Eighties Revival Special Part 3: Gordon Gekko, the Wall Street financial villain who symbolized the decadence of the Eighties, is back: Director Oliver Stone has just started filming Wall Street 2. Relive Gekko’s excess with luxe hors d’oeuvres like pancetta-wrapped mussels, goat cheese-stuffed mushrooms, and deeply savory prosciutto-fontina pinwheels (pictured).
How do you keep some of the world’s most innovative and crazy foodies entertained? As the kickoff dinner last night for Le Fooding D’Amour Paris-New York
revealed, you serve them incredible food cooked by the talented crew at Brooklyn's Vinegar Hill House, like whole roasted German trout with green beans and guanciale
-and-crème-fraîche pizza. You pair the food with lots of Veuve Clicquot Champagne (seven cases were consumed!). And you set up a pétanque
court, enlist a singing accordion player and hire a seriously good balloon-animal-hat maker.
My table unanimously voted my hat, a unicorn-like crown, as the most outrageous creation of the night (though David Chang’s gold-and-black tower was a close runner-up). Unfortunately, when Daniel Boulud asked to try on my balloon hat, he popped it!
Click here for more party photos.
© Adam Schneider/ Courtesy of Veuve Clicquot
David Chang rocks a balloon hat at Vinegar Hill House.
The much-hyped two-night event Le Fooding D’Amour Paris-New York
officially starts tonight. But last night, members of Le Fooding—the irreverent French foodie group
—gathered at Brooklyn’s Vinegar Hill House
for a kickoff dinner sponsored by Veuve Clicquot. Also in attendance: some of NYC’s best chefs and a mix of socialites, celebrities and food lovers like cookbook author Katie Lee
, jewelry designer and actor Waris Ahluwalia, Maroon 5 guitarist James Valentine and Vena Cava designer Sophie Buhai. If last night’s event is any indication, a carnival-like 48 hours are ahead of us. Just check out the photo below (more explanation to come later today).
© Alessandra Bulow
Gagnaire's amazing "Zezette" mushroom broth.
Sure, my colleagues ate breakfast with chef-god Pierre Gagnaire
the other day. I did them one better—I ate a meal that he himself cooked. As a preview of the menu he'll be serving at Twist at the Mandarin Oriental
in Las Vegas, opening in December, he hosted a lunch in the 36th floor ballroom of the hotel’s New York City location, overlooking Central Park.
The meal started with an amazing dish that I'd never seen anything like before—lightly fried strips of Dover sole with spinach, accompanied by bowls of white vegetable velouté and bocconcini ice cream. Gagnaire topped the fish with a large, very thin disk of "Kientzheim" butter—a funny name for a butter he flavors with reduced fish stock, shallots and Champagne—that melts into the fish when warm sauce is poured on top.
Another dish, named "Zezette" after a good friend of his, was an earthy-sweet and rich mushroom broth (pictured) served with roasted duck, braised turnips (which turn deep pink after soaking in beet juice and Campari) and "Yoyo," basmati rice–Parmesan gratin named after his friend Yolanda, who also makes this dish.
Now I'm back in my cubicle, dreaming about my incredible experience and thinking that I know exactly what I'd call a dish named after Pierre Gagnaire: “Genius!”
In London, Ilse Crawford’s incredible design firm, Studioilse
, is hosting a series of "Kitchen Table Talks"
at Leila’s Shop
restaurant, starting tonight and running through October. Crawford has gathered a Who’s Who of design, food and eco-mindedness to discuss the link between growing food and building community. The lineup includes Randolph Hodgson, founder of Neal’s Yard Dairy
; Dennis Paphitis, founder of cult beauty brand Aesop
; and Tristram Stuart, author of Waste: Uncovering the Global Food Scandal
. Click here
for dates and details.
At the London Design Festival
, which runs through this weekend, prolific Brit designer Ilse Crawford
debuted her new furniture collection, cheekily named Seating for Eating
. The solid chestnut settles (long, high-backed benches), stools and benches, made by De La Espada
, were inspired by vernacular English furniture. The collection will be will be at the restaurant, Leila’s Shop
, (for viewing and seating) through November 1.
Eighties Revival Special Part 2: The Eighties might have brought about some questionable food trends (like confusing fusion), but some dishes have stood the test of time. Here, new renditions of popular Eighties dishes like pan-roasted salmon panzanella (bread salad) (pictured), sun-dried-tomato and pesto risotto, and roasted redfish flavored with garlic, parsley and lemon—a simplified, modernized take on the then-ubiquitous blackened redfish.
I'm of the belief that a scoop of vanilla ice cream is a great addition to many types of fizzy beverages-both non-alcoholic and alcoholic alike-beyond the usual (albeit delightful) root beer.
Since summer seems to have returned for an encore in New York this week, I can put down the Oktoberfest drinks and justify sipping fizzy beverages of the blueberry variety-and what goes well with blueberries? Vanilla ice cream. I recently discovered Maine Root's all-natural Blueberry Soda, which tastes just like fresh-picked berries and practically begs for a scoop of vanilla. For an adult float, top off a pint of Bluepoint Brewery's Blueberry Ale. This Long Island brewer adds 132 pounds of blueberries to every batch, giving the ale lots of berry flavor without too much sweetness.
Once summer's gone for good, I will continue my float experimentation with fall's favorite squash. Maine Root's just about to release a new soda flavor: Pumpkin Pie, which sounds like a Thanksgiving treat to me. And Dogfish Head brewery's rich, nutmeggy Punkin Ale might be a great fit for a scoop or two as well.
Inaki Aizpitarte makes his toquera for Le Fooding
Before the Le Fooding crew came to town, I had no idea what a toquera was. Now I have a new obsession. Alexandre Cammas
, who’s here to launch Le Fooding d’Amour Paris-New York
—the two-night extravaganza courtesy of the irreverent French foodie group that features crazy-good New York chefs cooking alongside crazy-good Paris chefs
, with plenty of Michel Chapoutier wine and LCD Sound System
and Paul Sevigny
DJing—introduced me to it. (The Le Fooding event, which takes place September 25 and 26 at P.S. 1 in Long Island City is mostly sold out of their $30 tickets—a few are still available if you get there early.)
Anyway, la toquera is a French invention of a chef making a cooking video while holding a camera (toque + camera). By necessity, the recipes are short and easy to follow and invariably hilarious. Le Fooding’s French website has several, from pastry icon Pierre Hermé’s wasabi-and-grapefruit “emotion” to Zoe’s cake from Pierre Jancou of the amazing wine bar Racines. My favorite so far is Toquera #19, Oriental mussels from Inaki Aizpitarte of Le Chateaubriand, who’s in NYC for Le Fooding and who manages to combine his very obvious cooking skill with his equally obvious distaste for being on camera.
Celebrate the remake of 1980’s iconic arts-school film Fame, opening tomorrow, with dishes by iconic Eighties chefs like Wolfgang Puck’s grilled steaks with sweet-spicy hoisin-ginger sauce (pictured); Johanne Killeen and George Germon’s tangy pasta with shredded zucchini, yogurt and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese; and Jeremiah Tower’s vegetable ragout with fresh herbs. Stay tuned for more dishes that celebrate the Eighties later today and tomorrow.
More Dishes by Legendary Chefs
- 10 dishes by F&W’s Hall of Fame Best New Chefs like Suzanne Goin’s mustard-crusted lamb, Shea Gallante’s meat loaf with red wine glaze, and Nancy Silverton’s dulce de leche ice cream pie