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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Travel

A Funky New Santa Barbara Boutique

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supply room

© Jen Murphy
The Supply Room at the Presidio Motel.

Santa Barbara, California’s Presidio Motel has gotten a super-hip makeover since Kenny Osehan and Chris Sewell took over the space about five years ago. They started the transformation by asking University of Santa Barbara art students to reimagine the motel’s 16 guest rooms. Some fun results: whimsical origami mobiles and purple cloud murals. Live bands come play on the upper deck, which is outfitted with bright orange chairs—and, sometimes, an inflatable kiddie pool filled with bottles of local craft beer. The newest addition is a funky little boutique that opened in July called the Supply Room. Reminiscent of Opening Ceremony’s space at the Ace Hotel in NYC, the Supply Room carries indie designers from the Santa Barbara area, as well as from Brooklyn and L.A. When I stopped in, the store was stocked with fun beaded jewelry from local designer Camilla Bourbon, handmade sheepskin slippers made in Bodega Bay and Osei-Duro clothing from Ghana. There are also fun travel items like vintage postcards and Japanese toothpaste. With the Supply Room now open, Osehan and Sewell have turned their attention to their next project: a 1956 Shasta Trailer RV that will most likely be turned into a happy hour lounge in the parking lot.
 

Recipes

Fashionista Recipes

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jason wu

© Michael Turek
Jason Wu learns the secret to perfect macarons.


Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week kicks off in New York City tomorrow and anyone who has been following the September fashion magazine previews should know that the hourglass figure is in this season. To celebrate the backlash of the über-thin model and the comeback of curves, here are some delicious recipes from food-obsessed fashion designers.

Asian party recipes from the boundary-pushing team at Opening Ceremony.

Michelle Obama’s design darling, Jason Wu, is addicted to François Payard’s French macarons.

An over-the-top dinner party menu of braised veal osso buco, saffron risotto and sautéed broccoli rabe from entertaining and design genius Naeem Khan.

Southern-inspired potluck dishes from Natalie Chanin of Alabama Chanin and her closest food and fashion friends.



Desserts

Cupcakes or Pops?

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cakeshooter

© Sprinkles
Cupcake pops.



I thought it was impossible for the cupcake to be reinvented even more. I’ve seen colossal, cocktail-infused and wacky savory cupcakes. And now, Sprinkles Custom Cakes in Winter Park, Florida, has introduced a hybrid cupcake in push-up pop form called a CakeShooter. It almost looks like a layer cake squished into a pop shape with alternating layers of cake and icing. Flavors include vanilla Bavarian cream mixed with pineapple and coconut filling and yellow-raspberry cake layered with cream cheese frosting. The cupcake pops also come in gluten-free and vegan versions.

Events

Eat Cake for a Cause

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© Courtesy of the Cake Committee

Multitalented London ceramicist Peter Ting is also one of the most obsessive bakers I know. Looking for an excuse to indulge his baking passion and give back, he started a group in London called the Cake Committee, which hosts what I like to think of as grown-up bake sales. Members bring their best homemade sweets, mostly cakes, and select a charity to donate the profits to. The cake sales have been such a success that Ting has helped set up committee chapters (he calls them “slices”) in Singapore, Maine and now New York City. The first meeting of the NYC chapter is tonight from 7 to 9 p.m. at the Maccarone Gallery. The $20 entrance fee will be donated to the Friends of the French Culinary Institute and the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual and Transgender Community Center. RSVP to epaul@vlany.org to eat cake for a cause.

Farms

Great Barrington’s Great Grocer

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blue marble

© Jen Murphy
Blue Marble ice cream at Rubiner's.

 

During a recent weekend in the Berkshires, I stopped in the cool little town of Great Barrington, Massachusetts, to stock up on snacks for the ride home and spent nearly an hour wandering around Rubiner’s Cheesemongers & Grocers. Located in an old bank on Main Street, this super-artisanal store is beyond forward-thinking when it comes to what it offers shoppers.

Here, five top reasons to drop in:

1. An insane selection of more than 130 artisan cheeses that ripen in the back cave (formerly the bank vault).

2. Out-of-this-world artisanal foods that include Rancho Gordo Beans, Mast Brothers Chocolates, French salted caramels and house-made country pâté.

3. Rubiner’s works with famed fishmonger Rod Browne Mitchell and Browne Trading Company to run something similar to a CSA for fish. Locals who sign up get an e-mail every Monday night listing the week’s catch. They place an order by 4 p.m. Wednesday and can pick up or (for a small fee) get home-delivery of the same superfresh seafood that goes to chefs like Eric Ripert and Thomas Keller.

4. Farmer’s Discount: Anyone who makes their primary living through farming or the production of artisan foods gets a 20-percent discount.

5. In the summer, Brooklyn’s awesome Blue Marble ice cream sets up shop out front, serving cups and cones of their decadent flavors like Stick o Butter Pecan. Even more delicious, though, are the homemade ice cream sandwiches that are sold inside. Blue Marble’s café au lait sandwiched between two chocolate sugar cookies was perfection.

News

Amazing Caramels

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Sweet Revolution Caramels

© Dunja Dumanski

While out in San Francisco the other week, a college friend of mine handed me a dangerous package: a box of San Francisco's Sweet Revolution caramels. The name makes sense, as the caramels are uniquely made: They contain no cane sugar or corn syrup but only maple, dairy, honey, sea salt and vanilla bean. The result is a deep honey flavor and a soft, chewy caramel that doesn't stick to your teeth. This spring, Sweet Revolution introduced a new variety, toasted almond (each caramel is topped with a perfectly browned nut). The only thing more perfect than the flavors is the packaging: stamped paper boxes tied up with twine and sealed with bright red wax for the candies, and a short mason jar for the maple-honey-caramel spread.

News

Best Cheap Candy Bar

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Q.bel Candy Bars

Here at Food & Wine we sample all sorts of high-end products, from truffle butter to Champagne. So I find it highly amusing that one of the items that gives our staff happy fits is Q.bel candy bars. The bars are the best kind of Halloween candy: crunchy wafer rolls and bars covered in Belgian chocolate, meticulously sourced from all-natural ingredients. Bars vanish within seconds of being put out for testing, with editors hiding stashes in their desks and absconding with them for family members. Q.bel's two newest flavors, double dark chocolate and mint, were no exception. And at less than $2 a bar, they're an indulgence almost anyone can partake in.

News

Food as Art in L.A.

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Scott Hove's cakes bite back.

© Scott Hove
Scott Hove's cakes bite back.

As a kid, I always loved to play with my food. But none of my creations ever came close to the wild food art that’s part of “Palate,” a new exhibition opening May 22 at L.A.’s Scion Gallery. The title is a play on the artist’s palette and the tasting palate. It includes Jeff Vespa’s huge Polaroids of fast-food burgers and a series of photographs from James Reynolds documenting death-row inmates’ last-meal requests. Wacky food artist Clare Crespo has crocheted a seafood smorgasbord of oysters and shrimp po’boys, and Tamara Kostianovsky uses clothing to create sculptures that resemble slabs of meat. I love the sweet and scary Cakeland collection from Oakland-based artist Scott Hove. His cakes, sculptures and installations are meant to juxtapose the sense of desire and fear with elements like teeth and horns adorning pretty pink cakes.

Menus

A Wine Geek's Dream Wine Bar

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anfora

© Jamie Tiampo
Gabe Thompson and Joe Campanale.

I'm a regular at NYC’s Dell'anima and L'Artusi, the two awesome wine-centric West Village Italian restaurants run by chef Gabe Thompson and sommelier Joe Campanale. Their newest project, Anfora, officially opens tonight. I got a sneak preview of the wine bar at friends-and-family on Friday. Here, the highlights:

1) Campanale has organized his wine list by producer, with an emphasis on sustainable, biodynamic and organic wine. And instead of simply listing wine names and vintages, he has included a photograph of every producer, along with information about the producers and the wines.
2) The stellar by-the-glass selection includes two anfora-aged wines, including Cantino Giardino's Coda di Volpe, an ancient grape grown in Campania since Roman times. (An anfora is a traditional earthen wine vessel used to store and transport wines).
3) Food highlights include lamb ragù sliders with Pecorino Romano and an intense Italian hero with mortadella, soppressata, speck, aged provolone, aioli, mustard and pepper relish. Plus, pastry genius Katherine Thompson has developed amazing sweets, like a rhubarb zuppa inglese.
4) There are also great cocktails, like the Farmer's Friend (rum, rhubarb, mint) and local craft beers on tap.
5) Just two doors down from always-crowded Dell’anima, this 50-seat spot may be the cushiest waiting area in the city with its super-comfy Cabernet-colored banquette seating. And the über-wine-geek will love the quilted topographic maps of wine regions like the Mosel hanging on the walls.

Baking

Reviving Freezer-Burned Ice Cream

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ice cream maker

© Michelle Shih

A few weeks ago, my house lost power for two days. My coffin freezer was pretty packed, so most things made it through okay, but the ice cream developed a granular texture. It was still good for milkshakes, but I wanted to eat regular ice cream. And I had about 10 pints of Ben & Jerry's and Häagen Dazs, so I didn't want to throw them all away (I'd bought them on sale; what can I say, I love a good deal). The Harold McGee in me thought, what if I melted the ice cream, then refroze it in an ice cream maker? Success! The zombie Cherry Garcia (pictured) was slightly denser than the original, but still delicious. Grace Parisi in the F&W test kitchen had another great suggestion: using melted ice cream in bread pudding instead of milk or heavy cream. Recipes after the jump:

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