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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Expert Lessons

Top 10 Crimes Against Pie

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© Brian M. Heiser

© Brian M. Heiser

At Chicago’s Hoosier Mama Pie Company, former Trio pastry chef Paula Haney and her team make up to 600 pies a week, kneading dough nonstop for as much as an hour per day, and burning through literally a ton of flour in as little as eight weeks. But practice does make perfect, as Haney’s pies—like her Cherry-Berry Pie—come out superbly flaky and intensely flavorful. Here, Haney tips off home bakers to the many mistakes that can get in the way of pie perfection. 10 pitfalls to avoid when baking pie. »

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Drink This Now

New Spiced Bitters from Cocktail Master Dale DeGroff

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Dale DeGroff's Pimento Bitters

Dale DeGroff's Pimento Bitters. Photo by Phil Jimcosky / Mutineer Magazine.

A pioneer of modern American mixology, “King Cocktail” Dale DeGroff is best known for his turn as head bartender at New York’s Rainbow Room, which recently was granted landmark status. Inspired by a Jamaican liqueur he loved that’s no longer on the market, DeGroff just unveiled a new product: Dale DeGroff’s Pimento Bitters. The infusion of distilled high-proof alcohol with pimento berries (a.k.a. allspice), orange peels, demerara sugar and a top secret strain of anise makes a super-aromatic cocktail component that’s richly spiced and comforting, especially in cold-weather drinks. He’s producing the bitters in France, and the product is now available in signed 250 ml bottles with his kitschy tuxedoed portrait on the label. Here, DeGroff talks about his path to bitters and how to use them in a delicious Thanksgiving punch. >

 

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Supermarket Sleuth

On a Search for Toasty Granola

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© Zubin Schroff

When making granola at home, toast it to maximize its nutty flavor.
// © Zubin Schroff

F&W Executive Food Editor Tina Ujlaki applies her incredible cooking knowledge to explaining what to do with a variety of interesting ingredients.

F&W thought the granola boom was over a few years ago, but the category keeps expanding like crazy! Personal taste when it comes to granola is sort of like chocolate chip cookie appreciation—some people prefer the dough raw, some like their cookies soft and almost gooey, some soft and chewy and some supercrisp.

Whether I make granola at home, which I do all the time, or I buy it (for a change of pace), I’m the charter member of the toasty camp. I think baking brings out the flavor of the oats, seeds and nuts, and since I usually have it as a topping or mix-in with tangy yogurt and supercrisp apples, flavor and texture are key. My favorite brands are the slightly salty Early Bird, which is made with olive oil; the almond-packed Bola granola, from the Berkshires; and one I just tried for the first time at the Natural Foods Expo called Viki’s.

If you want to make your own, where you’re in charge of toastiness and what goes in, here are a couple of my favorite recipes: Grace Parisi’s granola with maple-glazed walnuts and Jessamyn Waldman’s nutty granola from the awesome Hot Bread Kitchen in New York City.


Related: More Granola Recipes
Tasty Snacks
Healthy Snacks

Kitchen Trash

'Jersey Shore' Star Restores the Shore, Gets Spinoff Food Show

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Bucatini Carbonara

Anna Williams

Tonight at 11 pm ET, Vinny Guadagnino and his castmates from MTV’s Jersey Shore are hosting Restore the Shore, a one hour special to encourage viewers to make donations that will help rebuild Seaside Heights, NJ, which was badly damaged during Hurricane Sandy.
 
Guadagino will soon host his own talk show with a food angle, according to an announcement by MTV. On The Show With Vinny, he will interview celebrities at his family’s Staten Island house and serve them homemade Italian food, likely made by his mother Paula Guadagnino, who cooks enormous Italian meals for her family every day.

Related: Superb Italian Recipes
How to Eat and Drink Like the Cast of MTV's Jersey Shore
5 Reasons Why This is the Last Season of MTV's Jersey Shore

 

 

Charity

Recap: Dave Chang and Daniel Boulud for Hurricane Sandy

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Dave Chang and Daniel Boulud at their fundraising event to support Hurricane Sandy relief.

Courtesy of Daniel Boulud

The dinners and food-related events to assist Hurricane Sandy victims are still coming fast and furious. Like Eleven Madison Park's benefit to help rebuild the DUMBO restaurant Governor on November 20th. I applaud every single person who has done something in the kitchen or out of it, to help and urge everyone to keep up their great efforts.
 
I don’t know how most of those fund-raising meals came about. But I did hear the backstory of Momofuku and Café Boulud for NYC, the $495-per-person, one-night-only extravaganza which raised thousands of dollars for the Red Cross on November 2nd. And I got this groovy photo. So I wanted to tell the story.
 
The Players: Superchef Daniel Boulud and Momofuku’s Dave Chang. And Ben Leventhal (Eater.com’s co-founder and food-world rainmaker) who had the idea to bring downtown uptown, then got Boulud and Chang together. Along with Café Boulud chef Gavin Kaysen and a bunch of Momofuku staff who wanted to do something, but couldn’t because their downtown restaurants were closed.
 
The Location: The elite Café Boulud (a place where Chang was once a harried line cook).
 
The Complications: Chang was in Toronto during the Hurricane; his return flight was repeatedly cancelled. So the chef jumped in a rental car and drove back to NYC. Stories of speeding tickets and empty gas tanks can’t be confirmed or denied.
 
The Café Boulud & Momofuku Menu:
scallop - chick-pea miso, tamari
matsutake agnolotti - buckwheat, french toast
veal sweetbreads - yuzu kosho, labne, asian pear
foie gras - lychee, pine nut
duck - wild rice, apple, brussels sprouts

To book seats at Eleven Madison Park's dinner in support of Governor restaurant on November 20th, call 212-995-0905.

And for more on Boulud and Chang, and another great photo of the two together, check out the Toronto story in the December issue of F&W (I happened to write it).

Related: Learn about #DineOutNYC
Daniel Boulud Recipes
David Chang Recipes

 

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