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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Cocktails

New York Fashion Week with Padma Lakshmi and Mary-Kate & Ashley

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Top Chef host, cookbook author and former model Padma Lakshmi kicked off New York City's fashion week by judging hors d'oeuvres created by six fashion celebs in a cook-off at Bergdorf Goodman's BG Restaurant. The contestants included designers Peter Som (panko-fried oysters with blood-orange gastrique and tartar sauce) and Naeem Khan (chicken with 26 Indian spices, wrapped in lettuce), but the hands-down winning dish, according to Padma (and F&W's omniscient Kate Krader), was Lela Rose's corn crepe topped with lobster and a cilantro–pine nut salsa. Midway through the competition, Anna Wintour, the editor in chief of Vogue, peeked into the room, threw her head back with a rarely captured laugh and exited into the fashion ether.

Later that night, Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen served watermelon-and-candied-ginger martinis to a packed room of crazed fans in an effort to promote their clothing lines Elizabeth & James and The Row. A few minutes into the service, Ashley said, "Is there music?" and the staff turned on some beats. Any good bar patron knows that you should always tip the bartender, so I dropped a dollar on the bar (a move that confused Mary-Kate and made it into the next day's paper). After all, leaving a tip never goes out of style–even if it's for a couple of billionaires.

Events

Food Celebrities Feed America

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A table of food stars for Macy's Come Together charity.

The goal of feeding 10 million hungry people in America is not a modest one. So thank goodness some big guns are addressing the situation. Come Together, the new initiative by Macy’s and Feeding America, includes plenty of paparazzi-worthy celebrities (Donald Trump, Tommy Hilfiger, Jessica Simpson) promoting charitable dinner parties, where hosts will ask guests to make a donation to Feed America instead of bringing a hostess gift. On Tuesday night, Macy’s hosted its own dinner with some paparazzi-worthy chefs from their Culinary Council to launch the initiative. Emeril Lagasse prepared shrimp remoulade, chicken jambalaya and sautéed pound cake with flambéed for the assorted food stars, who included Cat Cora, Ming Tsai and Nancy Silverton; my boss, Food & Wine editor-in-chief Dana Cowin; and my Top Chef hero and colleague, Gail Simmons.

Events

Watching Flaming Shrimp at the US Open

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Tony Mantuano's prosciutto with shaved artichoke salad

As we enter prime season for food lovers—the next few weeks will bring dazzling events like Le Fooding, the New York City Wine & Food Festival and StarChefs.com’s International Chefs Congress, among others—it’s tempting to look at every major event as an opportunity to eat. So while I know most people go to the US Open semifinals to see Roger Federer make the best shot of his life, I was almost as focused on the food at Arthur Ashe Stadium, specifically at Tony Mantuano’s Wine Bar. Mantuano, the chef at Chicago's Spiaggia, has two tented locations at the Open this year, near the stadium entrance and on the club floor (club location preferable if you’re looking for spectators like Jack Nicholson and Mario Batali). Mantuano serves excellent small plates from his recent Wine Bar Food cookbook, including prosciutto with shaved artichokes and hearts of palm. Most notable is his flaming ouzo shrimp, which combines quintessential Mediterranean flavors like lemon, garlic and anise-y ouzo with seafood. When the ouzo sauce is ignited, flames dramatically jump up a foot high (Mantuano had the Wine Bar’s tent fireproofed); it was the only thing diverting enough to make you take your eyes off one of Federer and Novak Djokovic's epic volleys on the giant screen.

Events

Second Annual Fatty Fest

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Zak Pelaccio is hands on at Fatty Fest

I’ve always thought it was smart the way the Fatty Crab team expanded their empire from an outstanding-but-tiny downtown-NYC Malaysian restaurant to include a much bigger, more comfortable and cocktail-friendly outpost on the Upper West Side, a groovy and authentic Mexican restaurant, Cabrito, in the West Village, and coming this fall, a Brooklyn barbecue place: Fatty ‘Cue. But I saw an additional benefit to their expansion this weekend at the second annual, 24-hour, Woodstock-simulating Fatty Fest, at chef/owner Zak Pelaccio's country home in Old Chatham, NY—a.k.a. the company party. Cabrito supplied the homemade chips, salsas and roast goat (which was still roasting when some of us, who didn’t appreciate the pleasures of overnighting in a field in a sleeping bag, left the party); the Fatty Crab teams took turns marinating the lamb (also still roasting late-night, although it was possible to grab chunks of delicious charred meat from the spit); and the super-succulent roast pig was allegedly a preview of what they’ll serve at Fatty ‘Cue. Also convenient with FC’s empire building is the ability to easily divide up into uptown and downtown teams for a game of Fatty Touch Football (love that name). For the record, Fatty Crab downtown won the game 4-3.

Events

Hamptons Burger Bloodbath

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© Joanne Wilson
Mo Koyfman in action at Burger Bloodbath

When Ben Leventhal, NYC restaurant power broker and cofounder of Eater.com, hosted his annual Burger Bloodbath in the Hamptons last year, it looked like a scene out of MTV’s The Real World (including a shirtless Cobi Levy of Charles Restaurant, who spent so much time getting his photo taken that he neglected to light his grill). This year, it was slightly more like a grown-up version of Melrose Place. Cobi kept his shirt on most of the time and cooked a very good Gruyère-topped bacon burger. Returning champion Mo Koyfman—a venture capitalist by day—also presented a pretty great cheeseburger. But, surprising some of us judges (including LaFrieda meats VP Mark Pastore and cookbook author Katie Lee, winner of last year's Burger Bash at the NYC Wine & Food Festival), the winner of Bloodbath turned out to be restaurateur Jeffrey Chodorow. Chodorow ordered extra brisket in his ground beef mix, so it was slightly sweet and extra-juicy, and he topped it with American cheese, spicy pickles and a Sriracha-spiked special sauce. "It's good that there's controversy over the winner," said my new hero, hotelier Sean MacPherson. "More interest for next year's Bloodbath." Gotham Gal has all the details, for anyone who might want to recreate the Burger Bloodbath at home.

Bars

Celebrating Craft and Canned Beers

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This Friday kicks off the second annual New York City Craft Beer Week, a 10-day event that includes incredible beer-pairing dinners hosted by top New York state brewers and star New York City chefs, as well as tastings, seminars  and bar crawls. Next month, a new type of beer-appreciation event will take place in Reno, Nevada. On October 23, the city will host the first-ever international canned beer festival. But don’t expect to find PBR or Miller. The event, dubbed Canfest, brings together a growing number of craft breweries, like Reno’s Buckbean Brewing Company, Maui Brewing Company and Oskar Blues, that eschew bottles for eco-friendly (and, some argue, more beer-friendly) aluminum cans. Celebrities from the beer world will serve as judges. The daylong festival will also include beer-and-food pairings and seminars with brewers.

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Events

Frank Bruni Farewell Party

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Frank Bruni’s tenure as restaurant critic for the New York Times has spoiled me rotten. I’ve eaten with him at great restaurants and, even better sometimes, at terrible ones (more on that later). So as a small thank you, I threw a little party for him at the best party spot in the city, the third floor of the Spotted Pig.

You’re not supposed to talk about Pig’s third-floor parties. Here’s what little can be said.

* All kinds of people came to fête Frank, from one of my favorite Times political reporters, Katharine Seelye, to super-elite chefs like Eric Ripert of Le Bernardin.

* A debate over Frank's absolute-worst restaurant experience came down to a meal at the now-defunct Ago (which included a wine spill on Frank’s dinner companion, a 50-plus-minute table wait and very bad food) versus any dinner at the Japanese high-concept Ninja. The Ninja dinner “won.” (Frank confirmed that Ninja was his worst meal as a critic.)

* Some of the chefs who came to see Frank off (a.k.a. the ones who actually stayed in the city and worked before the long weekend) included Craft and Top Chef’s Tom Colicchio, Marea's Michael White and Sueños's Sue Torres, who represented the early shift. On the late shift: the Pig’s April Bloomfield, Locanda Verde’s Andrew Carmellini and Minetta Tavern’s Riad Nasr and Lee Hanson. There for the duration: Spotted Pig co-owner and party host nonpareil Ken Friedman and LaFrieda Meats' Mark Pastore.

* Sample conversation: Colicchio grilling Frank about the Times adopting a half-star system. While Colicchio argued that not all three-star restaurants are the same (David Chang’s name might have come up), Bruni countered that half stars mean you can’t make up your mind. Also up for discussion: how quickly Frank was recognized in some dining rooms (Locanda Verde might be the winner: From their open kitchen vista, Carmellini and sous chef Luke Ostrom spotted him even before the hostesses did).

* The party was a toast to his tenure as critic and not to his new book, Born Round. Not only did Frank politely decline to sign copies (for a few brown-nosing chefs and restaurateurs), but he also didn’t tell me that the book had just made the Times nonfiction best-seller list.

Wine

Fall's Best Foodie Internships

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Summer is usually internship season. But summer is nearly over and  fewer than a fifth of recent college graduates have job offers. Now TravelOregon (the state's tourism organization) has launched an internship contest; the seven winners will work alongside a top Oregon rancher, distiller or chef for a week. Applicants have until September 18 to submit a short video and make a case (in 140 words or less) for why they are worthy of the all-expenses-paid internship. A few of the opportunities:
 
 *Work alongside Food & Wine Best New Chef 2007 Gabriel Rucker, at Portland’s awesome Le Pigeon restaurant.
 
 * Explore the art of vineyard-designate winemaking from Lynn Penner- Ash, winemaker at Willamette Valley’s Penner-Ash Wine Cellars.

 * Make artisanal cheese with David Gremmels of the excellent Rogue Creamery.
 
 * Turn hops and grains into craft beer with brewmaster Jamie Emmerson of Hood River’s Full Sail Brewery.
 
 * Learn about craft spirits and get a degree in mixology with distiller Jim Bendis of Bendistillery.
 

Events

Biggest Loser Breakfast Workout

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I'm a huge fan of the show The Biggest Loser, so when I was offered the opportunity to go to a morning workout with one of its fitness trainers, Bob Harper, I jumped at the chance. Bob, along with a few familiar faces from past seasons (Tara included!), came to NYC to demo the new Nintendo Wii Biggest Loser video game. We got in a fun and somewhat difficult 30-minute workout, following Bob's exercise moves on screen as he cheered us on in person. The game looked so lifelike and included everything from squats to yoga, just like on the show. Then we had breakfast, featuring recipes from The Biggest Loser series of cookbooks. I must say that the turkey patties were delicious-full of flavor and juicy. I recently tested The Biggest Loser Family Cookbook and had success with the New Favorite Meatballs recipe. White breadcrumbs, milk and eggs were replaced with quick cooking oats, skim milk and egg whites.

Some other recipes Bob would approve of are:

Lemon-Stuffed Grilled Branzino

Summer Farro Salad

Rice-Noodle Salad with Chicken and Herbs

Mango-Glazed Turkey Breast

Tomato, Cucumber and Sweet Onion Salad with Cumin Salt

Crab, Avocado and Asparagus Salad

Recipes

London Pop-Up Cake Shop

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For F&W’s September issue, I wrote about an incredible dinner party that London-based ceramicist Peter Ting hosted at the country house he shares with his partner, Brian Kennedy, and his friend Rachel Lamb. Ting gave F&W an exclusive look at his new Hachi tabletop collection for Royal Crown Derby and also shared some of his best recipes. Though he is an excellent cook, Ting's true passion is baking. He recently launched a London-based group called the Cake Committee that meets every other month (Oct. 18 and Dec. 13 will be the next dates) in Pullens Yards. A minimum of 10 amateur and professional bakers bring at least one cake, pie, tart or brioche to sell by the slice to raise money for charity. I sent Peter my favorite F&W recipe for red velvet cake, which he made for the committee’s inaugural meeting.

 

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Already looking forward to next year (June 19-21, 2015)? Relive your favorite moments from the culinary world's most sensational weekend in the Rocky Mountains.