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Urban Picnicking in Boston

Boston’s South End keeps getting hipper. Every time I return to the charming neighborhood in my college town, I discover new chocolate shops, design stores and restaurants.

Last weekend I was in the city for the Red Sox game (and Celtics celebration), and even though I was craving a Fenway frank, I made time to swing by the much-buzzed-about South End restaurant the Beehive. The space and concept were inspired by and named for a 1920s artists’ residence in the Montparnasse district of Paris, and the downstairs truly feels like an artist’s studio, with live music performances and local art hanging on the walls. Despite the fabulously designed interiors, my friends and I were lured outdoors to a patio table because we wanted to try the new “urban picnic” menu.

My friends and I were handed a list of about a dozen simple yet delicious-sounding items, and after much back and forth, we checked off the Sicilian tuna with artichokes and sun-dried tomatoes, Manchego cheese with honey, tuna tartare and seasonal red cherries. Within minutes, our server dropped an oversize picnic basket on our table. Tucked inside were adorable glass jars containing each of our dishes, along with two butcher-paper-wrapped French baguettes. After a round of Beehive juleps (made with two rums and a drop of honey) arrived, we passed around jars, taking forkfuls from each and battling for the last scoops of our favorites (there aren’t plates, so things got a little messy, which was part of the fun). It was the perfect prelude to a game—satisfying, yet not so overwhelming that I couldn't make room for my ballpark dog by the sixth inning.

Montauk’s Endless Summer Begins

My super plugged-in colleague Kate Krader is usually the one name-dropping celebrities and rock stars but this weekend I found myself uncharacteristically star-struck while out in Montauk, probably the least celebrity-filled town in the Hamptons.

I was there to volunteer at the second annual Beach Rescue Mission sponsored by the Surfrider Foundation and Barefoot Wine.  Picking up garbage alongside me at Ditch Plains – Montauk’s best surfing beach - was the much-buzzed-about-of-late singer/songwriter Tristan Prettyman and nearly 200 other surfers and eco-crusaders. Surfrider and Barefoot Wine thanked all of us do-gooders by throwing a killer after-party at the newly opened Second House Tavern with unlimited wine (The new Barefoot Moscato could not be restocked quickly enough!) and incredible performances from Tristan and headliner Garrett Dunton – better known as, G. Love from the eclectic hip-hop,funk, psychedelica, blues trio G. Love & Special Sauce.

The night before I was hanging with G. Love at the much-hyped (all of it well deserved) Surf Lodge where Sam Talbot, a fan favorite from season two of Bravo’s Top Chef, is serving serious, summer-style food in a space that’s a total throw-back to 70’s surf culture and Bruce Brown’s iconic Endless Summer movie. G. Love, surprised me with his sophisticated palate (his mom’s a cooking instructor and his sister works for wine importer Daniel Johnnes) and we shared notes on our meals: sweet corn, peeky toe crab salad got a major flavor boost from the brilliant addition of marinated nectarines; lobster rolls were untraditionally served on hamburger buns, making them less messy to devour; and striped bass prepared in an herb and roasted garlic broth was light, yet insanely flavorful.

The Surf Lodge’s excellent food, super laid-back vibe, lakeside bonfire and 3,000 square-foot deck drew our group back for an after, after party Saturday night which went into the late hours with dancing and endless, Endless Summer cocktails (a dangerously delicious concoction that mixes Snow Queen vodka, Chardonnay, seedless red grapes, simple syrup and fresh lemon juice). G. Love summed up the weekend best saying: “We cleaned the beach, we drank some wine and we rocked out in Montauk.”


Wine Before Food

On Saturday, the Wall Street Journal reported on a new twist in the trend of abolishing menus. Instead of giving the chef total control of the meal, the power is now being placed in the hands of the sommelier. This wine-before-food concept is being played out at Il Vino, a new Paris restaurant opened by Enrico Bernardo, the former sommelier at the Four Seasons Hotel George V. Diners select wines from a seasonal menu that changes about every two weeks, and then the chef cooks a complementary food pairing. Could this be the wine bar of the future? The restaurant of the future? Bernardo seems confident that the idea is more than a passing trend. He opened a second branch of Il Vino in at the French ski resort Courchevel, and the Journal reported that he is contemplating opening a third in New York City or London.

Preview of a Dream Chinese Restaurant

Anyone who's read my blog posts (or even just talked to me in passing), knows I have a major thing for the tiny NYC chainlet, Grand Sichuan. I've been faithfully going to their Hell's Kitchen location—and then their Chelsea spot when the Hell's Kitchen one closed—once a week for as long as I can remember. As New York Magazine just reported, their newest spot, in Manhattan's West Village, will open at the end of the month. For those who can't wait until then (guilty), the Leroy Street spot will be serving a (free!) tasting of their menu starting tomorrow through Thursday at 7PM.

 

   

Hugo’s in Portland, ME, goes high-tech and casual

In the May issue of Food & Wine, Rob Evans, an F&W Best New Chef 2004, shared highlights from his honeymoon—a 25-state motorcycle trip (he rides a 2000 Triumph Tiger, and his wife, a BMW GS650).

Over the course of a month, Evans and his wife covered 7,000 miles of national parks, eating in small towns throughout the West and Midwest. Experiences at places like the North Fork Brewery, a brewery, beer shrine, pizzeria and wedding chapel on Mt. Baker Highway in Deming, Washington, and Binkley’s, a fine-dining restaurant with a shockingly good tasting menu in Cave Creek, Arizona (“I would fly from Maine just to eat there!” says Evans), inspired him to reinvent Hugo’s, his fine-dining restaurant in Portland, Maine, to reflect the direction he feels American dining is headed. “The trip didn’t influence my food, but it did influence my perception of the dining experience,” says Evans.

The new Hugo’s opens its doors tomorrow. Evans tossed the table linens in an effort to lose the “poshness” and create a more comfortable atmosphere. He’s also added a snack menu to the prix fixe format that was previously offered.

Evans is particularly excited about the new bar area. A silent, flat viewing screen hangs behind the bar will be put up at the end of the year, allowing customers to watch as chefs prepare their food in the kitchen. “We’re combining the two hottest concepts, the feel of an open kitchen and the visual pleasure of watching food being created, without the negative aspect of a loud dining room. It’s the open kitchen of the new millennium,” says Evans.

What Makes a Wine Bar a Wine Bar?

Chef Jody Williams, who recently opened Gottino, a fabulous new “gastroteca” in NYC’s West Village, has strong feelings about what exactly makes a wine bar a wine bar. (Note that she calls Gottino a “gastroteca” and not a wine bar). After a terrific experience that included delicious bigné (warm, savory beignets) and ciambottini (a vinegary stew of vegetables and soppressata) as well as a blood orange salad, cheeses and a few different wines, I have to disagree. In my mind, her latest project embodies everything a wine bar should aspire to: a cozy atmosphere; a laid-back rather than bustling vibe; a wine list that offers new experiences via small producers and esoteric grapes or regions at a range of price points; a knowledgeable staff that can guide you through the choices; and delicious food that can be shared with friends or selfishly enjoyed on one’s own.

I can understand Williams’ distaste for the “wine bar” label, considering the recent abuse of the term. Since January, new spaces seem to be opening weekly and declaring themselves wine bars, while their personalities could not be more distinct.

Tucked away in Hell’s Kitchen is the newly opened wine bar Xai Xai. It hits so many of the right notes: Bob Marley and Sublime set a mellow mood in the tiny, candle-lit space; the wine list is exclusively South African, so my friends and I truly got to experience the range of wines coming out of that region and were particularly impressed by Tumara’s earthy Pinotage from Stellenbosch. The South African theme is carried over to the small plates menu, but unfortunately the biltong (a variety of dried meats that include ostrich) and garlic droë wors (dried, coriander-seed spiced sausage) and mimi “bunny chow” with lamb bredie (a type of stew) – while interesting – left us hungry and in search of a spot for dinner afterwards.

Superstar chef Daniel Boulud’s new Upper West Side wine bar, Bar Boulud, will hardly attract a laid-back crowd with its location across from Lincoln Center, but on a recent visit I found it less stuffy than I anticipated. A hip playlist gave the sophisticated setting an air of fun, and as expected the food was spectacular. I shared a plate of charcuterie with friends but wouldn’t give up a bite of my mushroom-stuffed skate. And the sommelier’s wine suggestions were spot-on.

The half-block long Accademia di Vino, the Upper East Side offshoot of ‘Cesca across town, has an extensive wine list and versatile menu  – you can snack on salumi and cheese or make a meal of thin-crust pizza or pastas - but the vibe is the antithesis of what I want in a perfect wine bar. The downstairs restaurant is cavernous and busy while the street-level bar portion has the air of a sports bar, with TVs playing football and hockey on my last visit and a raucous noise level. I left feeling a bit defeated, but then realized perhaps there is no cookie-cutter mold for today's wine bar. As the popularity of wine expands, more and more spots are opening to cater to budding oenophiles. I have friends I wouldn't dare bring to a Daniel Boulud establishment, yet Accademio di Vino would be the perfect non-intimidating place to introduce them to the sometimes daunting world of wine. And sometimes it's nice to have a glass of Rioja while watching the game....I wonder if they'll be showing the Super Bowl this weekend?

Where to Eat When Holiday Delays Hit

The stress of traveling at this time of year almost makes me want to skip the turkey and pumpkin pie and stay home. I’ve come to accept that traffic, delays and flight cancellations are inevitable. And I'm only going from New York to New Jersey – but that means I’ll be waiting in the dreary Penn Station or worse, the Port Authority Bus Terminal – two places in dire need of makeovers.

I’ve always been envious of the New York and Connecticut commuters who get to take advantage of the many food options at Grand Central Station. But last week, while waiting for a friend to get into town, I discovered Metro Marche, a gem of a restaurant tucked inside the Port Authority. We had planned to go to my favorite new burger and beer spot, Resto, but it was late, raining and we were starving so decided to stay put and this year-old, French-style bistro thoroughly impressed us both. I ordered an excellent burger topped with caramelized onions, gruyere served on a brioche roll that was accompanied by lightly salted hand cut fries. While it wasn’t Resto-quality, it was pretty close. And the ambitious beer list included some of my favorites: Saint Sylvester Trois Monts, Castelain Biere de Garde and Delirium Tremens. Was I embarrassed to admit to friends that I spent my Friday night hanging out at the Port Authority? A bit. Would I do it again? If I’m stuck waiting for my bus, without a doubt yes.

I’m lucky I don’t have far to go this holiday, but for people heading to the airport, here are some thoughts on the best food spots to take advantage of if you get stuck waiting:

*New York Magazine restaurant critic Adam Platt recently took a tour of New York’s airport restaurants. Read his verdict here.

*Five new eateries, including one from Todd English, opened last week in the busiest terminal of Boston’s Logan Airport.

*Jim Gullo, CBS’s How-to-Travel-Guru, raves about the food at Charlotte Douglas International Airport in North Carolina.

*Chowhound visitors had some pointed thoughts on which airport in the U.S. has the best food.  

*Need a last minute holiday gift for a food-snob friend? Food blogger Regina Schrambling went foraging for the best airport food to take home and came up with some great finds.

My Ultimate F&W Thanksgiving

We have tested some amazing holiday recipes in the F&W test kitchen over the years, and every year I make a few of them for my Thanksgiving table. This year I am planning to make all my favorites, past and present (though it's difficult to choose). From F&W's archives, I've put together my ideal Thanksgiving menu:

Hors d'Oeuvre & Cocktail:
Rosemary Gin Fizz
Mushroom and Fontina Crostini

Thanksgiving Spread:
Classic Roast Turkey
Chestnut Stuffing with Fennel
Serrano Ham and Arugula Salad with Pomegranate Salsa
Roasted Garlic-Parmigiano Broccoli
Maple Roasted Brussels Sprouts
Butternut Squash-Polenta Gratin

Warm Farro and Mushroom Salad with Sherry Vinaigrette 
Buttery Maple-Thyme Biscuits
Three-Cranberry Conserve

 

Dessert:
Apple Cake with Toffee Crust
Heirloom-Pear Hand Pies
Pumpkin Pudding with Mile-High Meringue

Great Balls of Rice!

Mid-October should bring hearty appetites, satisfied by soups and stews. It was, however, nearly 80° in Manhattan yesterday—not really soup or stew weather.  I've been desperate to try this adorable little Japanese  rice ball shop ,  Oms/b, that I first read about on one of my favorite blogs,  Midtown lunch  and yesterday was a perfect day to make the trek east.  
Among the tasty treats  I sampled were Chili  Shrimp Rice Balls that tasted like Cajun-shrimp-sushi (delicious); Chili Beef Balls that tasted like Sloppy-Joe-sushi (SO delicious);  and something called "Gorgeous Football Rice" which was seaweed  salad and rice-filled fried tofu skins (SO SO delicious)  All were so beautifully assembled.  It was lucky for me and my lunch companion that yesterday was their 4th anniversary so every one got a bright-pink-strawberry-creme-filled Swiss roll (artificially flavored of course) as a gift.

Dinner in the Slammer

My friend Katherine is a bit of a wild child. So she got a kick out of the fact that we celebrated her birthday last weekend over dinner in Boston’s old Charles Street Jail. After five years of renovations, the historic prison that once held famous inmates like James Michael Curley and Sacco and Vanzetti, and was eventually closed after a U.S. District Court deemed it unfit for prisoners, has been transformed into The Liberty Hotel – a super stylish boutique property that opened last month. I have to admit I was expecting hokey prison themed decor, but was surprised by the tasteful mix of original 19th century fixtures (exposed brick walls, catwalk planks, iron barred doors and windows) and contemporary design (enormous wrought iron chandeliers, murals of purple trees and thistle patterned wallpaper reminiscent of designs from Timorous Beasties). 

After making jokes about the restaurant name, CLINK, and the waiters' uniforms (each has a prison number on his or her shirt) we found ourselves unexpectedly wowed by a delicious meal. I was impressed by what chef Isadora Sarto (she spent five years working with Daniel Boulud) turned out of her open kitchen, especially when I learned that because the building is a national historic landmark Sarto has to cook her entire menu on electric stoves and induction heat. Everything is meant for sharing and the wine comes in three unusual tasting sizes: a half glass, one and one-half glasses; and two-thirds of a bottle. We nibbled our way through the dangerously addictive “smackerjacks” – truffled caramel popcorn dusted with smoked sea salt - and crispy fried pork cracklins that had a bit of a kick from lime and Thai basil. Our waiter told us the Liberty Ale-battered Ipswich clams were the best he’d ever had - and he grew up on the Cape. We agreed, and ordered seconds. The caramelized brussels sprouts with bacon lardons won over Kat, who insisted she hated the “little green cabbages,” and our main course, espresso braised shortribs, was so rich and flavorful it left us both in a delightful, gluttonous food haze, which we tried to shake off while watching the Red Sox game at the hotel lounge.

Run by Boston nightclub king Patrick Lyons, the lounge is aptly named Alibi and mug shots of stars like Frank Sinatra hang from the walls. Each photo is labeled with a legal charge (Sinatra's was adultery) and alibi of the accused (Frank said: “The broad was into it.”) The line to get in that night wrapped around the block, a sign that the new concept is filling a gap in the Boston social scene. I can only imagine what will happen when Boston culinary legend Lydia Shire opens her new Adam Tihany-designed restaurant, tentatively called Scampo, at the hotel's street level later this year.

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