Even though I live in NYC, I obsessively follow the L.A.-based Kogi Korean taco truck
(more on that in our "10 Best Restaurant Dishes 2009" story in the upcoming December issue). Now I have to figure out how to also keep track of their newest toy: the bright orange Scion Kogi xD Mobile Kitchen
made just for Kogi by Toyota. It’s fully loaded in the back with a grill, sink and special grilling-tools compartment (and don’t forget the Alpine sound system
). Kogi co-founder Roy Choi
promised I could ride shotgun next time I go to L.A. Meanwhile, I’ll keep watching the YouTube video
inside the mobile kitchen, including a demo of Kogi’s newest, killer-sounding dish, Silver Peso Pancakes made with Korean flat chives and sesame oil/leaf/seeds, with their special chile vinaigrette.
In Jonathan Safran Foer’s new book, Eating Animals (Little, Brown and Company), out today, the vegetarian writer ponders the ethics of eating meat. Here, outstanding dishes for the vegan, vegetarian and almost-vegetarian:
• Vegan: 12 great vegan dishes like a vegetable curry that gets its richness from coconut milk (right), an ultrasimple black bean soup with crispy tortillas, and a spicy chickpea salad, a twist on the classic Indian street food called chana chaat
• Vegetarian: 15 excellent vegetarian dishes like a warm spaghetti-squash salad, a cassoulet of slow-cooked leeks with meaty porcini mushrooms and cranberry beans, and a chanterelle and fontina frittata
• Pescatarian: 15 delicious fish dishes like snapper with lime-coriander broth, Provençal fish soup, and salmon sashimi with ginger and hot sesame oil
I've always thought Mai Tais were kind of campy, something fun to have with roast pork shoulder and pineapple. Now I know better. Recently my friend Joe Raffa, a Hawaiian native, mixed the world's greatest Mai Tai from his extensive rum collection. He calls it the $100 Mai Tai because it would cost $100 to buy bottles of all the necessary ingredients. But the drink itself costs much less. And with last week's news about the growing GDP, it seemed ok to post. Especially because it's just so good: caramelly yet tart, smooth yet bright, perfectly balanced — and supersmart (case in point: instead of Cointreau, Joe uses Rhum Clement Creole Shrubb, an orange liqueur made from rhum agricole instead of neutral spirits. "It keeps the rum with the rum," Joe says. And in place of ordinary simple syrup, he uses Depaz cane syrup, a Caribbean sweetener gives the Mai Tai a richer maple note.) The best part, Joe is José Andrés' chef de cuisine at Oyamel in DC, and has been dropping hints that his boss should open a Hawaiian restaurant in DC serving roast pork and really good Mai Tais. All I can say is, José, please, listen up. Recipe after the jump.
© Ellen Silverman
Michael Anthony is a good source for grown up candy.
To end my week of candy obsession
, here are a few people and situations deserving of special recognition.Most Candy-Obsessed Chef
. I’m not sure that he eats more candy than I do, but his list of favorites is prodigious. They are, in no order: M&M Peanuts, Planters Peanut Bar, Hershey Almond Bar, Snickers (frozen), Hershey Almond Kisses, Twix, Butterfinger, Almond Joy, Reeses Peanut Butter Cup.
Most Unexpected Trick-or-Treat Spot
—Soho House New York
. Chef Neil Ferguson
reports that last year some 200 kids came through the restaurant—on the 6th floor of a private club. In the course of offering up all that candy, Ferguson got addicted to Sour Patch Kids. ("If you have a tough day, you can bite their heads off and not feel bad about it," he says.) My question: How did the kids get past the doorman?Best Candy for Parents
’s Michael Anthony
handed out GT's chocolate-covered pumpkin toffee.
© Courtesy of Frappe Inc. and the TV series Spain...On the Road Again / Eric Rhee
Scrounging for a last-minute Halloween costume? Get inspiration from some of our favorite chefs’ ensembles in F&W's "Dress Like a Chef" slideshow
, like Mario Batali's
now-iconic look: red wig pulled in a low ponytail, baggy shorts and his signature orange clogs from Crocs.
© Quentin Bacon
Marathoner Joe Bastianich's white bean stew with swiss chard and tomatoes
While my colleague Kate Krader is on a permanent sugar high this week from her pre-Halloween candy binge, I am overloading on carbs in preparation for the New York City Marathon. The race takes place this Sunday, the day after Halloween. This year’s field of 40,000 runners, the largest in history, includes a number of food and wine world stars who’ve been juggling 20-mile training runs with kitchen duties and late-night pasta binges. Mark Bittman, the New York Times Minimalist columnist, has been swapping cooking tips for training tips with America’s fastest woman marathoner, Deena Kastor (rumor has it she’s shopping around a cookbook while in town for the race). F&W Best New Chef 2005 Daniel Humm of NYC’s Eleven Madison Park has been training with a running coach from Kenya to help him beat his insanely fast time from last year.
I’ve been following winemaker and restaurateur Joe Bastianich’s game plan, fueling myself with the complex-carb-heavy recipes he shared with F&W in our October issue and throwing back an occasional beer (for more carbs).
For more pre-marathon carbo-loading recipe ideas, click here.
John Irving’s latest novel, Last Night at Twisted River (Random House), out this week, revolves around cook Dominic Baciagalupo and his son Danny, who hail from a New Hampshire logging and sawmill settlement. Here, stellar New England dishes like chicken stew with cider and parsnips (pictured), molasses-sweetened baked beans, and cinnamon-and ginger-flavored Indian pudding.
© Emily Kaiser
Matthew Cox (with spurtle) and Dennis Gilliam (with oats) of Bob's Red Mill
The oatmeals from Bob's Red Mill
in Oregon are a longtime staff favorite: Tina Ujlaki swears by their steel-cut oats, and their extra-thick rolled oats are all Grace Parisi uses in her granola
. This month, the company beat out competitors from 16 other countries to win Scotland's World Porridge-Making Championship, becoming the first Americans ever to take home the coveted Golden Spurtle (a medieval Scottish oatmeal-stirring tool). Ordinarily the spurtle is stored in the pub of the tiny town that hosts the competition, but it will be in America for the year. Matt Cox and Dennis Gilliam of the winning team stopped by the F&W offices last week to display the trophy and to drop off a bag of their oats. I'm making some
As I’ve already mentioned
, I have a new hero: Paul Rudnick
, who, in a New York Times
profile, revealed that he lives on candy
. (Among his insights: Halloween is about free candy, not diet tips—i.e., people who “dare to put apples in trick-or-treaters' bags.”) He and writer David Colman
stopped at the candy aisle of the Food Emporium, Li-Lac
and the Hershey store
. I wish he’d gone to Jacques Torres
, which is my vision of chocolate utopia. For Halloween, Jacques has upped the ante, creating new bars like Monster Mash (a dark chocolate mash-up with Cheerios and corn flakes) and Creepy Crawlers (white chocolate with dark-chocolate-covered Rice Krispies). And Jacques is promising Grinch-themed chocolates for Christmas—just about the time I’ll have run out of Halloween candy.
© Photo courtesy of Bon Appetit Management Co.
When I was heading to Chicago for a long weekend, I asked friends what was a must-see. Everyone mentioned the new Modern Wing at the Art Institute of Chicago,
designed by star architect Renzo Piano, which opened in May. An added appeal for me: The museum recruited chef Tony Mantuano
fame to open the Italian-centric Terzo Piano
there. The name refers to its third-floor location, and it's worthwhile to walk up the sleek white bridge from Millennium Park for the fantastic view instead of entering by elevator inside the museum. The handmade pastas were lovely, especially the restaurant's version of spaghetti carbonara with Nueske's bacon, sheep's-milk cheese and a runny poached egg. Do save room for the cheese cart, with many of the dozen or so options from Midwest producers (my husband's favorite was an aged goat's-milk tomme from Indiana's Capriole
). The restaurant serves lunch every day and dinner Thursdays, when the museum is open late (and museum entrance is free from 5 to 8 p.m.).