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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Biscuit Overload

Lard or butter? Milk or buttermilk? The secret to perfect biscuits is hotly contested and every Southern home cook has an opinion. But these days, chefs from all over the country are joining in the conversation, digging through old church cookbooks and grandma’s recipe box to find the perfect version. From tender, high-rise biscuits at Hominy Grill in Charleston, to chef John Gorham’s lightly sweetened specimens with seasonal fruit compote, here are the best biscuits in the U.S.

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F&W Video Feed

Israeli Food Freestyle

Live from the streets of Tsfat, Israel, it's Ari Lesser freestyling about kosher food and vegetarianism in this week's video of the week:  

 


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What Chefs Are Eating

Barnacles, Burgers & Balthazar

Gooseneck Barnacles

Want to know what goes on behind closed kitchen doors? F&W does some digging and finds out what chefs are eating and cooking. Here, what they’ve enjoyed this past week.

SoCal Specialties: On a trip to Southern California, Portland chef Jenn Louis enjoyed two regional obsessions: an In-N-Out burger, animal style, and an array of chicken tacos made even better with bacon.

Barnacles: Jamie Bissonnette prepared some percebes al vapor (gooseneck barnacles) at the new New York City location of Toro—possibly inspired by a meal he had with Ken Oringer at Etxebarri during their dream trip to Spain.

Soft Shell Crab: At his seafood centric Borgne restaurant in New Orleans, chef John Besh photographs chef Brian Landry’s ultra-crispy Louisiana soft shell crab sandwich.

Old-School Terrine: At Lafayette, Andrew Carmellini presents the rustic “OG oxtail and foie gras terrine.”

Classic Ham and Cheese: While visiting New York City, Los Angeles chef Vinny Dotolo dined at Balthazar where he ate a crusty, gooey ham-and-cheese croissant.

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F&W Eats

F&W Editors: Crashing Kitchens and Sampling 'Shrooms

We eat and we drink...a lot. Whether dining out at fantastic new restaurants or cooking at home with the season's best ingredients, the F&W team lives to eat and share (well, virtually). Here, highlights from editors' dining adventures on social media.

Here are our social media highlights of what we're eating and drinking to make sure you don't go hungry:

Kate Krader headed to Momofuku for some spicy miso smoked chicken ramen.

Justin Chapple cooked up a lasagna duo, one vegetarian and one with meat.

Kirsten Stamn went to the James Beard Foundation's Taste America and crashed the kitchen.

James Pomerantz embraced autumn by making roast chicken with chanterelles, japanese turnips and kale.

Dana Cowin sampled Chef Corey Lee's marinated mushroom salad with Asian pears.

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America's Most Wanted

Mourad Lahlou’s Flaky, Meaty Basteeya

Mourad Lahlou’s Basteeya

At San Francisco’s Aziza, chef Mourad Lahlou serves beautifully reinvented Moroccan dishes like his much-loved Duck Confit Basteeya. “A classic bastilla is pretty much a potpie: a meat stew topped with sweetened and spiced ground almonds, all covered in flaky warka dough (a lot like phyllo),” Lahlou explains. “I've always found it one-dimensional and too sweet, when there should be a balance of sweet and savory.” At Aziza, Lahlou makes his version with confited duck legs, which are cured overnight in ras el hanout (a blend of North African spices) then slow-cooked in duck fat. “We mix the tender confited meat with caramelized onions and raisins, and then wrap them in phyllo, with toasted almonds ground up with cinnamon and orange blossom water. It comes to the plate in a warm, tidy phyllo package, with all the aromas locked inside, so it looks like a present.” Served with a tart verjus crème fraîche, the dish comes with seasonal vegetables like roasted turnips in fall. “Every bite has a little surprise,” Lahlou says. “It's savory, moist, tender. It has crunch. It has everything that you would want in a dish.”

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Join celebrity chefs, renowned winemakers and epicurean insiders at the culinary world’s most spectacular weekend, the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen, June 20-22.