Why on earth is pop-up pioneer Ludo Lefebvre opening an old-school French bistro in Los Angeles? And why is he taking on the painstaking and ultratraditional work of French winemaking? The answers lie in Ludo’s native Burgundy.
No one’s ever accused Ludo Lefebvre of being a traditionalist.
He rose to fame with the irreverent brilliance of LudoBites, his now-legendary series of Los Angeles pop-up dinners. His 18-month-old restaurant, Trois Mec, is just as modern. Yet his new place, Petit Trois, shows off his love for classic Burgundian cooking. And he’s making Chablis the old-fashioned way with expat American Ray Walker. To understand what drives Lefebvre, Per-Anders Jörgensen tagged along on a homecoming trip to Burgundy.