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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Drink This Now

Sesame, Mustard and Olive Oils Now Enhancing Cocktails

The Torpedo

The Torpedo © Emily Hsu

We use oils in just about every aspect of our lives: cooking, cleaning, car maintenance. Now bartenders are using oils—sparingly—in cocktails, for their intense aromas and flavors. MORE >

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Supermarket Sleuth

The Chocolate Bar Hidden in My Desk Right Now

Courtesy of Theo Chocolate

Courtesy of Theo Chocolate

F&W food editors apply their incredible cooking knowledge to explaining what to do with a variety of interesting ingredients.

Theo is one of my favorite chocolate companies: Not only does it make organic, fair-trade bars and truffles in its Seattle factory, but Theo also is just so creative (its Bread and Chocolate bar, made with crispy crumbs, is a longtime love of mine). The company recently relaunched its Classic collection of bars, which mainly focuses on dark chocolate.

My favorite, however, is the milk chocolate made from 45 percent cacao and blended with crunchy bits of roasted almonds as well as pink Himalayan salt and ground vanilla. In an age when chocolate bars can be as fetishized as bottles of wine (and cost almost as much), I love that this bar is simple and tasty, and, at $4, is an affordable indulgence.

Related: Amazing Chocolate Desserts
Chocolate Chip Cookies
Best Chocolate in the U.S.

Trendspotting

Euphoria-Inducing Hot Sauces Use the World’s Hottest Chile

Scorpion Peppers

Scorpion Peppers © Chili Pepper Madness

New York City’s first Hot Sauce Expo, at East River State Park from April 20 to 21, will feature more than 100 lip-tingling sauces from across the country, a chile-packed brownie-eating challenge and a chicken wing cook-off; admission is $10. (With $100 VIP tickets, add an open bar, private restrooms and free bottles of sauce.) But true hot sauce geeks will be there to seek out new products made with the world’s reigning hottest chile, the Moruga Scorpion. Here, a testament to the pepper's heat and three daring hot sauce makers that are now using the Scorpion chile. MORE >

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Hungry Crowd

The Rock-and-Roll Cheesemaker: A Q&A With Blur's Alex James

Alex James of Blur

Alex James Photo © Adam Gasson

After Britpop superstars Blur first split up in the early 2000s, bassist Alex James got married and moved to a farm in the British countryside—and then he started making cheese. Now, James is more involved in fermented milk than he is in music: He writes newspaper columns in the UK about food, and in August he is curating a music and food festival with Jamie Oliver called The Big Feastival, which will be held on James’s 200-acre farm. Unfortunately, his three artisanal cheeses—Little Whallop (goat cheese washed in brandy and wrapped in a vine leaf), Goddess (a rich, semi-soft cows' milk cheese), and Farleigh Whallop (a goat cheese log rolled in thyme)—are unavailable in the US. This spring James is back on tour with Blur for a handful of big festival shows, including Coachella. Just a few hours before going onstage, James sat down with blogger Zach Brooks to talk farming, Sting’s olive oil and cheese. A portion of the interview is below; to download their entire talk, head to foodisthenewrock.com.

What's it like having a farm in the Cotswolds?
Buying a farm is like running a small bankrupt country. It’s not just a house—a farm—it’s a business. It’s not grand. It has to work. We’ve got a couple of hundred acres and the first two years was like: Hedges, what are you supposed to do with hedges? And drains, and ditches, and there’s water going everywhere, and things are breaking and falling over and running away. And suddenly I found I was getting up earlier than I ever had. But I absolutely loved it. And I’ve always loved cheese, and it took two years to figure out that’s what we should be making on the farm.

When did you get the farm?
Ten years ago. I think farms probably are the natural habitat for the aging rock gentleman. It’s hard to think of somebody in a serious band who doesn’t live on a farm. Roger Daltrey lives on a farm. Paul McCartney lives on a farm. Sting lives on a farm. I tell you what: Sting’s olive oil is the benchmark celebrity food product. It’s absolutely knockout.

Can people buy Sting’s olive oil? Or do you trade it: “I’ll trade you a block of my blue cheese for a bottle of your olive oil”?
There’s a really limited amount. I’ve seen it only once. If you’re listening, Sting, I’m well up for some swapsies.

So how did the cheese thing happen?
I suddenly went from having a balcony as my outside space to being suddenly the ruler of this tiny kingdom that had stuff living in it and growing in it. I was just sort of gradually getting to grips with it all when somebody approached me saying, “I’m a cheesemaker,” and he wanted somewhere to make cheese. And I was like, “Really!” Because people used to throw cheese me at me when Blur was playing and would present it to me in hotel lobbies. It was sort of the one-word thing you used to describe me. Cheese is incredibly tasty stuff. Milk is such a mammalian elixir, isn’t it? And cheese is the ultimate distillation of milk. I do absolutely love cheese. In terms of running a business it would much better if I loved wine, beer, or coffee or something where the profit margins are much higher. 


So how important is the quality of the milk vs. the process?
You can make an OK cheese out of OK milk. And you can make an OK cheese out of great milk. But you can’t make a great cheese out of OK milk. If you made a cheese with Guernsey milk instead of Holstein milk you’d get a much denser, creamier cheese. The rarest cheese in the world is reindeer cheese. They’re very hard to catch, and they don’t like being milked.

Do you have a desert island cheese?
A really good, mature, really hard artisan cheddar would probably be my desert island cheese, with pickled onion and a bit of pineapple. But the one I’m really excited at the moment is aged Gouda. But I think it sort of changes all the time. It depends on what time of day it is as well. Blue cheese, not a breakfast thing. But when it gets dark...it’s a good way to end the day, with a really smelly cheese before you go to bed.

Do you have favorite cheeses around the world?
My passion was definitely developed and informed and nurtured by touring with the band because we’d get cheese on the rider. It would just say “cheese,” so in France where cheese is called fromage, fromage doesn’t mean cheddar. Cheese means cheddar in Britain. If you say cheese, people will think cheddar. If you say fromage in France, that means Camembert probably. And formaggio in Italy, that means maybe Parmesan, maybe mozzarella. Queso in Spain means Manchego probably, which is made from sheep milk, hard cheese, really nutty, sweet, amazing. And it goes on and on all around the world.


What do you think of Kraft American cheese slices?
I’m a big fan of a bit of melty cheese on a burger. I’m not snobby about it.

Hear the entire interview with Alex James as a downloadable podcast on foodisthenewrock.com.

Grace in the Kitchen

Baked and Blissed Out

These delicious stuffed shells get flavor from a mixture of two kinds of cheese and vegetables.

These delicious stuffed shells get flavor from a mixture of two kinds of
cheese and vegetables. © Christina Holmes

Food & Wine's senior recipe developer, Grace Parisi, is a Test Kitchen superstar. In this series, she shares some of her favorite recipes to make right now.

Stuffed shells were a big treat when I was growing up. A little bit more labor intensive than baked ziti but not as complicated as lasagna, my mom would make shells for special occasions. Hers were straight ricotta-filled shells with a homemade (delicious) tomato sauce. Sometimes she’d put meat in the sauce or add spinach to the ricotta. Though I loved hers, I like a bit more texture and complexity to my stuffed shells. Sweet, caramelized fennel mixed with sautéed bitter radicchio, stinky (yummy) Fontina cheese, and creamy ricotta fill my shells. I originally developed this recipe to satisfy an editorial challenge: A jarred tomato sauce taste test. We tried dozens of jarred marinara sauces and some were phenomenally disgusting. I will not name names. The one favored by our staff was Rao’s—no surprise. It has a great consistency, rich flavor and spot-on seasoning, and is perfect for using straight out of the jar or in a recipe. For this dish, I combined the sauce with some cream to make it even richer and silkier. Though this recipe may seem complicated, using a good-quality jarred sauce, albeit a little doctored, makes it entirely doable. SEE RECIPE »

Related: Delicious Pasta Recipes
Baked Pastas
Cheesy Recipes

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