included Ess-a-Bagel; Maialino and the Breslin) Love told me that he and his wife had made a new year’s resolution to run 1,000 miles in 2011. They've even worked up a schedule. In order to achieve the goal, they'll need to log 2.8 miles a day.


advertisement
The Dish
Receive delicious recipes and smart wine advice 4x per week in this e-newsletter.
The Wine List Weekly pairing plus best bottles to buy.
F&W Daily One sensational dish served fresh every day.
advertisement

Tune in on Wednesdays at 10PM ET for Top Chef: Boston, the 12th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Already looking forward to next year (June 19-21, 2015)? Relive your favorite moments from the culinary world's most sensational weekend in the Rocky Mountains.