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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Recipes

A Rye Toast to J.D. Salinger

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© Alessandra Bulow
Rye House Punch at Rye House in NYC

In a tribute to J.D. Salinger, the famously reclusive author of The Catcher in the Rye, who passed away this week, my colleague Kristin Donnelly and I raised a glass to him last night at Rye House, a new cocktail bar in New York City’s Flatiron District. We especially liked the citrusy but not too sweet Rye House Punch (made with chai-infused Rittenhouse Rye, Batavia Arrack, lemon, grapefruit and Angostura bitters, pictured) as well as the flaky pork belly and smoked Gouda-filled empanadas.

Here, a few rye-based cocktails to toast the author’s life and literary works:
Carra-Ryed Away
Manhattan
Silver Lining

Recipes

Yoga & Food

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As Julia Moskin reports in this week’s New York Times Dining section, many yoga traditionalists are not pleased with all the eating and drinking now happening at yoga studios around the country. While austerity is at the core of many traditional yoga practices, personally I’m hungry after a 90-minute Bikram yoga session in a 110 degree room (even if it smells like stinky, sweaty feet).

Here, some fantastic recipes from my favorite chef-yogi (and an F&W Best New Chef 2009), Jeremy Fox from Napa Valley’s Ubuntu restaurant and yoga studio:

Carrot Macaroni and Cheese (pictured)
Lemony Quinoa Salad with Shaved Vegetables
Broccoli à la Catalan

News

Brooklyn Kitchen: DIY Heaven

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© Chloe Brownstein
Inside The Brooklyn Kitchen's new digs.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If Philadelphia’s Green Aisle Grocery is for food-loving, eco-conscious yuppies, the new Brooklyn Kitchen is for food-loving pioneer wannabes. Sure, it sells groceries like locally sourced meat that's cut and sometimes cured by rock-star butcher Tom Mylan. But with two classrooms in this huge warehouse space, the philosophy clearly is, why buy what you can make? Last week I took a kombucha class (more details to follow tomorrow). There are beer-brewing classes too, as well as support groups for home brewers (that's how hot home-brewing is right now). Mylan and his meat-cutting cohorts teach classes in butchering as well as sausage-making. And with the shortage of Angostura bitters, you can take a class on how to make your own. The classes aren’t only a great source of revenue, they’re a brilliant way to get people to the new digs, on a rather desolate stretch under the BQE (Brooklyn-Queeens Expressway). And like a theme park ride that spins you out right into the gift shop, Brooklyn Kitchen conveniently sells all the supplies a just-trained DIY-er will need, like fresh hops for making beer.

Restaurants

The Black Truffle Beignet at Eleven Madison Park

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© kate krader
A bad pic of an excellent black truffle beignet at Eleven Madison.

It’s been a good week for me and black truffles. First I got to attend the three-course AC/BT (Andrew Carmellini/Black Truffle) dinner at NYC's Locanda Verde. There Carmellini (an F&W Best New Chef 2000) added truffles to everything from oxtail minestrone to scallops to an ice cream sundae. I even scored an AC/BT "Back in Black" T-shirt that I wore to the gym the next morning, like I used to do in high school the day after a concert. And then last night, I hit the jackpot at Manhattan’s outstanding Eleven Madison Park. There, Daniel Humm (an F&W Best New Chef 2005) is perfecting something he calls a black truffle beignet. It comes to the table in a rice-filled glass, looking for all the world like a solid, thousand-dollar black truffle. In fact, it’s made with pureed chickpeas and enough truffles to make it pitch black. He got the idea at, get this , a falafel stand in Montclair, New Jersey. The beignet is absolutely fantastic; the only thing that can possibly top it would be to find an actual black truffle on my plate at my next meal.

Restaurants

Eat Here, Not There

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Because I’m so inspired by the Eat This, Not That series, and because I’ve recently found myself in frustrating situations at restaurants that made me feel that, really, I should have gone to that other place on the next block, I’ve decided to start an infrequent series. And I would welcome similar stories from anyone who reads this blog.

Coming soon on Eat Here, Not There: NYC's Lupa vs. Bar Henry.

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Run with chefs and wine experts in the Celebrity Chef 5K and dance all night at Gail Simmons’ Last Bite Dessert Party during the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen, June 20-22.