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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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What To Drink Next

Phil Ward's Perfect Margaritas

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Mayahuel

Courtesy of Mayahuel

Phil Ward, co-owner of New York City’s tequila and mezcal den, Mayahuel, has strong opinions about the margarita: “It has sold a lot of really bad tequila, but it’s a relevant drink—up there with the classics.” While some of our favorite bars take liberties with their recipes, Ward is a purist. Here are his three rules for making an exceptional margarita >

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Chicken Dance

Chicken Quesadillas with Legit Caramelized Onions

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Chicken Quesadillas

© Lucy Schaeffer / Chicken Quesadillas

Have you ever felt betrayed by a recipe? Today on Slate, writer Tom Socca criticizes those who underestimate the time it takes to caramelize onions. “Onions do not caramelize in five or 10 minutes,” Socca writes. “They never have, they never will—yet recipe writers have never stopped pretending that they will.” There's no pretending when it comes to these wonderfully melty chicken quesadillas, which like all of F&W's recipes, are tested and perfected. The directions allot about 30 low-effort minutes to soften the onions, which create a sweet contrast to salty-tangy blue cheese.

Related: More Onion Recipes
Great Mexican Recipes
Deliciously Cheesy Dishes

Travel

The Next Noma

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Critics weigh in on which restaurant will join the famed Danish spot, and reigning number one restaurant in the world, Noma, on the pilgrimage circuit.

Benu, San Francisco

© Justin Lewis

Benu, San Francisco (left)
The San Francisco Chronicle’s Michael Bauer praises Corey Lee’s breathtaking East meets West modernist cuisine (Lee makes a mock shark’s-fin soup using thin strands of hydrocolloids).

Attica, Australia
Melbourne’s Ben Shewry serves “emo” cuisine, built on personal memories and foraged foods. “It’s the best expression of Oz’s terroir,” says The Age’s Matt Preston.

Aponiente, Spain
Ángel León’s umami-packed risotto with plankton makes him “the René Redzepi of the sea,” says F&W correspondent Gisela Williams.

 

Noma, Denmark

© Ditte Isager

Fäviken Magasinet, Sweden
A modern primitive dining experience—aged meats hanging in the dining room, fried lichen on the plate. Time’s Lisa Abend calls Magnus Nilsson’s food “intensely perfect.”

Noma, Denmark (left)
“Noma’s the next Noma, isn’t it?” says the L.A. Times’s Jonathan Gold. “Redzepi is writing symphonies while everyone else is playing chopsticks.”

 

 

Read more from the May issue.

chicken dance

Cheap and Tasty Drumsticks

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Chicken Drumsticks

© Tina Rupp / Chicken Drumsticks

Once shunned by Americans for breasts, chicken legs and thighs are growing in popularity with consumers who, like chefs, love their depth of flavor, juiciness and affordability. But as demand for dark meat grows, so does the price. According to the Huffington Post, wholesale boneless thighs now cost as much as, or occasionally more than breasts. Drumsticks, on the other hand, remain a great budget option. Marinated in spicy yogurt, these skinless Grilled Tandoori-Style Chicken Drumsticks are much tastier than white meat–with only slightly more fat. They’re also much more fun to eat.

Related: Delicious Drumstick Recipes
Grilled Chicken
Terrific Chicken Thigh Recipes

Travel

How Hotels Get Personal

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It takes more than grand gestures to impress hotel dweller Paul Carr.

Hotels Get Personal

© Klas Fahlén

A knock on one’s hotel-room door at 10 p.m. rarely bodes well. Unless, that is, one is staying at a particular five-star hotel in Las Vegas, in which case it heralds a man struggling under the weight of a gigantic chocolate garden, with flowers, trees and shrubs—an over-the-top take on the pillow mint. As a person who lives in hotels, I’ve watched the arms race of room service with interest. The latest trend is über-personalization, in which hotels provide extras tailored to each guest. As an example: I recently spent a night at The Lanesborough in London, failing to stump my butler with a spiraling list of requests. Could the chef prepare a deep-fried quail? Of course. How about a partridge wrap with a diamond cocktail stick? For a price. I opted for a chicken sandwich. It arrived alongside a small chocolate cake, the words Happy 30th Birthday iced on the top with a single lit candle. I hadn’t told anyone it was my birthday. Creating a chocolate garden is no doubt impressive, but far harder is delivering a personal touch without fanfare. No diamond cocktail stick required.

Paul Carr chronicles his hotel adventures in his book The Upgrade.

Read more travel stories from our May issue.

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Already looking forward to next year (June 19-21, 2015)? Relive your favorite moments from the culinary world's most sensational weekend in the Rocky Mountains.