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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Recipes

Award: Best Dish of the Weekend

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© kate krader
Bad Pic of a Great Dish: Inaki's Beef with Chive Salad

In honor of Emmy Awards Sunday, I'm handing out a prize of my own: best dish of the weekend.

Competition was stiff: By my count, there were a trillion excellent food–related events in NYC on Saturday and Sunday.

Among the highlights: Brooklyn Local, which brought together top Brooklyn purveyors (shout out to Ample Hills Creamery’s aptly named Salted Caramel Crack ice cream), and restaurants (such as my local spot Seersucker), all to benefit City Harvest. Also the Travel + Leisure Global Bazaar which starred chefs like José Andrés and Marcus Samuelsson. And don't forget the Feast of San Gennaro, featuring sticky ribs from Torrisi Italian Specialties and a short rib patty melt from Dewey Dufresne, the dad of WD-50’s Wylie Dufresne.

But I cast my vote for the absolute best-tasting dish of the weekend to one served at Le Grand Fooding Campfire Session: beef with chive salad. There was no campfire in sight; then again, the French-based Le Fooding’s events don’t always make sense. Who cares: The “campfire” featured Inaki Aizpitarte from Paris’s Le Chateaubriand. Inaki seared the beef beautifully but the chive salad made it, and here’s what was in it: chives, yes, and coriander seeds, buckwheat, flax seed, cocoa nibs, lemon juice and browned French butter, which worked better than American butter. It was crazy good, and I’m not even factoring in how cool it was to have LCD Soundsystem’s James Murphy acting as saucier.   

Recipes

Arepas: The Ultimate Culinary Vehicle

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Warning: Test Kitchen Tease snapshots may cause cravings, lip-smacking and an unshakeable desire to cook.

Savory Pork Filled Arepa
Inspired by Zarela Martinez (chef-owner of NYC's Zarela) and Latin ballpark food in Brooklyn, senior recipe developer Grace Parisi created this speedy version of a stuffed arepa, a thick corn-based dough that’s grilled, baked or fried to become the ultimate vehicle for a range of brightly flavored garnishes. Grace filled this version with savory pork and topped it with pickled red cabbage, jalapeños and cilantro. The recipe will endure one more round of testing and tasting before it’s published in our January issue, but in the meantime, here are some of our delectable Latin American recipes to try—including crispy, flaky stuffed empanadas. 

Recipes

Bacony Chicken with Sauerkraut for Oktoberfest

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Chicken Dance spotlights a fantastic Food & Wine chicken recipe every day.

Chicken with Sauerkraut

© Melanie Acevedo
Chicken with Sauerkraut

Starting tomorrow through October 3, more than five million revelers will visit Munich for Germany’s annual Oktoberfest, to down specially brewed beer with hearty, traditional fare. Many of the beer tents serve Hendl, a roasted or grilled chicken dish eaten with fresh soft pretzels or sauerkraut. To recreate the celebration at home, F&W offers budget-friendly braised chicken thighs with a quick sauerkraut combining vegetables, apple, juniper berries and delicious bacon. Plus, a perfect German pretzel recipe.

Related: More German Dishes
F&W's Dana Cowin Does the Chicken Dance on the Today Show for Oktoberfest

Beer

NYC Craft Beer Week Kicks Off Today

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Passport

© NY Beer Week
NY Beer Week Passport

The 4th Annual NY Craft Beer Week starts today and goes through Sunday, September 25. Beer Passports are available for $10 online, or as an iPhone or Droid app, and include a complete list of events as well as coupons for $3 beers at hundreds of local bars. Some highlights by the numbers:
 
- 6 courses of chef Bobby Hellen’s fantastic Belgian-inspired food at Resto on Monday 9/19 for the Ultimate Brewmaster's Degustation Beer Dinner, with two beer pairings per course. Call 212-685-5585 for reservations.

- 10 days to take part in Beer Week events that include tastings, music festivals and pub crawls.
 
- 21 breweries pouring special beers paired with charcuterie, cheese and chocolate at the Brewer’s Choice pairing event at City Winery on the 22nd.
 
- $40 to attend the September 24 Have Beer, Will Travel event at Hudson Terrace and taste 50 obscure beers from NY and Canada.
 
- 150 mile radius of NYC: Eight breweries in this range will participate in the Just Food: Let Us Eat Local Annual Fundraiser on the 21st. Restaurants providing food include ABC Kitchen, Gramercy Tavern and the Spotted Pig, among others. A portion of proceeds from the evening will go to farmers impacted by Hurricane Irene.

Related: Great American Beer, Bourbon and More

Recipes

American Riffs on Classic French Dishes

The October issue celebrates France. Here, delicious new takes on French classics.

French (Canadian) Onion Soup

© French (Canadian) Onion Soup
French (Canadian) Onion Soup

For years, few Americans would admit to loving French food. It seemed so decadent, so fussy, so old-fashioned. But now American bakers are tackling macarons, and chefs and writers are defending the beauty of cooking like the French.

French (Canadian) Onion Soup (left): Chef Hugue Dufour, an alum of Montreal's Au Pied de Cochon, combined French-Canadian style with American comfort food at M. Wells (moving soon to a new location in Long Island City, New York). This soup epitomizes his style.

Crab-and-Celery-Root Remoulade: At Portland, Oregon's Little Bird, Gabriel Rucker (an F&W Best New Chef 2007) tweaks French dishes like céleri remoulade, the mayo-dressed celery-root salad.

Zucchini-Tomato Verrines: Most Paris bistros serve at least one verrine: a multi-textured salad or dessert layered in a glass. This one comes from French-born food stylist Béatrice Peltre of the blog La Tartine Gourmande, whose book of the same name comes out in February.

Soubise: At Frasca in Boulder, Colorado, Brian Lockwood finishes leek risotto with this creamy onion sauce, usually served with meat or fish.

Hollandaise: Danny Grant of RIA in Chicago tops langoustines with a velvety, coriander-scented hollandaise.

Escargot: Pierre Calmels of Philadelphia's Bibou is such a fan of snails, he's been known to dedicate five courses in a menu to them. His signature dish: snails with mushrooms.

Gribiche: At Gather in Berkeley, Sean Baker turns this tartar-like sauce (thickened with hard-boiled eggs) into a salad with duck-egg wedges, herbs, shallots, garlic and mustard.

Related: A Surprising Guide to French Cuisine
The Radical French-Canadian Food of Joe Beef
April Bloomfield's First Trip to France

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