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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Expert Guide to Drinking

Jim Meehan's Top 10 New Bars in the U.S.

The Dead Rabbit Grocery & Grog

Last year when barman extraordinaire Jim Meehan did his list of the Top 10 New Bars around the country, I said it was one of the best times in recent memory to be drinking great cocktails.

I was wrong. This is the best time in recent memory to be drinking great cocktails, whether it's a perfectly stirred Negroni or a Cosmo that you ordered after putting on your best shoulder-padded jacket. Drinking is more fun than it's been in a long time.

Here to tell you more is Jim Meehan, the manager of Manhattan's outstanding bar PDT and the editor of F&W's cocktail books. To see more about what he's drinking, follow him on Twitter and Instagram at @mixography.

The Dead Rabbit Grocery & Grog (New York City)
Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry spent years researching for the Dead Rabbit, a multilevel tavern that seems to have time traveled to the heart of Manhattan's Financial District straight from the 1850s. The downstairs Taproom is the place for beers and whiskeys. The second floor Parlor has a menu with dozens of über-classic cocktails and communal punches; when you sit down, you're served an “appetizer”: a teacup of a featured punch. The assortment of cool old-school cups even includes ones with mustache guards. @deadrabbitNYC
deadrabbitnyc.com

Pouring Ribbons (New York City)
Over on Avenue B in Manhattan's East Village, Joaquín Simó, Troy Sidle and Toby Maloney opened this second-floor bar. The menu features 15 house drinks and 15 classics; they're arranged on a grid that lets you figure out your cocktail profile, from Refreshing to Spirituous and Comforting to Adventurous. The Two Trick Pony, made with whiskey, bourbon and the Champagne of beers is one of the more Adventurous drinks here. @pouringribbons
pouringribbons.com

Range (Washington, DC)
Chef Bryan Voltaggio's sprawling 300-seat restaurant has eight separate, fully functional kitchen stations that produce everything in-house for the adventurous menu. Barman Owen Thomson uses the restaurant's very cool resources to make the 25 house cocktails (he and his team choose spirits by blind tasting). Another thing I love about this place: It's one of the country's best new restaurants and best new bars. And it's in a mall. @volt_range
voltrange.com

Barmini (Washington, DC)
For his first cocktail-centric spot, renowned chef José Andrés employs many of the avant-garde techniques that made his neighboring restaurant Minibar famous. (Don't forget he pioneered the Salt Air margarita, too.) Head bartender Juan Coronado scours the globe for antique glassware—some dates to the 1920s—for his classic and modern day concoctions. The table behind the bar, where bartenders work as chefs do, is genius. @barminibyjose
minibarbyjoseandres.com

Paper Plane (Decatur, GA)
Behind Victory Sandwich Bar, a place that's known for it's Jack & Coke frozen slushies, is this sort-of hidden lounge with walnut veneer paneling and black vinyl booths. Local hero bartender Paul Calvert has a short, well-chosen cocktail list that ranges from sherry-based drinks to the Bottle of Smoke. It's a mix of mezcal, house-made raspberry syrup, lemon, Cynar and sparkling wine, and it's delicious with the wild striped bass panzanella, made with hunks of brioche seared in duck fat, from Paper Plane's food menu.
the-paper-plane.com

No Vacancy (Hollywood)
Jonnie and Mark Houston spent three years restoring a century-old Victorian-era Hollywood house, then transformed it into an early 20th-century club that blends Wild West saloon with a gentlemen's club. The gin- and whiskey-forward cocktail list was curated by barman Sean Hamilton. He chose a dozen bartenders to contribute recipes for the opening menu. I gave them a white rum, lemon and ginger liqueur drink with a hit of curry. The entrance is the single greatest bar experience ever, but I won't ruin it for you. I will say that if you're going to have aerialist “dancers” at a bar, you might as well have it in L.A., where they know what they're doing. novacancyla.com

Trick Dog (San Francisco)
In the Mission, San Francisco's hottest new bar shares the same space as a couple of the city's other cool spots, Sightglass Coffee and Central Kitchen. The two-story bar, the handiwork of Scott Baird and Josh Harris, features 25 house creations listed on a menu formatted like a 45 rpm record book (The Clash's “Bankrobber” is a Wild Turkey rye–based drink). Chef Chester Watson's concise bar menu—cracklins, shrimp cocktail with house Bloody Mary mix—is available late into the evening. @trickdogbar
trickdogbar.com

Polite Provisions (San Diego)
Behind the bar here is San Francisco drinks expert Erick Castro. The place is a craft cocktail bar with a beverage program modeled after an early 19th-century neighborhood soda fountain. The bar shares the same trendy address as Soda & Swine, a meat-focused concept by the Michelin-starred chef Jason McLeod. I'm not big on happy hours, but I'd hit this one, which runs from Monday through Thursdays. @politeSanDiego
politeprovisions.com

Three Dots and a Dash (Chicago)
Guests entering the alley of this bar can follow a thin trail of blue lights to the entrance. Barman Paul McGee and chef Doug Psaltis headline the team behind this glammed up modern tiki bar, named after an old Don the Beachcomber cocktail. The beautifully illustrated menu features classic and modern tiki cocktails (including its namesake, made with aged rhum agricole, Guyanese rum, honey and falernum), along with large-format offerings that serve three to 12. A small food menu of island fare (luau chips, beef negimaki) is available, next to tikis gathered from former Trader Vic's outposts in Chicago. @ThreeDotsCHI
threedotschicago.com

Broken Shaker (Miami)
Initially opened as a pop-up, Elad Zvi and Gabe Orta's Bar Lab team has made this South Beach's most soulful bar. Not that hard, but this is an all-time great bar. Located in the Freehand hostel, the Broken Shaker serves handcrafted cocktails prepared from ingredients grown in its own garden. The space is indoors/outdoors; you can sit by the pool and drink the Rhum and Funk, made with Cocoa Puffs–infused rhum agricole.
thefreehand.com

Related: World's Best Bars
America's Best Margarita Bars
Best Hotel Bars

Expert Guide

The Best Ribs in America and Beyond

The Woodshed Smokehouse in Fort Worth, TX.

It’s easier than ever to fake your way through a summertime cookout. You’ve heard about the test tube burger; you had to, it cost $33,000. Meanwhile, sales of alternative meat products, like faux hot dogs, continue to rise (to more than $550 million last year). The one cookout staple that doesn’t easily lend itself to veganism is ribs. So, before someone comes up with a test tube version, let’s shout out epic pork and beef ribs around the country.

Texas star chef Tim Love, whose restaurants include the Lonesome Dove Western Bistro and Love Shack, happens to be a ribs expert. He kindly provided a list of his favorite ribs spots—both pork and beef. Believe it or not, he’s got his eyes wide open enough to find a go-to place in Toronto.

PORK RIBS

Bludso’s; Compton, CA
This is a storefront with bad-ass pork ribs in a neighborhood I knew only from rap songs. (Now there’s a new branch of Bludso’s in Hollywood.) The ribs are Texas style: They’re not covered in too much sweet sauce, which is one reason I was attracted to them. It turns out that the owner, Kevin Bludso, comes from a Texas barbecue family. He uses just a little bit of a rub, enough to take it beyond salt and pepper and make the meat really good. bludsosbbq.com

JT’s Bar-B-Que; Del City, OK
JT’s is like a real old-school men’s club inside. I think they just got a women’s restroom a few years ago. The ribs are really, really good. JT’s makes them Texas style and uses spareribs; they’re a little thicker than baby backs, which is typically what you see in Oklahoma. The meat just pulls right off the bones. You’ll just see ribs on everyone’s plate. jtsbarbque.com

The Joint; New Orleans
While I love New Orleans and its amazing fusion of Creole and seafood, I just don’t think of it as a great barbecue destination. But this at this place, the pulled pork and pork ribs were off the chart. You can always find BBQ in a BBQ city but to find it in a non-BBQ city is amazing. They use baby backs with a kind of Cajun rub to it, almost like a blackening seasoning. alwayssmokin.com

Jojo’s Barbeque; Potosi, TX
I found this place when I was in San Angelo for my son’s baseball tournament. It is the middle of friggen’ nowhere, a family-run business with kids working the counter. I got the Trinity plate. The brisket is fine, the sausage is pretty good. But the ribs, they were so tender, it was almost as if they were braised. They weren’t, they were smoked with just a little salt and pepper on them. If you find yourself rolling 15 minutes outside that giant city of Abilene, you’re lucky you get to have these ribs. jojosbarbeque.com

Barque Smokehouse; Toronto
If you’re this far north and you want to have respectable ribs, I’ve got a place. Barque looks more like a restaurant than a BBQ spot, though there’s a massive smoker in the open kitchen. David Neinstein puts a little bit of sauce on his ribs, then grills them so they’re really crispy. They’re not too messy or too saucy—I just don’t like those ribs. My dad is from Canada, which is how I first found these ribs. I’m a pretty tough dude to please when it comes to meat, and I was impressed. Definitely worth the wait to get into this place. barque.ca

Woodshed Smokehouse; Fort Worth, TX
This is my spot. We use baby back ribs, which we rub with pure cane sugar, chile powder, toasted cumin, fresh rosemary, salt and pepper. We’re real particular, we use pecan wood, and we smoke the ribs for 3 hours and 15 minutes, and serve with zero sauce. That’s really important to me. The herbs are crispy, the meat is nice and tender. woodshedsmokehouse.com

BEEF RIBS

Lockhart Smokehouse; Dallas
You can only get beef ribs here on certain days, so you better know what those days are. Here, they smoke beef shoulder, and about once a week they have beef ribs, which they sell until they run out. They’re seasoned with just straight salt and pepper, and they offer all kinds of pickles to go with them from the pickle bar. The ribs are really meaty, the edges have an awesome crispness. lockhartsmokehouse.com

Smoke Restaurant; Dallas
The chef Tim Byres serves what is basically a giant beef short rib; he calls it The Big Rib. It’s got a thick coating of salt and pepper; the crust is most ridiculous thing you’ve ever had. Tim slow smokes that meat for a long, long time. It’s one solid rib, and it sure as hell looks good, too. smokerestaurant.com

Cooper’s Old Time Pit Bar-B-Que; Llano, TX
Cooper’s has a couple of different locations, but I’m going to talk about the one in Hill Country. They’re famous for their Big Chop, which is a center-cut pork chop. I like their beef ribs that they sell about once a week. Cooper’s does open-pit smoking. They use direct heat, calm the coals down, then put the ribs over them. The meat is a little chewier than some other beef ribs, but it has the most intense smoky flavor. coopersbbqllano.com

Related: Ultimate BBQ Cities
Lessons from Grilling and BBQ Maven Elizabeth Karmel
Summer Grilling Guide
F&W’s Summer Bucket List
Outrageous Hot Dogs
Best Burgers in the U.S.

Expert Guide

Amazing Low-Tech Grilling Tricks

Low-Tech Grilling Tricks

Three fire-loving chefs show us their smartest tricks for grilling—all gratifyingly low-tech.

Beef Flavor Boost
Bryant Ng, chef at the Spice Table in Los Angeles, is an umami master. He often rubs steaks and burgers with Southeast Asian fermented shrimp paste before grilling. The cooked meat doesn’t smell or taste fishy at all—just incredibly rich and savory.

Bellows Strategy
Ng won’t grill without an old-fashioned bamboo fan, using it like a bellows to intensify the fire’s heat. Not only are foods less likely to stick to an ultra-hot grate, but thin skewered cuts brown on the outside quickly without overcooking and drying out within.

The Pause Break
Adam Perry Lang, founder of Daisy May’s BBQ USA in NYC, takes larger cuts, like double-cut pork chops, off the grill about halfway through cooking. He lets the meat rest for several minutes—allowing it to evenly cook throughout—before finishing on the grill.

Ember Technique
Sounds sooty but it isn’t: Lang throws steaks, lamb chops and skin-on boneless chicken breasts directly on hardwood embers—no grate necessary. The red-hot embers perfectly brown the meat, forming a delicious crust.

Sea-Salt Bath
Bryan Voltaggio, chef at Volt in Frederick, Maryland, prevents fish from falling apart on the grate with this clever move: He soaks the raw fish for 10 minutes in brine. Use 1 tablespoon fine sea salt per 4 cups cold water; pat fish dry before grilling.

Char In A Bottle
Voltaggio grills leeks until they’re thoroughly blackened. Then he grinds them, steeps the powdered leek ash in oil overnight and strains. The charred-leek oil develops a complexity that can give any food a fantastic fire-roasted flavor.

Related: Quick Grilling Recipes
Lazy Grilling Shortcuts
F&W’s Ultimate Summer Grilling Guide

Expert Guide

F&W’s Best Dishes for Ramadan

Spiced Chicken

During Ramadan, which starts today, Muslims around the world spend a month fasting from dawn to sunset, when they can finally feast. An accomplished cook and blogger, Mais Khourdaji combed the Food & Wine archives for the best recipes to make during the holy month.

Here is what she had to say about some very delicious recipes. MORE >

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Expert Guide

Chefs Celebrate July 4th on Instagram

Michael Lomonaco

 

Relatively new to the Instagram playing field, iconic NYC chef Michael Lomonaco (@cheflomonaco) of Porter House New York is already taking advantage of the platform's new video capabilities. Lomonaco posted two charming clips this week in honor of July 4th weekend, including a demo of his perfect Dark 'n Stormy (he recommends sourcing a good ginger beer like Fever-Tree) and a steak sandwich how-to.

Meanwhile, NOLA superstar John Besh (@chefjohnbesh) is over on his handle making biscuits and F&W Best New Chef 2008 Michael Psikakis (@mpsilakis) and F&W Classic in Aspen hero Marcus Samuelsson (@marcuscooks) will also be posting Instagram videos tied to Independance Day this afternoon. See how chefs and at-home cooks celebrate the holiday F&W-style all weekend by tracking and using the hashtag #FWSummer.

Follow Food & Wine on Instagram @foodandwinemag



F&W Exclusive

Island Creek Oysters Expands, Explains How to Shuck 'Em Yourself

Island Creek Oysters

Courtesy of Island Creek

The phenomenal team behind Island Creek Oysters in Duxbury, Massachusetts, and Boston’s Island Creek Oyster Bar is two months into the construction of a new, rustic, seafood restaurant called Row 34. “Island Creek Oyster Bar was inspired by the majesty of Duxbury Bay,” says partner Garrett Harker. “Row 34 is a workingman’s expression of the oyster farm.” Here, a sneak peek at the new restaurant plus tips for shucking oysters at home. »

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Expert Guide

Top Chef's Paul Qui on How to Run a Successful Food Truck

Paul Qui standing in front of his original food trailer, with his partner, Motoyasu Utsunomiya. / © Jay B Sauceda.
© Jay B Sauceda

Paul Qui standing in front of his original food trailer, with his partner, Motoyasu Utsunomiya. / © Jay B Sauceda

Organizers for Austin’s massive annual music, film and technology festival, South by Southwest (which kicks off Friday), tapped Top Chef: Texas winner and former Uchiko executive chef Paul Qui to curate a selection of 16 food trucks for SouthBites, the event’s first official food court. Qui currently operates three East Side King trucks, and last December he parlayed their success into a brick-and-mortar restaurant. When choosing businesses for the project, he looked for diversity beyond hot dogs and burgers, such as the famous Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams and South African local favorite Cazamance. Here, Qui reveals the secrets to operating a fantastic food truck and his picks for the best food at SouthBites.

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Expert Guide

Daniel Boulud’s Oscar Party Tips

Red Carpet Cocktail

Red Carpet Cocktail Courtesy of Justine Sterling

On Sunday, star chef Daniel Boulud is hosting the only official East Coast Oscar party with the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences at his flagship restaurant, Daniel. The evening mirrors the West Coast’s most glamorous Oscars event, the Governors Ball, which Wolfgang Puck has overseen for the past 19 years. “I always envy Wolfgang Puck in Los Angeles, so I am very proud to be doing my share in New York,” says Boulud.

While Boulud might make it to Hollywood one day—spot his cameo in the in the film Final Recipe this spring—he’s going all-out for the Academy in New York. Boulud created nominee-inspired dishes, like the Life of Pi tiger shrimp samosas, as well as sparkling Red Carpet cocktails with a vibrant base layer of cranberry gelée, and a three-course dinner. Here, he offers tips for adapting his megawatt viewing party at home. MORE »

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Expert Guide

Top 10 Break-Up Foods

White Fudge Sundae

White Fudge Sundae © Anna Williams

This is not the time to be anything other than crazy self-indulgent. So, go sit at the counter at a non-budget sushi counter and tell the chef who's wielding the knife to feed you. For one thing, it's good practice for your next relationship. There also might be a cute boy/girl a few seats down the sushi bar. If you're more in the market for a Euro, you can employ the same strategy at your nearest caviar bar. MORE OF THE TOP 10 BREAK UP FOODS>>

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Expert Guide

Christina Tosi Dreams of Unsung Ways to Eat Chocolate

Christina Tosi Dreams of Chocolate

Photo © David Malosh/ Art © James Maikowski.

Boxed candies can be supremely delicious and sexy. But to impress the truly chocolate-obsessed Valentine on Thursday—and provide shopping alternatives for stumped procrastinators—Momofuku Milk Bar’s sugar mastermind, Christina Tosi, reveals some of the more creative ways to enjoy chocolate.

1. Pair with fruits and vegetables. “Chocolate is a great way to hide the ‘healthy’ in your next tomato cake, beet, celery root or potato concoction, or zucchini bread!”

2. Serve with cheese. “Dark chocolate is great with any grassy cheese, and a great surprise on a cheese platter. You can even make a killer fudge sauce/spread with some grassy goat milk, to sit on your next cheese platter.”

3. Burn it. “Did you know that burning white chocolate slowly makes the most delicious, sweet brown butter bits?” Now you do.

4. Eat it on toast. “Or in toast! With passion fruit curd and a cup of coffee.”

5. Smoke it. “My first run in with this was working as a pastry cook for Sam Mason and chef Wylie Dufresne at WD-50 in New York. We turned smoked chocolate into a killer ice cream.”

Follow writer Jasmin Sun on Twitter @jasminsun.

Related: Christina Tosi's 7 Craziest Cookie Ingredients
F&W Editor Picks: Best Chocolates
DIY Chocolates Candies

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

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