The editor of The Washington Post's Wonkblog tells why DC is a great food town and why processed food deserves respect.
You went to El Bulli the year before it closed. Did it live up to the hype?
To say "El Bulli was incredible" is a horrible foodie cliché. They get you very drunk before they bring any food, which is brilliant—like getting drunk before going to a comedy club. But beyond that, I've never been anywhere where people have worked so hard to delight you.
Is there any restaurant you’re eyeing for a food pilgrimage now?
I’m not a very big fan of tasting menus and very fussy stuff. I like trying to find a truly great hamburger or roast chicken or slice of pizza.
Where have you had a really amazing everyday dish?
Big Star in Chicago. They have a queso fundido, and if I could, I would eat that every day until I die—which would probably be like 10 days. It’s a very luxurious baked cheese-and-chorizo dish.