Musicians often cover songs made famous by other musicians they admire—and sometimes those covers can rival the original. Think Whitney Houston’s version of Dolly Parton’s “I Will Always Love You” or Jimi Hendrix’s take on Bob Dylan’s “All Along the Watchtower.” Chefs do the same thing.
At Forage in Salt Lake City, chef Viet Pham is known for his soft scrambled egg, which is a take on David Kinch’s famed Arpège egg served at Manresa in Los Gatos, California—an egg yolk poached in the shell with maple syrup, sherry vinegar and chives. “When we opened Forage, we tried to copy the Kinch egg, and failed every single time,” Pham says. “So instead of poaching the whole yolk in the egg, we ended up scrambling the yolk with the same elements.”
Pham’s version became almost as popular as the dish he was attempting to re-create. “Now we can’t get rid of it or people get upset,” he says.