- Early Look: Fatty Crab St. John
- Spying on Tiki Barber at Café Boulud
- Hungry at Waverly Inn
- NYC's Top New Tapas
- The Easy Way to Make Thomas Keller's Signature Salmon Cornets
- How to Transform Thanksgiving Leftovers Into the Ultimate Mexican Breakfast: Turkey Chilaquiles
- Who Needs Meat When There's Seafood Charcuterie?
- 10 Secret Weapon Ingredients from Star Chefs
- 5 Mistakes That Made Coolhaus's Freya Estreller a Better Business Owner
- Batali Disciple in Cartagena
As someone who’s a french-fry purist (hot, golden brown and very crisp, please), I get nervous when I see them in unnatural situations. So I tried not to freak out when I spotted french-fry salad on the menu at the fantastic West Village restaurant Market Table. After all, they’ve been selling french-fry po’boys for years in New Orleans. And poutine—the Canadian “classic” that combines gravy, cheese curds and fries on one big, fat plate—has been appearing on U.S. menus for a while now. (They do a stellar version at Animal in L.A., with oxtail gravy and cheddar; also at the Gage in Chicago, topped with elk ragù.) Anyway, back to the salad: At Market Table, chef Mikey Price makes it by topping (hot) fries with peppercress, shaved Parmesan and red wine vinaigrette. I'm sure it's very good—Price absolutely rocks—but I couldn't bring myself to try it. Still, he’s not the only one getting crazy with the fries—at Chicago's Chaise Lounge, chef James Lasky is experimenting with a Lyonnaise salad with pancetta and a poached egg, anchored by hand-cut fries. And no matter what, none of this is as scary as the french-fry pizza at Reginella in Brooklyn, spotlighted by Eater a few months back.