Chefs are creating a new pasta paradigm by resurrecting obscure recipes and inventing radical ones
Never-Ending Noodle, Philadelphia
Reviving maccheroni alla mugnaia, a preparation from Abruzzo, Italy, chef Joe Cicala of Le Virtù deftly rolls and stretches dough into a single noodle up to 100 feet long. He tosses it with olive oil, garlic and hot pepper and serves it family-style on a giant wooden board. 1927 E. Passyunk Ave.
Carbonara Coil, Chicago
Instead of tossing spaghetti with carbonara sauce, chef Jason Vincent of Nightwood seals the sauce inside a six-foot-long sheet of pasta, then coils the snakelike tube on the plate and serves it with shellfish, lemon and cured egg yolk. 2119 S. Halsted St.
Sanguine Spaghetti, Chicago
At Paul Kahan's The Publican, chef de cuisine Cosmo Goss presents his take on surf-and-turf: He dyes pasta dough with pig blood and serves the dish with mussels, sea beans and favas. 837 W. Fulton Market
Hundred-Layer Lasagna, New York City
Chef Mark Ladner of Del Posto alternates 50 paper-thin pasta sheets with 50 smears of Bolognese sauce, inserting skewers throughout to prevent the delicate strata from sliding apart. 85 Tenth Ave.