Writer Stephen Whitlock extols sourdough waffles cooked over live fire, smoked-reindeer sandwiches and more proudly Swedish dishes.
Swedes and Danes have a long-standing and fierce rivalry. Over the centuries, they've fought countless wars, with Sweden generally viewed as the stronger imperial power. Yet, since Noma opened in 2003, Copenhagen has prevailed as Scandinavia's culinary destination, leaving Swedes to fume—and simultaneously try to score a table. Now, Stockholm is rediscovering its pride in its own culinary traditions, with new restaurants rethinking husmanskost—traditional Swedish food.
When Ekstedt (ekstedt.nu) opened in 2011, it was booked for months. Once I secured a reservation, I found a room furnished with copper that caught the light from wood-fired ovens. Dishes like mackerel with smoked parsley are wonderfully delicate, while sourdough waffles with cloudberries are gently sweet.