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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Restaurants

Olympic Update: Where the Athletes Eat

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Chad Hedrick, Speed Skating, USA: "Rodney's Oyster House has a laid-back atmosphere with excellent oysters and other seafood." 1228 Hamilton St.; 604-609-0080 or rohvan.com.

Alexa Loo, Snowboarding, Canada: The Richmond, BC, native loves Glowbal  
Grill in Yaletown, known for its decadent lobster grilled cheese  
sandwiches. 1079 Mainland St.; 604-629-3424 or glowbalgrill.com.

Evan Lysacek, Figure Skating, USA: The gold medalist had brunch  
at Yew at the Four Seasons Vancouver before his winning skate. 791  
W. Georgia St.; 604- 689-9333 or fourseasons.com/Vancouver
.

Debbie McCormick, Curling, USA: The U.S. curling team member plans on  
visiting the Cellar Jazz Club, which serves snacks like yam  
frites and spicy edamame. 3611 W. Broadway St.; 604-738-1959 or  
cellarjazz.com.

Shaun White, Snowboarding, USA: The gold medalist has been spotted  
celebrating in Vancouver's Granville Entertainment District at the  
two-story Republic club, which has a towering, backlit bar. 958  
Granville St., 604-669-3266; dhmbars.ca.

Hayley Wickenheiser, Hockey, Canada: The three-time Olympic medalist  
was chosen to deliver the athletes' oath at the 2010 opening ceremony.  
Wickenheiser loves Vij's imaginative Indian dishes, like marinated  
lamb popsicles with cream curry, and Miku's aburi-style  
(lightly torched) sushi. Vij's, 1480 W. 11th Ave.; 604-736-6664 or  
vijs.ca. Miku, #2 – 1055 W. Hastings St.; 604-568-3900 or  
mikurestaurant.com.

Restaurants

David Bouley's New Japanese Obsession

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bouley

© Danielle Falcone
Bouley's Japanese bites on imari porcelain.

 

Last night, star chef David Bouley  turned his fabulous Tribeca test kitchen into a showroom for the latest interpretations of Imari porcelain, a style of porcelain made in the tiny town of Arita in Japan’s Saga prefecture. Young artists and designers like Tsuji Satoshi are making cool new designs inspired by traditional style. Bouley plans to use many of the pieces at his forthcoming Japanese restaurant. And of course, the dishes weren't left empty. Bouley, along with chefs Isao Yamada and Tadao Miakmi (Bouley Upstairs), Noriyuki Sugie and chefs from the Tsuji Culinary Institute of Japan prepared some ridiculously good dishes using wild Japanese ingredients like barafu, a leafy green that looks like it's covered in dew, with a salty taste and great crunch.

Restaurants

Spain’s Chef Aduriz After the Fire

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© Mugaritz
The Mugaritz Piggy Bank Survived the Fire

At F&W we were horrified to hear about the Monday-morning kitchen fire that struck Mugaritz, one of the world’s best restaurants, near San Sebastián in Spain. Luckily, our superstar contributor Anya von Bremzen has been a follower of Mugaritz’s chef-owner, Andoni Luis Aduriz, for years (she featured him in a terrific piece on Spain’s most creative chefs in 2008) and has kept us updated on the situation. According to the chef, Mugaritz will reopen in three to four months. And according to the Spanish paper 20 Minutos, Aduriz has received an overwhelming amount of support: “It’s impossible to imagine the tsunami of solidarity,” he told them. That includes the world’s foremost chef, Ferran Adrià (who told Aduriz that he’s taking the fire personally, as though it had happened to him), and Joan Roca, another of Spain’s elite cooks, who offered “money, all you want.” Aduriz also got calls from all over the world, from artists, politicians, writers, musicians and, of course, fellow chefs. And here’s another nice anecdote from the paper: Rescued from the fire was the restaurant’s staff piggy bank. “It’s all black and full of soot, but the pig is smiling,” said Aduriz.

Restaurants

Olympic Update: Tojo's Olympic Roll

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© Amy Rosen

The New York Times's new dining critic, Sam Sifton, recently likened Vancouver master sushi chef Hidekazu Tojo's cooking to that of Nobu Matsuhisa and the kung-fu style known as “drunken master” (by this he meant that Tojo's casualness disguises great skill). Perched on my bar seat at Tojo's recently, I saw what he meant. For the Olympic roll—his interpretation of the Olympic rings, which he's named the Celebration 2010 roll—Tojo wrapped layers of egg, wild salmon, snapper and spinach around Dungeness crab, pineapple and asparagus. For the blue ring, he prepared a blueberry sauce. Admittedly, it sounds like a kitchen-sink calamity, but it was delicious. Other dishes I loved: West Coast albacore sashimi topped with grated daikon, fresh ginger, purple radish sprouts and green onion, and delicate smoked Canadian sablefish with pine mushrooms and burdock in a warm, umami-packed broth. 1133 West Broadway; 604-872-8050 or tojos.com.

Entertaining

Italian-American Coffee & Cake

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Ed Levine’s review on Serious Eats of NYC's new Torrisi Italian Specialties left me chuckling. To accompany a slideshow of chef-owners Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone’s Italian-American sandwiches, antipasti and desserts, Levine wrote this: “What’s a delicious, moist sour cream coffee cake doing on an Italian sandwich shop menu?” Clearly, Levine doesn’t know everything about Italian-American customs. Until very recently, my own Italian-American family observed the Sunday-afternoon tradition of coffee and cake; we called it simply “Coffee and." My grandmother and her sisters and their husbands gathered at 2:30 p.m., put the coffee on (always in an aluminum percolator) and talked. Same thing every week. Most weekends, my aunt Anna made her famous chocolate sheet cake, which she dusted with powdered sugar and served with whipped cream.

Here, four F&W recipes perfect for "Coffee and."

Olive Oil Bundt Cake

Honey Tea Cake

Jacques Pépin’s Favorite Pound Cake

Cardamom Spiced Crumb Cake

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Already looking forward to next year (June 19-21, 2015)? Relive your favorite moments from the culinary world's most sensational weekend in the Rocky Mountains.