The Magical Bread Course at Trentina in Cleveland

At Cleveland’s Trentina, the bread course is like an interactive performance piece. Its focus: a candle that emits a mysteriously beefy scent.

At Cleveland’s Trentina, the bread course is like an interactive performance piece. Its focus: a candle that emits a mysteriously beefy scent.

Trentina chef Jonathon Sawyer turns his restaurant’s bread course into a dramatic, almost magical experience. As guests sit down to one of the tasting menus, a waiter lights a small candle on the table that emits a savory aroma. Just as the melting candle threatens to overflow changed from “tablecloth” because there are no tablecloths at Trentina. The tables are mirrored, a server announces the bread course: semolina baguette and edible beef-tallow candle. Sawyer infuses rendered beef fat with rosemary, sage and thyme before molding it around a wick. Spreading animal fat on bread is an old practice, he explains; beef tallow was used in 18th-century England to moisten stale loaves. “And of course,” he says, “we can’t pretend to be the inventor of the candle.” 1903 Ford Dr.; restauranttrentina.com.

Here, the anatomy of Sawyer's magical bread course (pictured above):
1. Sumac
2. Maldon Sea Salt
3. Spicebush Berries
4. Beef Tallow
5. Semolina Baguette

Related: Quick Breads
5 Awesome Things That Happened When Ferran Adrià Came to Cleveland
Chefs' Weeknight Dinners

DownComment IconEmail IconFacebook IconGoogle Plus IconGrid IconInstagram IconLinkedin IconList IconMenu IconMinus IconPinterest IconPlus IconRss IconSave IconSearch IconShare IconShopping Cart IconSpeech BubbleSnapchat IconTumblr IconTwitter IconWhatsapp IconYoutube Icon