The Next It Food

Posted July 20, 2007

Now that Justin Timberlake’s entrée into BBQ might imply the trend has (please??) run its course, I wanted to suggest a source for the next meaty cuisine to take over the Big Apple: Slovakia. Specifically, the country’s sausage, klobasa. On the grill. Nestled between two soft slices of rye sandwich bread. With pickles. And mustard. And horseradish.

Last night a friend had a birthday party at Astoria’s Bohemian Hall & Beer Garden, which, as the name suggests, proudly boasts both Czech and Slovak roots. In the garden, they grill klobasas and sell them for only $9, with fries. While ordinarily sausage should be poked or slit in some fashion to prevent it from exploding over the fire, at the Bohemian, the cooks so heavily cross-hatch the meat that the sausage drapes over the grill like an unclasped pearl necklace of porky goodness.

My friends and I sat under a tree on a bench in the humid July heat and wolfed them down, along with cool draft Krusovice Imperial lagers. In a bit of joyful incongruity, a local band, Harry & the Potters, were blasting away with a pretty great brass section. But those klobasas were the real hot item of the night.

The Dish
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