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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Dom Pérignon's Tribute to Andy Warhol

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Andy Warhol was a big fan of Dom Pérignon. So much so that he and his friends made a plan to drink it to ring in the new millennium in 2000. In his diary entry from March 8, 1981, he writes: “...the ‘2,000’ people — it’s a club of twenty guys who got together and they're going to buy 2,000 bottles of Dom Pérignon which they will put in a sealed room until the year 2000 and then open it up and drink it and so the running joke is who will be around and who won’t...” The stashed bottles have never been found, nor have the other 19 members of the group been identified. It almost makes you want to go on a scavenger hunt!

Now, in a tribute to the pop-art legend, Dom Pérignon has teamed up with Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design in London for a limited-edition collection of three Andy Warhol–inspired bottles, vintage 2002. The labels, in red, yellow or blue, recall Warhol’s bold use of color and graphics.

The bottles are available today at a suggested retail price of $150, in NYC at Crush Wine & Spirits and Sherry-Lehmann.

Chefs

A Night with Ferran for A Day at El Bulli Screening

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© kate krader
Ferran Adrià with F&W star contributor Anya von Bremzen.

Ferran Adrià was only in New York briefly—I estimate 48 hours—but he still screened the amazing documentary A Day at El Bulli. The profile of the world’s most famous restaurant is directed by Ferran’s brother, Albert Adrià (more on Albert in a second). Here, a few more cool details.

The Film: As the name suggests, A Day at El Bulli includes morning coffee with Adrià, a surprisingly laid-back staff meal, the arrival of the first customers at 7:30 pm (remember, this is Spain), the departure of the last customer at who-knows-what time, and plenty of mind-blowing food all the way through.

The Screening Location
: The just-opening Bar Basque in the Eventi hotel in midtown NYC, which will feature a rotating list of visiting chefs from the Basque region. Another smart feature of the restaurant: a giant projector with the capacity to show films on the wall of an adjacent building.

What Ferran Said At the Reception (in Spanish, via a translator): “This is the first time I’ve seen the film since I announced the closing of El Bulli. Now I know, the spirit must continue. But it’s necessary to have a transformation.” Ferran will announce his exact plans for the new El Bulli at the next Madrid Fusión conference on January 26, 2011. Meanwhile, he’s heavily involved with Albert in a new version of their terrific tapas Barcelona tapas bar, Inopia.

Wines Under $20

Wines for Weddings (and other big parties, for that matter)

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The #1 question I received leading up to my wedding this past weekend: What are you going to drink? Me? Well, my new husband and I opted for the lightly toasty, strawberry-inflected NV Gatinois Rosé Champage ($40; find this wine), but we couldn’t exactly afford to serve it to all of our guests. We did, however, want to serve wines that we wouldn’t mind drinking and more important, would please a range of palates. Here is where we landed:

NV Botter Prosecco Spago ($10; find this wine): This apple-scented sparkling wine has just a touch of residual sugar, making it delicious with all the salty hors d’oeuvres, like pigs in a blanket and mushroom-and-onion tartlets with blue cheese.

2009 Domaine Gaujal de Saint Bon Picpoul de Pinet ($10; find this wine): We wanted a zesty unoaked white that was a little more interesting than cheap Pinot Grigio but not as grassy as Sauvignon Blanc. Picpoul is minerally and citrusy but with an ever so slight floral character that was nice with the lobster-sherry broth in our fish dish.

2008 Bodegas Olivares Altos de la Hoya Monastrell ($9; find this wine): Since people would be drinking this wine both with food and without, we wanted a red with no rough edges. This blueberry-rich Monastrell (the grape is known as Mourvedre in France) is fruity enough to drink on its own but has enough guts to stand up to the steak that was served.  

Restaurants

Brunch Italian-Style at L’Artusi

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I was thrilled when Joe Campanale told me they were introducing Sunday brunch at his awesome Manhattan restaurant, L’Artusi. I got a preview last weekend. It’s hard to single out favorites, but here were some dishes that I’ll be back for:
- Creamy Polenta with a Poached Egg and Amatriciana Sauce
- Panino with Braised Pancetta, Fried Egg and Pickled Chiles
- Everything sweet from talented pastry chef and co-owner Katherine Thompson, especially the cherry scones.

- The Texas Mimosa, inspired by Campanale’s Texas friends, chef Tim Love and F&W Best New Chef 2009 Bryan Caswell. It’s made with fresh grapefruit juice, sparkling wine and tequila.
- The L’Artusi Bloody, a spicy mix of tomato juice, Hudson Valley Vodka, Mezcal-infused chiles, Sriracha and market vegetables.
Brunch starts this Sunday, from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

Cookbooks

More Notes from the NYC Wine & Food Festival

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© Lou Manna
Rocco DiSpirito

My colleague Kate Krader recently blogged about her three highlights from last weekend's New York City Wine & Food Festival.  I'm going to add two more to the list.

* My friend Cricket Azima taught a kids' cooking class on Saturday, part of the Kids Get Cooking! segment of the festival.  She deftly led 50 kids (some even clad in chef jackets) in making panzanella.  Nothing beats seeing a bunch of kids happily dicing veggies, all yelling "Mangia, mangia, mangia!" ("Eat, eat, eat!" in Italian) in unison. 

* On Sunday, Rocco DiSpirito cracked jokes during his culinary demo, as he shared secrets for making over comfort foods from his latest book, Now Eat This!  Rocco related how he wanted to find a way to have real fried chicken, while cutting out a lot of the fat: "Who needs another baked chicken recipe?" he said.  He consulted Harold McGee, father of all things scientific in the kitchen, and discovered that less time in oil = less fat absorbed. So, he came up with the idea to poach chicken in broth until almost cooked through, dunk it in the requisite buttermilk bath and flour coating, then flash-fry it very quickly in hot oil.  Chicken that's crispy and lower in fat: genius!

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Already looking forward to next year (June 19-21, 2015)? Relive your favorite moments from the culinary world's most sensational weekend in the Rocky Mountains.