When I think about Huertas, the excellent Spanish restaurant that opened last spring in Manhattan’s East Village, I think of small food. After all, the place specializes in tapas, like patatas bravas and huevas rotos, the last word in hangover food (potato strands fried with chorizo, topped with a poached egg).
Now, Huertas will make me think bigger. Starting this Wednesday night, on Jan. 14, the restaurant will serve a once-a-week large-format menu. Kicking off the dinners is a three-course Asturian Cider House meal with tortilla española as a starter. The main course is crispy slow-roasted chicken with pickled guindilla pepper sauce; alongside is a dish of fabada, or bean stew, studded with chunks of housemade chorizo and blood sausage. Chef Jonah Miller and his general manager, Nate Adler, were inspired to do large-format dinners when they toured northern Spain and ate at Casa Mingo, a cool cider house in Madrid. And so to accompany the platter of roast chicken, there are two kinds of Spanish cider: a light and crisp Isastegi and the very tart Villacubera. Like the entertaining Spanish wine Txakoli, these ciders are poured into a glass from high above to make the drink a little bit sparkling. And if you want to drink something besides cider (I did), Huertas has awesome vermouth on tap.
Here’s the intel you need: Dinners are $150; they serve up to six people. Seatings are every Wednesday at 6:30 and 9:30 p.m., beginning Jan. 14. Additional large-format dinners will start on Sundays beginning Feb. 9. Advance reservations are necessary through huertasnyc.com or by calling 212-228-4490.