As they prepare to open their highly anticipated new San Francisco restaurant, The Progress, chefs Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski offer a preview of their family-style, meant-to-be-shared recipes.
Most chefs are good hosts; it’s the nature of their business. Stuart Brioza and Nicole Krasinski might be two of the best and most thoughtful hosts in the restaurant world. When guests sit down at their outstanding San Francisco spot State Bird Provisions, a dim sum-style cart—stocked with genius modern American snacks like just-fried garlic bread topped with burrata—rolls right up. “People come in with low blood sugar; if you bring them food right away, immediately everyone relaxes and all is right with the world,” Brioza observes.
The focus at State Bird Provisions is small dishes; Brioza,a 2003 F&W Best New Chef, refers to the restaurant as “an hors d’oeuvres party.” When his and Krasinski’s eagerly awaited new restaurant, The Progress, opens this winter, it will emulate a dinner party. Little plates of pickles will be arranged on tables while guests have cocktails. Then platters of food will start arriving, like a magnificent sirloin roast with garlic chips and fresh hot sauce alongside accompaniments like sautéed mixed mushrooms with pickle butter. “Nothing—nothing—is more satisfying than sharing food,” declares Brioza.