Jump Back, Josko

By Ray Isle Posted July 18, 2007

Interesting & somewhat bizarre story in Wines & Vines yesterday about CA wine producer Dave Del Dotto's recent foray into fermenting Cabernet in clay amphorae (terra cotta jars that hold, in this case, about two tons of grapes each). The only other contemporary winemaker I know of who's pursued this particularly anachronistic winemaking method is Friuli's Josko Gravner—one of the prime movers of the semi-controversial microtrend of oxidative white wines. However, as always, there seems to be a wide philosophical gulf between some denizens of the Old World and the New, as evidenced by the following statements of intention.

Gravner:  "I am convinced that wine is a product of Nature, not of Man, whose role therefore is to accompany its maturation process while avoiding any artificial intervention."

Del Dotto: "I think [amphorae wines] could be a big wave. This is going to create a huge line of wines, because everything is going toward natural and organic and we're going to be right there. This has got a beautiful hook (marketing-wise)."

Hm. Well. All right then.

 

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