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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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The Week in Food

The First Hamburger?

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Minetta Burger / © Tina Rupp

Minetta Burger / © Tina Rupp

The history of the hamburger is controversial. Several people throughout history have claimed to be its inventor, including a man named  Louis Lassen. On July 28, 1900 at his restaurant Louis’ Lunch in New Haven, Connecticut, Lassen constructed a prototype when he sandwiched ground steak trimmings between two slices of toast for a man who asked for a meal he could eat on the go. The Original Burger on sliced bread is still served by the family-run tavern today. Today's hamburger. »

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Test Kitchen Tease

Ultimate Parker House Rolls

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Warning: Test Kitchen Tease snapshots may cause cravings, lip-smacking and an unshakeable desire to cook.

Jonathon Sawyer's Parker House Rolls

Justin Chapple

This week, while working on a terrific story for our December issue, F&W's Grace Parisi tested this phenomenal cheesy version of Parker House rolls from The Greenhouse Tavern's Jonathon Sawyer in Cleveland. They were supertender and we loved pulling apart each buttery piece. One secret to the recipe's awesomeness: Old Bay Seasoning. We know what you're thinking—how can a spice blend that's typically served with seafood be at all tasty with bread? You'll have to wait a few more months to taste his clever recipe, but in the meantime, try Grace's pull-apart Caraway Parker House Rolls.


Related: Breads of the World

Top Chef

Bravo Gets a Peek Inside Family Meals at Uchi

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At some restaurants, staff meals or “family meals” before service can be as simple as a pot of hastily thrown together chicken and rice, but at the unconventionally Japanese Uchi in Houston, Texas, they are a point of pride. To celebrate the new season of Top Chef Masters, which airs on Wednesdays at 10/9c, Bravo posted an exclusive look inside Uchi's enticing buffet-style staff meals. “We're a little bit spoiled,” says Top Chef Season 9 winner Paul Qui in the short film by Christian Remde. Homemade bread, crispy pork katsu, freshly-fried churros, miso-glazed salmon collar and even a side of sushi-grade blue fin tuna have made the cut. Top Chef fans won't be surprised to find out that there is an element of rivalry among the team. “We had a gnocchi battle when everybody got to make different kinds of gnocchi,” Qui says in the clip. Watch the video, and to find out where Qui eats out in Austin, check out his F&W Insider Travel Guide.

Related: Top Chef Dishes
Top Chef Top 10 Obsessions
Gail Simmons Rescues Top Chef Dishes

Grace in the Kitchen

Double Fake-Em Cheeseburger — Hold the Cheese

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Spiced-Tofu Sandwiches

Even meat-loving Texans love Grace Parisi's Spiced-Tofu Sandwiches. // © Lucas Allen

Food & Wine's senior recipe developer, Grace Parisi, is a Test Kitchen superstar. In this series, she shares some of her favorite recipes to make right now.

Our staff is pretty tough when it comes to recipe critiques—especially something as "fringe" as tofu. They hear "come to the kitchen to try a tofu blah blah blah…" and either come by reluctantly, or tune it out altogether. I had to tempt them back with a pork sandwich in the same message. In this dish, extra-firm tofu is marinated in a fragrant mix of coriander, fennel, black pepper, bay, paprika and garlic for 48 hours to soak up the spices' flavors. Then it's grilled and sandwiched with sweet pickles, lettuce, tomato and BBQ mayo in brioche buns. This "burger" ended up getting more kudos than the pork sitting on the adjacent platter. Texan and big meat guy Ray Isle was impressed—that's extraordinarily high praise! SEE RECIPE »

Related: More Recipes with Tofu
Vegetarian Sandwiches
Healthy Sandwiches

Ray Isle's Tasting Room

Sauvignon Blanc Flavor Scale

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Sauvignon Blanc Flavor Scale

© Alex Nabaum

Sauvignon Blanc, possibly more than most wine grapes, reflects where it is grown: Warm-climate wines will have notes of melon and ripe citrus, cooler-climate ones will be more herbal and green-peppery. Some people prefer one end of the spectrum, some the other—and knowing the wine’s origin will help you find a bottle you like. Here, a visual guide to the range of aromas and flavors.

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