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After practically two weeks of consecutive lunch and dinner plans (not a smart arrangement after an overstuffed holiday week), the last thing I needed was a big, fat pasta dish. But the other night at Dell'Anima, I had one anyway: The luscious, down-home pizzoccheri (flat buckwheat tagliatelle), topped Lombardi-style with Fontina, potato, garlic, sage and brussels sprouts. The wintrier the weather gets this week, the more I crave it. The pasta even stood out in a binge that kicked off with David Chang's pig-tastic bo ssäm (pork shoulder) at Ssäm Bar one night, then followed with Gavin Kaysen's gorgeous monkfish at Café Boulud, Michael Anthony's slamming grouper with trumpet mushrooms and sweet onions at Gramercy Tavern, and Mike Price's delicious juice-bomb of a cheeseburger, topped with white cheddar and stuffed into a homemade bun, at Market Table.
It was a record stretch of crazy-good food, and will be followed now by...the Blueprint Cleanse? A friend of mine told me about this juice-for-three-days regimen, and everything about it sounds scary, overpriced and miserable. Except the part about not feeling painfully full and sluggish for days on end. Does anyone need to pay $200 just to give the GI tract a rest? Looks that way.