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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine


London’s Pop-Up Street Food


© Ratha Tep
Street Kitchen's Mark Jankel and Jun Tanaka

Pop-up dining is having its moment in London: There are new pop-up restaurants and supper clubs, and now there's Street Kitchen, a 14-day pop-up on wheels that debuted last week at Covent Garden for the London Restaurant Festival. Out of their shiny Airstream trailer, Mark Jankel of The Food Initiative and Jun Tanaka of Pearl give British dishes like braised beef with roasted carrots and celeriac mash an extreme locavore spin, using strictly UK ingredients that come directly from farmers and producers (that means no black pepper or olive oil). That local ethos even extends to the cooking: The sublime salmon, from Scourie, Scotland's Loch Duart aquafarm (the only place the French Laundry goes to for its salmon), is delicately smoked with whiskey-barrel chips from a Scottish distillery. Street Kitchen moves to Old Spitalfields Market today, where it will operate through Monday. Potentially in the works for the near future is that pop-up sibling, the roving food truck.

Wine Shops

Dom Pérignon's Tribute to Andy Warhol


Andy Warhol was a big fan of Dom Pérignon. So much so that he and his friends made a plan to drink it to ring in the new millennium in 2000. In his diary entry from March 8, 1981, he writes: “...the ‘2,000’ people — it’s a club of twenty guys who got together and they're going to buy 2,000 bottles of Dom Pérignon which they will put in a sealed room until the year 2000 and then open it up and drink it and so the running joke is who will be around and who won’t...” The stashed bottles have never been found, nor have the other 19 members of the group been identified. It almost makes you want to go on a scavenger hunt!

Now, in a tribute to the pop-art legend, Dom Pérignon has teamed up with Central Saint Martins College of Art & Design in London for a limited-edition collection of three Andy Warhol–inspired bottles, vintage 2002. The labels, in red, yellow or blue, recall Warhol’s bold use of color and graphics.

The bottles are available today at a suggested retail price of $150, in NYC at Crush Wine & Spirits and Sherry-Lehmann.


A Night with Ferran for A Day at El Bulli Screening


© kate krader
Ferran Adrià with F&W star contributor Anya von Bremzen.

Ferran Adrià was only in New York briefly—I estimate 48 hours—but he still screened the amazing documentary A Day at El Bulli. The profile of the world’s most famous restaurant is directed by Ferran’s brother, Albert Adrià (more on Albert in a second). Here, a few more cool details.

The Film: As the name suggests, A Day at El Bulli includes morning coffee with Adrià, a surprisingly laid-back staff meal, the arrival of the first customers at 7:30 pm (remember, this is Spain), the departure of the last customer at who-knows-what time, and plenty of mind-blowing food all the way through.

The Screening Location
: The just-opening Bar Basque in the Eventi hotel in midtown NYC, which will feature a rotating list of visiting chefs from the Basque region. Another smart feature of the restaurant: a giant projector with the capacity to show films on the wall of an adjacent building.

What Ferran Said At the Reception (in Spanish, via a translator): “This is the first time I’ve seen the film since I announced the closing of El Bulli. Now I know, the spirit must continue. But it’s necessary to have a transformation.” Ferran will announce his exact plans for the new El Bulli at the next Madrid Fusión conference on January 26, 2011. Meanwhile, he’s heavily involved with Albert in a new version of their terrific tapas Barcelona tapas bar, Inopia.

Wines Under $20

Wines for Weddings (and other big parties, for that matter)


The #1 question I received leading up to my wedding this past weekend: What are you going to drink? Me? Well, my new husband and I opted for the lightly toasty, strawberry-inflected NV Gatinois Rosé Champage ($40; find this wine), but we couldn’t exactly afford to serve it to all of our guests. We did, however, want to serve wines that we wouldn’t mind drinking and more important, would please a range of palates. Here is where we landed:

NV Botter Prosecco Spago ($10; find this wine): This apple-scented sparkling wine has just a touch of residual sugar, making it delicious with all the salty hors d’oeuvres, like pigs in a blanket and mushroom-and-onion tartlets with blue cheese.

2009 Domaine Gaujal de Saint Bon Picpoul de Pinet ($10; find this wine): We wanted a zesty unoaked white that was a little more interesting than cheap Pinot Grigio but not as grassy as Sauvignon Blanc. Picpoul is minerally and citrusy but with an ever so slight floral character that was nice with the lobster-sherry broth in our fish dish.

2008 Bodegas Olivares Altos de la Hoya Monastrell ($9; find this wine): Since people would be drinking this wine both with food and without, we wanted a red with no rough edges. This blueberry-rich Monastrell (the grape is known as Mourvedre in France) is fruity enough to drink on its own but has enough guts to stand up to the steak that was served.  


Brunch Italian-Style at L’Artusi


I was thrilled when Joe Campanale told me they were introducing Sunday brunch at his awesome Manhattan restaurant, L’Artusi. I got a preview last weekend. It’s hard to single out favorites, but here were some dishes that I’ll be back for:
- Creamy Polenta with a Poached Egg and Amatriciana Sauce
- Panino with Braised Pancetta, Fried Egg and Pickled Chiles
- Everything sweet from talented pastry chef and co-owner Katherine Thompson, especially the cherry scones.

- The Texas Mimosa, inspired by Campanale’s Texas friends, chef Tim Love and F&W Best New Chef 2009 Bryan Caswell. It’s made with fresh grapefruit juice, sparkling wine and tequila.
- The L’Artusi Bloody, a spicy mix of tomato juice, Hudson Valley Vodka, Mezcal-infused chiles, Sriracha and market vegetables.
Brunch starts this Sunday, from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Run with chefs and wine experts in the Celebrity Chef 5K and dance all night at Gail Simmons’ Last Bite Dessert Party during the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen, June 20-22.