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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine


Chef Chris Cosentino’s Gluttony Pants



© Betabrand
Betabrand Gluttony Pants

© Betabrand

Meat-centric star chef Chris Cosentino can now add designer to his name. With the help of San Francisco-based Betabrand, Cosentino conceived the ingenious Gluttony Pants, which adjust to three sizes–piglet, sow and boar–for those times when it’s just not appropriate to unbutton your pants at the table. The waistband, pocket linings, as well as the napkin that comes with the pants also include cartoon depictions of the "life-cycle of a glutton." The line launched earlier this week, with the first 100 pairs nearly selling out in 24 hours. But no need to worry, they’re making more. Gluttons can never get enough!

Here, some of Cosentino's terrific recipes from the F&W archives. 


Food, Wine & Rock Stars


outside lands

© Outside Lands
Wine Lands at San Francisco's Outside Lands Festival.

Chefs and winemakers are truly having their rock-star moments this summer as some of the country’s biggest music festivals have added stellar food, wine and beer lineups to complement the concerts’ real rock-star performers.

Earlier this year, winemaker Karl Wente of Wente Vineyards was cruising the shows at Austin’s South by Southwest festival in his Discover the Wine Discover the Music bus, pairing wines with emerging artists playing at the festival.

In June at the Bonnaroo Music & Arts Festival in Manchester, Tennessee, not only was there a craft beer tent with 20 different microbreweries like Magic Hat, Asheville, Blue Grass and Ommegang, but beer sommelier Samuel Merritt of Civilization of Beer was running classes like beer history.

Chicago’s music-obsessed chef Graham Elliot has taken on the roll of culinary director for this weekend’s Lollapalooza concert. Here's a list of the killer local restaurants he’s gotten onboard to create food for the festival.

And the most ambitious of all might just be the upcoming Outside Lands Festival in San Francisco, which will have an entire wine tent, dubbed Wine Lands. The festival’s wine director, Peter Eastlake of Vintage Berkeley, has lined up some of Napa and Sonoma’s best wineries, including Robert Sinskey, Bonny Doon and Long Meadow Ranch. The food lineup, which will include dishes from Bay Area favorites like Maverick (they will be serving their barbecue pulled pork sandwich), was announced even before the music lineup. Are the musicians worried the chefs and winemakers are going to steal the show? I posed the question to Nathan Followill, drummer of the festival’s headlining band, the Kings of Leon. Check back tomorrow to see his response.

For now, check out some of F&W's favorite playlists:

For a small dinner party
For a birthday party
For a cocktail party
For a summer grilling party


Peaches and Chorizo at Dell'anima



© Jesse Gerstein
Peaches and chorizo at Dell'anima.


Meat and fruit have always seemed like an odd pairing to me. Beyond the classic Italian combination of melon and prosciutto, I can’t quite think of any other delicious matches. But chefs Gabe Thompson and Chris Frazier of Dell'anima in New York City have been experimenting, with great success. I stopped in for dinner last night and noticed a new side dish, peaches and chorizo with bush basil. The warm, sweet peaches topped with salty, meaty chorizo worked brilliantly. I can’t think of a simpler side to make for a summer meal. And the glutton in me is tempted to add a dollop of crème fraîche and serve it as a savory dessert for my meat-loving friends.


Chefs & Champagne


chefs n champagne

© Mercedes Benz
James Beard Foundation president Susan Ungaro and Martha Stewart at Chefs & Champagne.

The hottest scene in the Hamptons this weekend was Wölffer Estate winery in Bridgehampton, New York, where the temperatures were blazing for the James Beard Foundation’s annual Chefs & Champagne benefit. Temperatures hovered around the mid-90s beneath an enormous white tent where nearly 1,000 people showed up to drink great Champagne from houses like Lanson and La Caravelle and eat irresistible food from more than 30 star chefs, including Bill Telepan, Marcus Samuelsson, Michel Nischan and Todd English. Standout dishes included mini lobster rolls from Marc Murphy of Ditch Plains, garlicky shrimp alhinho with smoked pimentón from George Mendes  of Aldea and corn velouté with crab beignets from Gavin Kaysen of Café Boulud. Guest of honor Martha Stewart was a fan of Pierre Schaedelin’s tomato gazpacho.


Torrisi’s Star-Chef Tributes


© kate krader
Mario Carbone shows Dave Chang some love

At Torrisi Italian Specialties, it’s serendipitous enough to eat dinner off the daily-changing chalkboard menu—Little Neck clam toasts, and maybe the BBQ lamb shoulder. So imagine what it’s like to be a chef for whom owners Rich Torrisi and Mario Carbone create special dishes. Recently, NBC Feast celebrated the duo's tribute to their ex-boss, Locanda Verde’s  Andrew Carmellini: Haricot de Carmellini. But Torrisi and Carbone don't stop there. Here are Rich T’s descriptions of the genius dishes the team did for a few other notable Torrisi guests.

Mario Batali 2-Hour Cuttlefish Coney Island Lifeguard Style. “It's based on Mario’s Babbo dish, 2-Minute Calamari Sicilian Lifeguard Style. We just used a different cephalopod. And made the lifeguard local.”

Dave Chang
Steamed pork buns. “Grilled mortadella in a steamed bun with our house spicy sauce and horseradish cream. I was really in the weeds that day, but I still went down the street and bought a steamer to serve them in.”

Mark Ladner
Peaches and cherries lavarse. “When Mark opened Lupa, he served stone fruits submerged in ice water. The fruit depended on what was hyper-seasonal at the time. If it was cherries, it would be Cherries Lavarse.’ We gave him some cherries and peaches.”


Jon Shook on Animal’s New Restaurant


© Nigel Parry

Since Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo (F&W Best New Chefs 2009) have officially announced that they’re taking over the old Restaurant 3 Space on Third Street in Los Angeles, all kinds of questions are coming up. Shook doesn’t have many answers. Yet.

On the new place’s name: “We don’t have a name yet. It won’t be called Magnolia. Their new bakery is across the street.”

On the new place’s menu and appeal: “We’re not flushed out on the name or on the decor yet. Animal has had such success, the transition to the next place is going to be difficult no matter what. But right away, we loved the space. The vibe is super. We felt the energy of the room and the power of the windows.”

One thing they can confirm: A liquor license (Animal serves only beer and wine). “We’re super-excited about the liquor. We’re going to serve the drinks that Vin and I love - but what those are is top secret for now.”

There’s also no word on exactly when the new place will open. However, there's a strong rumor that before it does, you’ll see Shook and Dotolo popping up on the East Coast - sometime before the end of fall. Stay tuned for more details.


Michael White’s Guide to Opening a Restaurant


© Buck Ennis
Michael White, foot massage expert

Is opening a new restaurant all crazy stress all the time? Not necessarily. Michael White, of, among other places, the outstanding Marea on New York City's Central Park South, is spending a lot of time downtown in Soho getting ready to launch Osteria Morini in early September. And he's become an expert on local foot massage places and banh mi sandwich joints. Michael says:

“Definitely get a massage from Robert, Mr. Chen or Sonny (or, for women, Robert’s wife Linda—my wife, Giovanna, goes there) at the Yan Mei Foot Reflexology Center (158 Mott St.; 212-219-9788). But don’t expect a relaxing experience. As Mr. Chen says, ‘No pain, no gain.’ He makes grown men cry. After all that pain, I reward myself with the number 4 extra-spicy sandwich from Banh Mi Saigon (138 Mott St.; 212-941-1541)."

So will Michael’s business partner Chris Cannon install a foot masseuse at Morini? No way. “Michael wouldn’t be in the kitchen. He’d spend all his time getting foot massages,” Cannon says.


The Best Way To Bake


For our July story, "The Year of the Pastry Chef,"  we had the honor of featuring some incredible desserts from some of the country's best pastry minds, including Christy Timon and Abram Faber of Clear Flour Bread in Cambridge, Massachusetts, who gave us the recipe for their amazing airy baked doughnuts. A model professional baking recipe, it used baker's percentages and required an accurate scale and instant yeast, two things that aren't often found in home kitchens, but make for more reliable results. In the magazine, we adapted the doughnuts for home cooks, swapping in easier-to-find active dry yeast, scaling back the portions, and converting weights to cup measures, but Timon and Faber were rightfully concerned that our version wouldn't be as fail-safe. We think we came pretty close, but were we right? For the sake of comparison (and for those who prefer scales), the bakery's original recipe comes after the jump. Which would you rather use?



Eric Ripert and Aldo Sohm's Perfect Pairings


It’s hard to think of a better chef-sommelier team than Eric Ripert and Aldo Sohm, the star cook and wine director, respectively, of NYC’s outstanding restaurant Le Bernardin. They can be very funny (they certainly were when Frank Bruni, with help from Ripert, punked Sohm for an F&W story, "World’s Best Sommelier vs. World’s Worst Customer"). But the two are never less than genius, and so they are in the just-launched Avec Eric: Perfect Pairings web videos. In the short, sweet videos, Ripert challenges Sohm to do things like pick a wine that goes with all the crazy flavors on a charcuterie plate (next week you'll see Sohm rise to that challenge, choosing a light but powerful 2006 Bai Gorri Crianza red).

The videos, a follow up to their popular Get Toasted series (love that name), also preview the Avec Eric: Perfect Pairings wine club inspired by Ripert’s PBS series Avec Eric. Of course, members get a couple bottles of wine a month (Sohm’s picks might include 2007 Pinot Noir Flowers Sonoma Coast, plus his tasting notes.) They also get Ripert’s excellent recipes paired to those wines and web videos that explain that (perfect) pairing. You can drink those wines while watching the Perfect Pairings series and/or while you watch Ripert be a phenomenal judge on Top Chef Season 7 in DC.


Sean Brock Guest-Chefs at Aldea


brock, mendes, boulud

© Courtesy of Aldea
Sean Brock, George Mendes and Daniel Boulud.


I’m a huge fan of George Mendes, the extraordinarily talented chef at NYC’s Aldea restaurant, not only for his fantastically delicious food (like his awesome duck rice) but also for the true camaraderie he shares with his fellow chefs. Mendes has recently been inviting chefs from around the country to take over his kitchen and cook insanely good dinners. It's a wonderful way to exchange ideas and innovations, and a way for diners to experience some seriously good food without having to hop a plane. Sunday night, I was lucky enough to score a seat for a dinner prepared by Southern talent Sean Brock of McCrady’s in Charleston, South Carolina. The scene was like a supercool Sunday supper with guests that included chefs Daniel Boulud, Nate Appleman  and Paul Liebrandt, alongside other food-obsessed New Yorkers.

Highlights included Brock’s molecular take on classic shrimp-and-grits, studded with Benton’s sausage; a ridiculously flavorful 18-month country ham (made from pigs raised on Brock’s farm) wrapped around goat’s-milk cheese and pimento and paired with a shot of bourbon; and the most divine, melt-in-your-mouth pork belly (supplied by Bev Eggleston) served with heirloom beans.

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