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New York’s fancy new baseball stadiums may have some stellar (and pricey) new dining options, but there is something to be said for the old-school days of watching a ball game in rickety bleacher seats, with a beer and a hot dog. That’s why I have a soft spot for Boston’s Fenway Park. The Red Sox’s 97-year-old stadium has preserved the best of the old days by making subtle rather than grand enhancements. Case in point: The big F&B shake up this year wasn't a celebrity chef outpost, but simply a new Fenway Frank. The new dog, made by the local, family-run company Kayem, has caused debate in the Boston food world.
I was recently in town for a game and tried it myself, then I asked some of Boston’s chefs and bartenders what they think of the new Fenway Frank and what they’d serve if Fenway ever turned into the next Citifield.
Ken Oringer, chef at Clio and La Verdad Taqueria
“I’ve been to a couple of games, and the new frank is definitely quite an improvement: meatier, tastier. It has a nice snap to it and is well seasoned. It’s a darn good dog, and hot dogs are probably one of my favorite foods.”
Oringer’s awesome taqueria is right across from the ballpark (and wins my vote for best pre- or post-game place to grab a drink and a bite). What would he put on the menu at Fenway? “La Verdad’s cola-marinated carne asada tacos and the chicken milanesa torta, a messy sandwich stuffed with chicken cutlets, refried beans, molasses-chipotles and Oaxacan string cheese.”
Tony Maws, an F&W BNC 2005 and chef at Craigie on Main
“The one game I had tickets to was rained out, so I haven't tried the new dog yet. But if I was cooking at Fenway, I'd serve pork bellies! Talk about ‘batter up’--I'd say it'd be ‘belly up!’”
Tom Schlesinger-Guidelli, mixologist at Craigie on Main
“I went a couple of weeks ago to the game and I ordered one and it was so good I even ordered a second. The old hot dog was smaller. This new one seemed plumper and had the slightest mustard seed taste to it. Overall, I would say improvement--moist and plumper, though I will admit the steamed dogs at the ballpark never compete with those grilled at home.”
Lydia Shire, chef at Scampo
Shire might be the most die-hard hot dog lover I’ve ever met. She got her first taste of the new Fenway Frank while watching the Sox sweep the Yankees this past weekend. The verdict: “Just so you know, I won a hot-dog-eating contest once and outate eight guys. I am the truest fan of all hot dogs. I made a beeline for the dogs when I got to the game and it was quite delicious. I think the Fenway Frank is now a winner. It tasted like an all-beef hot dog -- I happen to love the regular Kayem natural casing dog that has pork in it, because I worship pork. The best thing that happened while I watched the game in the EMC club was when I ordered the hot dog with extra butter on the roll they did it!”