Portland empire builder Vitaly Paley of Paley's Place, Imperial and Portland Penny Diner makes a crave-worthy signature dish that doesn't even require cooking: Wagyu beef tartare. “We take Wagyu from Snake River Farms, a culotte, which we chop by hand. We mix it with some chiles, a little bit of olive oil, mustard, Tabasco and Worcestershire—as traditional as can be,” he says. “And then, as though tartare weren’t rich enough, we top it with a duck egg yolk.” The tartare is served with classic accompaniments: chopped parsley and sweet onion, capers and grilled black rye made locally by Ken’s Artisan Bakery. “We encourage people to mix it all up, spread it on the still-warm grilled bread. Steak tartare and a martini? Life is good.”
Not anymore. It’s football season. So if you’re hanging out with anyone from the NFL, know that a fully loaded burger is probably off-limits; the ones they’re eating are unadorned and bunless. (And quite possibly vegan.) Any shakes these players are drinking undoubtedly have the word “protein” attached.
This is one of my favorite clam recipes, the more Spanish version of clams casino. I think of it as the most likely progenitor of that steak house and country club classic. I never heard of this as a Spanish dish until I started reading Penelope Casas's books when I got out of college. Anyone looking for some lusty, good old-school Spanish food should read her books. Anyway, I have made this dish for a long time, with much success. When poaching the clams I use a half bottle of a light, crisp white wine with some diced celery, carrot and onion. I bring it to a boil before loading in the cleaned and scrubbed clams. Pluck them out as soon as they open or you risk toughening the little beauties. Strain the broth and use it for soups and stews; it's fantastically oceanic and sweet-salty. SEE RECIPE »
Having been battered by Eatocracy commenters who found my previous listicle the Seven Sins of Steak Houses “too negative,” I thought I might correct that with a sequel: things to look for in a great steak house. I agree that you can’t just complain and walk away, unless, like me, your dream is to live on an Icelandic sheep pasture. We all love steak houses, and we all want to have great experiences there, and we are even willing to pay for them. But how do you know where to go? Here are some pointers. (I’m assuming your primary desire in a steak house is to get great steak. If you are after romantic atmosphere or Dover sole, you are reading the wrong man.) Read more >>
Customers don’t typically frequent strip clubs for the drinks. But on October 20, Los Angeles cocktail lovers may be tempted to visit Cheetahs, a Los Feliz strip club. That’s because mixologist Matthew Biancaniello recently announced that he will guest bartend there that night. Biancaniello is known for his farmers’ market-inspired drinks and the creative boozy ice creams he makes for L.A. ice cream shop Scoops.
While it's a smart idea for mixologists to share their talents outside of bars, there are plenty of places we'd like to drink great cocktails where nobody is baring anything let alone all. Here are a few personal requests for New York mixologists.
Phil Ward’s palomas at the movie theater.
While some theaters do offer bar service, the average multiplex could benefit from expert tequila drinks. At Phil Ward’s Mayahuel, one of the best snacks to get with his fizzy, grapfruity, salt-rimmed Paloma is popcorn topped with cotija cheese and ancho chile. It’s almost as if Ward was planning a theatrical pop-up all along.
Tristan Willey’s high-tech cocktails at the Apple store.
The Booker + Dax bartender would bring a legitimate genius element to Apple's Genius Bar, where one colleague recently had to make repeat visits simply to replace a pair of headphones. Customers could test the new iPhone 5S camera while Willey carbonates gin and juice or centrifuges rum and bananas, and consuming alcohol would make the inevitable wait to get one a bit more bearable.
Jason Mendenhall’s kale margarita at the gym.
Restaurateur Danny Meyer recently started offering a line of juices called Creative Juice at some Equinox gym locations. The organic green juice combines kale, kohlrabi, spinach and swiss chard. Sounds like the start of a delicious, vegetel cocktail like Mendenhall’s Garden Variety Margarita at The Wayland: tequila with fresh kale and ginger juice. Danny, meet Jason. Jason, Danny. You two should talk.
Sean Muldoon’s pre-Prohibition cocktails at vintage clothing shops.
Vintage fashion calls for beautiful old-timey cocktails. At The Dead Rabbit, Muldoon serves an array of pre-Prohibtion cocktails like a Grandieur punch from 1888, which is ladled into lovely, antique porcelain teacups.