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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Recipes

Jacques Pepin’s Quick-Roasted Chicken

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Chicken Dance spotlights a fantastic Food & Wine chicken recipe every day.

Quick-Roasted Chicken

© Lucy Schaeffer
Quick-Roasted Chicken

We can’t get enough of Jacques Pépin. Whether watching him on television, featuring his recipes in our October issue, reading about his flawless technique in yesterday’s New York Times or cooking through his new book, Essential Pépin, we like seeing the charming French legend everywhere lately. For those who want to experience a bit of Pépin’s genius fast, we suggest his weeknight-friendly Quick-Roasted Chicken with Mustard and Garlic. By splitting the bird, Pépin actually halves traditional cooking time.

Related: More Delicious Recipes from Jacques Pépin
Great Desserts from Jacques Pépin
Fantastic Dishes from the French Masters

Recipes

The Kids Are All Right

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Jimmy Bannos, Jr. and Sr.

© Lisa Predko - Purple Pig
Jimmy Bannos, Jr. and Sr.

F&W's November issue checks in on some of America's most revered food and wine families—not the matriarchs and patriarchs, but the children and grandchildren, who are chefs, winemakers and tastemakers doing incredible things in their own right.

A GREEK TRADITION

Jimmy Bannos, Jr. (left), learned to cook at his father's Cajun restaurant, Heaven on Seven, in Chicago. But at his pork-centric restaurant, The Purple Pig, he looks to the Mediterranean, serving mostly Italian- and Greek-inflected dishes, like this whipped feta that was inspired by his Greek grandmother.

Recipe: Whipped Feta with Cucumbers
The taste of the Mediterranean shines through in this airy feta spread that's served with olive oil–marinated cucumbers.

FATHER-SON LEGACY

Preston Clark of El Paseo in California's Mill Valley learned to cook while working side by side with his late father, the great chef Patrick Clark, at NYC's Tavern on the Green. Here, some Clark trademarks:

Tools: "My father appeared on the original Japanese Iron Chef. He brought me my first supersharp knives from Japan."

Technique: "My dad taught me that the best way to fix a pan sauce gone awry is to add a little water."

Recipe: Crisp Crab Cakes with Chipotle Mayonnaise
"Like my father, I bind crab cakes with white fish. It's more flavorful than bread crumbs."

TEA-BLENDING MASTER

Recipe: Darjeeling Unlimited
Third-generation tea blender Emeric Harney of Harney & Sons created this tea cocktail with drinks technologist Dave Arnold.

Related:
Driven to Cook: Maria and Alexandra Guarnaschelli
Next-Gen California Wines

Recipes

World-Series-Worthy Chicken Quesadillas

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Chicken Dance spotlights a fantastic Food & Wine chicken recipe every day.

Chicken Quesadillas

© Lucy Schaeffer
Chicken Quesadillas

Tonight at 8:05 p.m. ET, the St. Louis Cardinals will face off against the Texas Rangers in the first game of the 2011 World Series. While it should be exciting to watch the wildcard-winning Cardinals take on the dominating Rangers, our favorite part of any sports event is the comfort food. These Chicken Quesadillas with Blue Cheese and Caramelized Onions make a fantastic and unexpected game-day recipe.

Related: Fast Game Day Snacks

Delicious Mexican Recipes

Great Tailgating Recipes

Wine

Spanish Value Wines—Before the Price Spikes

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A vineyard in Spain's RÍas Baixas region.

© Courtesy of Encarna Méndez.
A vineyard in Spain's RÍas Baixas region.

Spain's grape prices are up 15 to 20 percent from last year, Bloomberg reports, suggesting that wines produced in 2011 will be pricier than average. As an easy precaution, you can stock up on value bottles from previous vintages now. Here are five excellent, $15-and-under Spanish wines featured in the new F&W Wine Guide 2012.
 
2010 Luzón Verde ($9)
Aging without oak keeps the bold red-berry flavors in this organic Monastrell center stage—and the price low.
 
2010 Marqués de Cáceres Rioja Rosé ($10)
A hint of sweetness underscores this earthy, crisp rosé.
 
2009 Bodegas Nekeas Vega Sindoa Chardonnay ($14)
Silky baked pear and stone fruit mark this great-value white.
 
2010 Condes de Albarei Albariño ($15)
Its clean, minerally lemon-lime flavors aretangy and brisk.
 
2009 Emilio Moro Finca Resalso Ribera del Duero ($15)
An earthy red with firm tannins, spice and acidity that make it ideal for burgers, lamb or steak.

Related:  Spanish Recipes
More Value Wines

Entertaining

Tailgating 101: What to Drink with Barbecue

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© © James Baigrie
Barbecued Brisket with Burnt Ends

Some time ago, I had the odd honor of being a judge at the Jack Daniels World Championship Invitational Barbecue, one of the bigger meat-fests in the barbecue circuit. I can’t recall who won what, but I vividly recall walking up the stairs to my second-floor motel room, listening to two portly fellows loudly discuss themerits (and drawbacks) of possum and raccoon barbecue. In that context, pairing wine instead of beer with barbecue seems a bit twee, sort of like playing Chopin nocturnes at a Nascar race, but what the heck. What are cliffs for but to fling oneself off of?

Brisket. Being a Texan, my heart believes that real barbecue is made from cow, not pig, despite a lot of Southern evidence to the contrary. Anyway, that’s a battle to be fought by diehards. Ignore them. Drive to Louie Mueller’s in Taylor, TX, order yourself some of their sublimely excellent brisket, and then figure out some way to drink a good Cabernet blend with it. The 2008 Cameron Hughes Lot 249 Alexander Valley Meritage ($12) is a fine choice.

Sausage. On the day that New York’s Hill Country BBQ decided it was a good thing to import sausages up from Kreuz Market in Lockhart, TX, the clouds parted, the sun shone, and all was good upon the land. Seriously. And if one were going to pour a glass ofwine to go with these juicy, sublimely spiced links, I think a Zinfandel—itself a spicy number—would be the answer. The 2009 Bogle Old Vine Zinfandel ($12) is an in-your-face example, in a good way.

Pulled Pork. An excellent counter-argument from the South to this whole Texan beef-business. Good pulled pork (Sweatman’s, in Holly Hill, SC, about 50 minutes outside Charleston, is hard to beat) has a sublime balance of porkiness, juiciness, and smoke thatought to make Pierre Gagnaire wonder if perhaps he picked the wrong cuisine to specialize in. In South Carolina the sauce is mustardy and a bit sweet; in North Carolina, it’s more vinegary. I’d eat both with a dry rosé, though honestly if I did that I’d probably get my butt kicked. Try (if you’re willing to risk it) the fruity 2010 Frog’s Leap La Grenouille Rougante ($14).

Ribs. Frank Zappa, in his little-known but much-loved (ok: by a few freaks) anthem “Muffin Man,” intones this immortal line: “There is not, nor ought there be, anything so exalted on the face of God’s gray earth as that prince of foods…the muffin.” Hm. Let’s change that to ribs, ok? I can think of almost no instance when I wouldn’t trade whatever is on my plate for some truly great bbq ribs, like the ones from Mike Mills’ 17th Street Bar & Grill in Murphysboro, IL. Lots of flavor, lots of juice, and, admit it, lots of fat—if wine is on the table, make it a big, brawny Syrah, like the robust 2008 Cambria Tepusquet Syrah ($19).

Related:Tailgating Recipes

25 Perfect Pork Recipes
Best Burgers in the U.S.
Ultimate Burger Recipes

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