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Mouthing Off

By the Editors of Food & Wine Magazine

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Recipes

NYC's Foodie Marathoners

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joe

© Quentin Bacon
Marathoner Joe Bastianich's white bean stew with swiss chard and tomatoes

 

While my colleague Kate Krader is on a permanent sugar high this week from her pre-Halloween candy binge, I am overloading on carbs in preparation for the New York City Marathon. The race takes place this Sunday, the day after Halloween.  This year’s field of 40,000 runners, the largest in history, includes a number of food and wine world stars who’ve been juggling 20-mile training runs with kitchen duties and late-night pasta binges. Mark Bittman, the New York Times Minimalist columnist, has been swapping cooking tips for training tips with America’s fastest woman marathoner, Deena Kastor (rumor has it she’s shopping around a cookbook while in town for the race). F&W Best New Chef 2005 Daniel Humm of NYC’s Eleven Madison Park has been training with a running coach from Kenya to help him beat his insanely fast time from last year.

I’ve been following winemaker and restaurateur Joe Bastianich’s game plan, fueling myself with the complex-carb-heavy recipes he shared with F&W in our October issue and throwing back an occasional beer (for more carbs).

For more pre-marathon carbo-loading recipe ideas, click here.

Chefs

Halloween Countdown: Jelly Bellys

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Shaun Hergatt is a fan of buttered popcorn jelly bellys.

People love fall for the clothes, the changing leaves, the apples. Me, I love it, and this pre-Halloween week in particular, because it’s hard-core candy season (with the best day of the year being the day after Halloween, when it all goes on sale for half price). So let’s devote this whole week to candy, and Halloween-related sweets. And let’s get the party started with Jelly Belly jelly beans. Several chefs are fans, especially of the buttered-popcorn flavor (really). Among the New York City devotees: Shaun Hergatt at the elegant SHO; David Burke of David Burke Townhouse; and Damon Wise of Craft. Like all good chefs, they have ideas for serving the slightly salty jelly bellys. Says Wise, “The buttered popcorn actually complements any of the fruit jelly beans very well. So Jelly Bellys should always be eaten in twos: One buttered popcorn with another flavor.”

Cookbooks

Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution

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Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution

© Hyperion
Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution

Jamie Oliver just keeps getting better. Eons ago I used to scratch my head at the popularity of the Naked Chef and his mumblings about great pasta with peas, but now I'm on the front lines of fandom. Unlike other celebrity chefs, who churn out new cookbooks at the drop of a pan, lately each new Jamie Oliver endeavor has been inspired by a brilliant, truly helpful idea. This time he's teaching residents of unhealthy towns how to cook fast from-scratch dinners. He already did it in the UK, and now he's tackling Huntington, West Virginia. He's calling it Jamie's Food Revolution, which is also the title of his new cookbook. His casual recipe style can be frustrating, but the dishes themselves are great and regularly include a half-dozen inspired variations, like a bright cucumber-and-mint salad with optional yogurt dressing, black olives, fresh red chiles or a little extra-virgin olive oil. For Jamie Oliver recipes from F&W, click here.

Entertaining

Reinventing Dinner Theater

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© Marlo Hunter
Eating Their Words reinvents dinner theater.

 

The dinner-theater concept sounds like a throwback, but director Marlo Hunter is trying to make it hip again with Eating Their Words. Hunter enlists noteworthy writers and actors for an evening of short plays to be performed at a top NYC restaurant. As part of the action, the actors sit at a table and eat a dish; immediately after the performance, the audience is served everything they've just seen the actors enjoy. The next Eating Their Words event, on Monday, October 19, will be at Tocqueville restaurant, with works by Pulitzer Prize finalist Theresa Rebeck and playwrights Jonathan Marc Sherman and Sam Forman. Tocqueville chef-owner Marco Moreira has created a menu to complement the plays, including schmaltz roasted country chicken and a bittersweet chocolate tort. Tickets must be purchased before Sunday, October 18.

Recipes

An Ode to Thomas Keller

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© Kana Okada

November will be a big month for superstar chef Thomas Keller (an F&W Best New Chef 1988): He’ll release Ad Hoc at Home (Artisan) and has plans to open a Beverly Hills outpost of Bouchon. Reasons to honor him now: his birthday this week, plus stellar dishes like his over-the-top mushroom quiche with buttery pastry shell (pictured), BLT fried egg-and-cheese sandwich, and a whole grilled chicken with arugula.

More Incredible Dishes by Our Best New Chefs:
- Our 2009 Best New Chefs’ easiest dishes like Kelly English’s meat pies with spicy buttermilk dip and Paul Liebrandt’s beet-and-red sorrel salad with nutty pistachio sauce

Menus

'Wichcraft's Dinner Menu: A Must-Try

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A pile of pulled pork with wonderfully crusty edges topped with dill pickle slivers: $8. A heaping plate of blistered two-bite-size shishito peppers and sherry vinegar aioli: $6. Why had I only just checked out the cozy Flatiron location of ‘wichcraft, part of Tom Colicchio’s chain of sandwich shops, for dinner last night? Since last May, chef Sisha Ortuzar has been serving simple, delicious smallish plates with Greenmarket ingredients for insanely inexpensive prices. Last night, it was quiet, with only a few tables taken. How could that be, I wondered, when they were serving the last of the summer menu, including a fantastic tarragon-scented brothy dish of cockles and shrimp with late-season cherry tomatoes, corn and a hit of tarragon? Next week, Sisha will introduce a fall menu, and if all goes well, another ‘wichcraft that serves dinner will open in the David Rubenstein Atrium at Lincoln Center in November. I can’t wait for both.

If you’re not getting to New York any time soon, try these 'wichcraft-inspired cocktail party recipes from Tom and Sisha.

 

Chefs

Mario Batali’s Excellent Charity

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The New York City Wine & Food Festival is about to bring a million food stars to town in support of two excellent hunger-fighting organizations: the Food Bank for New York City and Share Our Strength. So it’s more than appropriate that chef/hero Mario Batali is unofficially kicking off the weekend with a charity event of his own. Tonight at Del Posto, Mario will host a supersonic dinner and auction to raise money for the Mario Batali Foundation, whose admirable mission is to make sure kids are well read, well fed and well cared for. The guest list: Mary J Blige, R.E.M., Maggie Gyllenhaal and more special guests yet to be announced. The signature cocktail: Batali Rocks (gin, fresh clementine juice, gold flake garnish), created by über-mixologist Tony Abu Gamin who will be there mixing them at the party. The Batali-made menu: shrimp scampi with soft polenta; roast pork with Parma Lambrusco conserva. The auction items: the subject of tomorrow’s blog.

Menus

DB Bistro's Marathoner's Menu

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© DB Bistro Moderne
First-time marathoner and DB Bistro Moderne chef Olivier Muller

 

Olivier Muller, the chef at Manhattan’s DB Bistro Moderne, is known for indulgent French food, not to mention the decadent short-ribs-and-foie-gras-stuffed DB burger. But as the chef is gearing up for his first marathon, the ING NYC Marathon on November 1, he’s decided to create a special dinner menu for his fellow runners based on his own training diet. “I did a lot of reading about which foods give runners the most energy and I’ve designed my menu around them,” says the novice runner. Chef Muller’s three-course, pre fixe Marathon Menu is available during the month of October and includes dishes like avocado salad, housemade whole wheat-and-chicken ravioli and apple-and-raisin clafoutis. Muller is running the marathon to raise funds for and awareness of Malaria No More, which helps African families protect themselves with mosquito nets, and $10 for each $55 Marathon Menu ordered will be donated to the organization.

Recipes

Pasta Sfoglia Cookbook

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© Sfoglia
Sfoglia's new cookbook shares the restaurant's best recipes.


The NYC Marathon is one month away, and while I’ve been pretty diligent about getting in my long training runs, I’ve been more lackadaisical about my diet. I’ve learned the hard way that late-night Momofuku pork buns and foie gras ice cream are not the best fuel for a 5 a.m. workout. So I’m making an attempt to cook at home more over the next few weeks, and I’ve found myself turning to the new cookbook from Ron and Colleen Suhanosky, the husband-and-wife chef team behind Sfoglia in Nantucket and New York City. Pasta Sfoglia features more than 100 recipes inspired by Sfoglia’s addictive pasta dishes. While I don’t always have time to make pasta from scratch during the week, I do have the luxury of being able to buy exceptional ingredients, like Sfoglia’s bread and house-made goat cheese, at Tutto Sfoglia, the tiny new market adjacent to the Upper East Side restaurant.

Menus

Boston’s Best Ice Cream

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On a recent trip to Boston, I stayed at the adorable Beacon Hill Hotel, tucked away down Charles Street. Its 12 rooms are right above its street-level restaurant, the Bistro, which is run by Barbara Lynch alum Jason Bond. In addition to the excellent complimentary breakfast, which included vanilla pancakes and a thick French toast topped with spiced crème fraîche, chef Bond makes some of the best ice cream in town. My friend Katherine and I tasted our way through flavors like Ligurian Olive Oil and Banana Rum, but the flavor that had us coming back at midnight for a second scoop was the Chocolate Almond–Smoked Sea Salt, with a pudding-like texture and crunchy bits of cocoa nibs and toasted slivered almonds. Bond shared his secret: Valrhona Guanaha chocolate and Norwegian smoked sea salt. Thank goodness ice cream wasn't on the breakfast menu.

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Congratulations to Nicholas Elmi, winner of Top Chef: New Orleans, the 11th season of Bravo's Emmy-Award winning, hit reality series.

Run with chefs and wine experts in the Celebrity Chef 5K and dance all night at Gail Simmons’ Last Bite Dessert Party during the FOOD & WINE Classic in Aspen, June 20-22.